Hot Rods SBC/T5 Problems, any suggestions

Both sides are there, I could take a farther pic if needed but I took pics of both sides

 

I wonder if the thickness of the Ford disc is more than the chevy disc for that application. If the Ford is thicker, then the fingers will pull down farther on the pressure plate causing more clearance between it and the T/O brg. This may be something to consider when trying to get a good release/engage point in the pedal travel. I set all of mine up with a Hays setup and it proved to be more pedal pressure was needed than the old knee liked, so I put another PP and disc in it. Pedal pressure is ok now, but the release is to close to the top. I have increased the brg. to PP clearance but weather has prevented a test drive. I wish I would have measured the difference between the two disc before bolting it all up. Not wanting to hijack the thread, just some food for thought. I agree with putting the bell on and having a look at fork angle and clearance in the slot. D

 

thanks for the info Dennis, I had to use a ford disc bc it had ford spines on it, but if I have a super sloppy pedal or real high or low grab I will look into a thinner one

 

Just keep dickin' with it and it will all come together. Be sure and write the part numbers of what you end up with down somewhere, LOL. D

 

Haha that's my go to method, hence my problems, been s.w.a.g ing it a little to much (scientific wild ass guess)

 

Isn't this Hot Rodding shit FUN!!! L.O.L!!!

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Don't drink beer , dentist tell you about a dry socket ? Trying to save you some pain !!BTDT. Ok now I see the top side , definitely a flat finger . TO above should be the right one

 

Ok great, hopefully it will get here soon, no beer?! They asked if I smoke I said no and they said nothing else now I’m worried hah


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Ha! Just listen to your self! The doctors will have you dead and buried by Sun up! LOL!!!

 

I'm gonna say no, in the early 70's I bought a GM pattern B/W T-10 that had been put together for drag racing, it had a Ford T-10 high nickel input shaft which required the matching Ford clutch disc, it never knew the difference.

 

I would use a mast cyl bore size identical to slave cyl bore size. I think Boryca had a good suggestion to make sure crankshaft & trans input shaft are concentric, also make sure crankshaft & input shaft are exactly on the same plane, no sag or humpback between crank& input shaft. How did you drill out the pilot brg hole in the crank, it kind of scares me if you used a portable drill rather than removing the crank& drilling it in a lathe. Once had a similar engagement problem, fixed it completely by moving adapter plate so crankshaft& input shaft were concentric( with less than .004" runout) Good luck. Greg

 

Hate to scare you speedshifter, I do not have a lathe, and did use a hand drill and slowly opened up the stock hole, I started it and checked for some obvious off center issues, but will find out once I get up to speed haha. It still has the stock clutch/master, and I will have to measure the slave and see if they match. Am planning on swapping to disc once I square everything away but for now its the stock setup

 

Did you ever get this sorted out? D

 

Sorry Dennis, Haven't been on in a while. Ordered a new tob, longer style, checked clutch fork movement with the tranny out and nothing looked out of place, put it back together and had the same problem. Snowed the next day and waiting on it to thaw out and see what the hell is going on bc it's super aggravating at this point

 

I've been taking it slow lately myself, have done some minor work on the Ford, caught a cold this week. All we need is a break and you'll be back working on it.

 

Agreed, well at this point I’m kind of scratching my head, the clutch fork is throwing all the way to the end of the bellhousing before it would hit, the master is bled, longer tob, and tranny bolted up flush so it would appear that everything is seated correctly, will have to pull the tranny again, and video the clutch movement and post it. Other than the adjustable pivot ball or a clearance issues of something I am missing I really don’t have many other ideas, tob is sliding nice on the bearing retainer, greased that and the pivot. Banging my head in a wall and googling turbo 350’s unfortunately haha


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Are you absolutely sure that the input shaft isn't bottoming out in the crank at the pilot bushing? If it was an S-10 T5 you have to do a bit of trimming on the end of the input shaft. If it is the transmission will still keep spinning even if the clutch is working. I'm not familiar with the combination you have (Ford splines), so I'm asking.

I'm grasping at straws here, but???

 

If the clutch is releasing completely, that pretty leaves binding of the input shaft as the only culprit. If the input shaft does not stop spinning, then the clutch might as well be not releasing. Input shaft too long? Pilot bearing binding on input shaft? I see this evening that Nostrebor and I were typing at the same time.

 

Nostrebor, the only reason I’m fairly certain that it’s not bottoming out is bc I got the adapter to mate the ford t5 from a fellow hamber (inliner) and he told me that it gives you the clearance needed, and pretty sure his lathe is more accurate than my drill haha, I spoke w him last week actually and double checked that it wouldn’t bottom out and he seemed pretty confident it would not.

I unfortunately think your right about input shaft binding at this point, I could raise/lower the tail of the tranny by shimming the rear mount, but not sure if that would help much, other than that I might have it binding on the pilot bearing. If I take the driveshaft out and have the clutch pressed and cannot turn the tail of the tranny that would pretty much tell me it’s binding right?


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Assuming everything else you have done releases the clutch disk from between the pressure plate and the flywheel, you are correct. You should be able to roll the truck in gear with the clutch depressed, or turn the tail shaft if the rear wheel are elevated/the driveshaft is loose.

 

Ok I’ll try it this weekend and see what happens, thanks for all the help everyone I really appreciate it


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Maybe try loosen the tranny bolts and pull the trans back from the bell. Even space it with washers to see if it lets the driveshaft turn. This would let you see if the input is binding because it is too far into the pilot. If so, it would give you an idea of how much needs to be trimmed from the input shaft. or trans. brg. retainer. D

 

Thanks Dennis will do, how far is a good starting distance ?


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It does sound like a bind. How much motion do you have at the fork itself? Mine is close to 1" with a stock '55 Chevy bellhousing, forged truck fork and hydraulic clutch.

 

Good question. I have never had to do this as my Muncie's never gave me a fit like you are having. I would start off with maybe three flat washers and go from there. Wish I could be of more help. D

 

If you get to the point where you’re done with the T5 you could install a cheap Craigslist Turbo 350 and love life again.

I did that once and it worked great.

 

That’s where I’m at fordor haha, was on monster tranny website and jegs,they have a th350 kit w converter kickdown cable and everything for 1400,if spacin it doesn’t do it I’m going to order it tomorrow


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Go to Harbor freight and get a body shim kit,they are alignment shims and are slotted

 

Swap has been done many times,stick with it.

 

Ok I’ll try the body shims, thanks for the tip sdluck


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