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Heating a garage

Discussion in 'The Antiquated' started by sevenhills1952, Jan 29, 2019.

  1. sevenhills1952
    Joined: Mar 14, 2018
    Posts: 956

    sevenhills1952

    I have a large garage that's in sections.
    One side has a propane furnace, thermostat I keep at 45F, crank it to 60 when I want to work there.
    Other side has an insulated, walled off bathroom/laundry I installed a wall mount propane heater...just the pilot running & elec. water heater keeps it above freezing.
    Other side of wall in main garage is where sink, plumbing is.
    Question is I'm thinking about a ceiling mount heater, leaning toward 240V. I'd wire in a thermostat, just keep at 40 or so. Ideas on Dyna Glow? Electric I'm thinking better than open flame since not far from parts wash tank & chemicals.
    I don't want to spend a lot of money and if it's above freezing would be fine.
    Thanks.

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  2. I'm probably not gonna be of much help. But if I understand you right. You already have a gas furnace. So why can't you just add some duct work to the rooms that need heat. That way you can seperate the system with the ducts. Then just add some return ducts and filters, where needed. You could also add zone dampers, and an additional thermostat if you wanted too. I made mine dual fuel, just to save on the gas bill, and to have A/C. {It's a Heat pump on a 90 plus gas furnace} But if you just add the ducts. That may be your cheapest way to go. Electric {resistant} heat useally cost alot more to operate. I hope someone else knows about the {Dyna Glow}. But I'm with you, I wouldn't want a flame in the work area either. Thanks, and keep warm. ;)Ron.......
     
  3. sevenhills1952
    Joined: Mar 14, 2018
    Posts: 956

    sevenhills1952

    Thanks. It's confusing I know, but the garage is in sections, and the furnace is about 70ft from area I want to heat. There are ducts and vents that stop about 60ft away. It would be a big operation since it's 2 story running ducts across the lower level, as well as I'd rather not have furnace running a lot.
    To me it's easier to simply heat other side.
    Hindsite is 20-20. I should have installed a heater a month ago since it's going to be 10F tonight.
    I may try to simply put a vent from heated bathroom through the wall to this side where pipes are.

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  4. You could wrap the pipes with heat tape/insulation if you are only concerned about them freezing.
     

  5. I heat my house and garage with this outside burner and use coal, or wood but with single digit temps COAL Overhead air handlers in both floors of the garage and a heat exchanger in the central house furnace.
    Rolling Coal.JPG .
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  6. I have electric heat & air in my garage and it has all the duct work through the ceiling, I used sheet rock and painted everything white, I have insulated doors & window and 18" of insulation in the attic.

    The power bill averages around 40 bucks a month, I stay comfortable on the hottest or coldest days.

    With that said, A friend of mine installed a wall hanger heat & air unit similar to that in a motel room and saved a lot by not having to run all the insulated duct work in the ceiling, if I was to do it again I would go this route. HRP
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  7. HuskerNation
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 337

    HuskerNation

    I have around 1100sqft of garage/shop attached to the house & it’s insulated. I have it heated by a 75k BTU garage heater hung from the ceiling. It’s great & I keep it at 60 degrees or higher all winter long here in Montana, it’s -5 degrees outside right now. I also use a couple of the electric radiator heaters as an additional heat source, primarily because I get tired of how loud the furnace actually is when blowing air. Since summer humidity isn’t an issue I don’t need an A/C unit here but if I did live back in high humidity I would just buy a 96% efficient house furnace & A/C system install it with ductwork above the ceiling (attic area).

    I think a mini-split system (hotel type) is an easy & smart option. However, my dream setup would be a heated floor system. It’s always coldest at the floor & seems I’m always doing something on the floor. Plus I could lay under the car & sneak a nap in without my wife finding me!


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    warhorseracing likes this.
  8. sevenhills1952
    Joined: Mar 14, 2018
    Posts: 956

    sevenhills1952

    My Mom still lives in her home Granddad (who lived in large house next door on farm) and Dad built in 1949. The floor is concrete slab, and they took what must have been 100s of feet of 1/2" (or 3/4") copper tubing and elbows within the concrete. Still has the original linoleum tile over it. Off of porch is the furnace room we called it, a boiler and circulator pump, then radiators for upstairs bedrooms and bath.
    Never any leaks or trouble all these 70 years!
    We were there last night. It's quiet of course, interesting to walk on warm floors.

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  9. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,441

    A Boner
    Member

    How old is your garage?
     
  10. Shamus
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,250

    Shamus
    Member
    from NC

    IMG_2708.JPG IMG_2705.JPG IMG_1353.jpg
    32 years. Built by soldiers attending pre-retirement carpenter course, brick work & electric by active duty soldiers on week-ends. Only "pro" used was for footing. Have added an addition & a couple of car ports. IMG_2708.JPG IMG_2705.JPG IMG_1353.jpg
     
  11. Shamus
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,250

    Shamus
    Member
    from NC

    View attachment 4195970 View attachment 4195982 View attachment 4195994
    32 years. Built by soldiers attending pre-retirement carpenter course, brick work & electric by active duty soldiers on week-ends. Only "pro" used was for footing. Have added an addition & a couple of car ports. View attachment 4195970 View attachment 4195982 View attachment 4195994 View attachment 4195970 View attachment 4195982 View attachment 4195994 View attachment 4195970 View attachment 4195982 View attachment 4195994
     

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