Projects ReBuild Of my 1928 Model A Tudor.

Great build and great thread, Cliff.
Got any pictures of the back of the car, especially the taillight mounts?

 

Coming up soon.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

Looks great. Love the color and you nailed it with the original look of the nickel grill shell.

 

Love this! I'll be working on mine just south of you in Stratford.

~ Carl

 

Evening all,
Hope everyone is staying warm, North so much here in the NE corner and others areas of the country.

Some things to touch on that were part of the first build people asked about. The headlamps are stock Model A lamp assemblies and the tail lamps are repop ones.

The housings I had were nice and I wanted something for decent lighting, brighter than holding a candle out the window. Since I didn't have one reflector and the other was kinda crap I sprang for the Snyders H4 reflector kit, Came with parking lamps, signals and nice bright, modern H4 bulbs.

The tail lamps were knock off ones because they were cheap at the swap meet out of another guys pile, new, complete and working. Had the "STOP" lens in them, I added some LED bulbs, Look brighter than the original 1156 bulb. I mounted the tail lamps in the original Model A fender bolt holes. Worked fine.

The tail lamps were relocated on the rebuild. No holes in the body any more and wanted a different look.

Cliff Ramsdell
On the rebuild I made new brackets and moved the lamps. They are tilted up and use LED lamps for the stop lamps.

 

It takes discipline to use simple old Ford parts in order to retain the spirit of an old hot rod.
I think you're nailing it, Cliff.

 

I worked on the Dash next. I figured it would be easier to get this now then once the seat was installed.

Last build I didn't run the stock tank and in order to free up some space in the back for a seat for the grand kids I went with a stock tank assembly. The issue now was going to be the speedometer and the cable, it sticks out pretty far and is going to run right into the tank. Positioning it so it was centered didn't work, still too deep. 90 degree adapter, still no go.

Well, Lets get the layout going and then just wing it, it will all come together.

Cliff Ramsdell

The original dash lay out from the first build. Dash was from an unknown truck and came with the 80 MPH speedometer and fuel gauge. I added the remaining gauges, oil and charging system lights and high beam indicator. The headlamp switch is a 4 position, Off, park, low and high. I liked this and it saved wiring in a foot pedal for the high/low beams.



With the stock fuel tank there was no need to spend money on the stock gauge since it would be covered up. My son whipped this plug up on his lathe, fits right in with the lock ring and gaskets, thanks buddy.


The original dash rail looked good except some fiberglass repairs from the past, how bad can it be?? YIKES, bad. Made some patches for the big holes and plug welded the small stuff, good to go.

I cut a piece of that sheet metal i bought and used to fix everything else so far and ran it through the bead roller at the bottom. Kinda like a 32ish style.



So, I stripped the old dash and used it as a template on a sheet of .110" steel I had. I liked the shape and it afforded me a place to put the ignition switch, headlamp switch and choke.


The layout of gauges, A hole saw wasn't going to make it so I borrowed a set of carbide bits, these things are super nice and cut really nice.

Mocked up and I like it. Dash rail all fixed at this time. Mocked up in the car and then the speedometer is now mounted on the steering column. This layout allowed the cable to run down the column and out. I just bought a tach mounting cup and drilled a hole through the back of it.

New coat of black wrinkle, gauges installed along with the warning lights.


The new layout is great. Works great and tank clearance is no issue now with the speedometer moved to the Steering column.

 

Just read the thread , Cliff ! Fantastic rebuild, love everything you have done. Car looks fantastic !


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Looks slick. Really like the contrast on the color of the wood and the paint colors.

Do you have a gas gauge now? I can’t quite tell, just curious how you’d make a float etc if you did away with the stock stuff.

 

Nice work on the dash - and the whole car!

 

Tim,
I’m working on a gauge now. I’ll have some pictures as that comes along but in the mean time I have been using a paint stick

Cliff Ramsdell

 

Cliff, I just spent the last hour reading this thread! Car looks awesome, you're doing great work on it! Thanks for taking the extra time to post in depth pictures and explanation. It will help me since I'm slowly working on a 30 Tudor.
Paul

 

mikie likes it !
but IMO only,
I see the dashboard was cut for gauge clearance, might need to patch some of the lower cutout...
I think the lower cluster corners should be a closer radius to the bead along the bottom of the dashboard...
giving it that "I belong here" look... not being a jerk... just what I see...

 

Sloppy,
The gauge panel covers the dash cut out. It was trimmed to fit around things and is completely covered.

So, with that being said, maybe I don’t follow what your saying.

I’ll listen to everything even though the car is mostly done and running and driving.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

I think he’s looking at the photo of it before the new panel was painted. In looks like there are some funky cuts/ corners. I noticed it as well but they looked to have disappeared when it got painted so I figured it was was either a funny photo or an un finished photo before paint.

And I look forward to the float and sender tech! I drove mine a loooooong time with a fuel gauge in the dash and wired to everything but power lol one in planned stop on an off ramp and I wired it to power that night ha

 

Oh boy... didn't know it was driving... I wouldn't change anything...

 

Tim,
I have some pictures at home for my idea of a fuel gauge. It may not be for all but it should work.

On the first build I used known fuel mileage to determine distance on a tank, we’ll see.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

I really like the idea for mounting the speedo. I like your choice of color for the car, too. Three inch chop is right on the money!

 

Hard to beat the paint stick, especially with that tank. I also use the 'every 100 miles' method!

 

Wow Cliff,
Great job. I can’t wait to start mine! You are giving me/us so much inspiration! Photos are so important along the way to help others. Thank you for taking the time...

 

No problem. Got it back on the road for the hot rod fallout back in October.

I’m still finishing things up that I wanted done.

Cliff Ramsdell

 

No doubt about it! This build is as true to the spirit of authentic hot rodding as any that I've seen in a long time.

 

Rusty,
Don’t know what to say but thanks a lot, it means a lot to me.

When I set out to build the car I decided what “I” wanted in a car and I’m glad others have enjoyed the project too.

My real reason for posting the build was to pay it forward, as they say for all the great info I gathered here on the HAMB. My hats off to @Ryan for providing us all with an amazing place to gather and follow others and then show off what we have done too.

Thanks again,
Cliff Ramsdell

 

Morning all,
Well, the car is moving along nicely. The dash came out nicely and the speedometer position will work. Seating in next. I went back to a stock model A tank so I could add room for a rear seat so more than one grandson (three at this time) could ride and both me and my wife could go too.

The first build had a 2nd gen Dodge Minivan seat in there. It had a fixed back but had built in child seats with a 5 point harness. worked great but no access to the back. I bought a nice pair of 3rd gen Dodge minivan seats, a nice grey pair and the added benefit is a matched set and the front seat back will fold flat allowing access to the back seat.

So, lets lay these things out and figure out how they will fit into the car.

Cliff Ramsdell

I used some lumber to mock up seating position and height front and rear to give some nice comfort and back support, you know us old guys.
The steel frame is 3/16" flat stock and 3/16" square tube. I used the stock seat fasteners and made my mounting even side to side in the car.


There is about 5" in the front and about 1 1/2" in the back. I'm thinking room for a small heater in the middle, we'll see.



The rear seat had the kick up for the frame in there along with the rear body mounting. I made a steel perimeter frame that has provisions for mounting the whole seat base assembly.

The rear seat from the minivan is just too wide with all the reclining hardware on them so I pulled everything off, made two flat steel plates (.140") and drilled them to match the bolt pattern of the original hardware and included a seat angle of 103 degrees. This placed the base just right and the seat back at the body with clearance for trim. I can fit my 6' 2" 250lb carcass in the back between the seats and ride with reasonable comfort and headroom.

With the base stained (same color as the top and floor, same but different outcome) the seat was bolted to the assembly and the whole thing was installed into the car. Because the car was painted at this time and the top wood installed my two sons helped me out.


Mounted and new seat belts for all seating positions.



Well, another part of the puzzle in place. Whats next, i don't know since the thread is catching up to where the car is now.

 

Really Nice work on the seats Cliff. Color is good with the exterior color also.

Thanks,

jim

 

Thanks Jim. Hows the roadster moving along?

Cliff Ramsdell

 

Hi Cliff,
Project parts gathering is not moving. I just haven't had the time to get into the shop

 

Good ideas there, how’s it look with the front seat leaned forward? Just curious about what space you have to pass threw to get into the back.

 

Tim,
I'll get some pictures and post them. I can do it, since I have been working on the rear glass this past week.

Cliff Ramsdell