Projects '22 T BOBTAIL Distraction

For as long as I can remember I've had a T chassis project, bit by bit I'd collect the bits and for some reason part with it as soon as it became a roller. Last weekend I collected the last missing link for a Bob Tail project, a pair of 26-27 rear axles. This isn't a build thread, just a parts collection, something to do when I'm not making progress on the Roadster or Steelback. Once the Chevy kickups get cut to shape and attached to the frame it will become another build, and take up more room. Bob

 

Well, the '39 Ford pickup project was sold, and I'm moving stuff around in the basement, the Bob Tail frame was sort of in the way, and I found the firewall under some stuff. Simple goal, install the rear kickups, add a set back front crossmember, and drill the holes to set the firewall back. Having a finished frame in primer hanging on the wall or ceiling would be a good thing.

 

That's what I'm after, bare bones 1920's T Dirt Track car. I've got all the bits except for wire wheels & hubs.

 

Ok my friend you done drug me in. I have a feeling that this one is going to get interesting if we can keep you somewhat on task.

 

I've got two pieces from another firewall that will be used to fix the one on the chassis. I needed to scribe a line to guide the saw cut and rummaged through the top draw of my tool box looking for a 5/8 wide piece of stock. Found my Dad's name tag from when he was a cop in town back in the early 1960's. Nice to know he is still helping even though he's been gone for 35 years. Bob

 

So many cool projects You need to finish something !!! lol

 

Great day today, pulled out the front end parts. So glad the see the Chevy spindles, I thought I'd sold them.

 

From the Inland Emperors East/West flathead reliability run in 2013

 

I hope you noticed what's in the backround. Like the Brothers said, some day all those Ford owners will want to drive a real car.

 

I like it! I'm doing the same thing but a late 40s version.

 

That is why my 1912 Ford is so special, DB made most of the parts. The bronze underslung brackets need a perch bolt hole drilled in them. Something a retired guy with a Bridgeport could do. Bob

 

The Chevy kickups will get cut to match the T frame width If anyone has a good front crossmember I need to upgrade the one I have. Nice straight no rust pits id what I'm looking for. Bob

 

If I'm going to copy, might as well have the best to copy from. Bob

 

I see you are using Laurel style brackets. Have you found a source for bolts to replace the Ford perches? I am oing something similar and have not found a source yet. Without checking my notes I believe the bolt size to be 11/16 which is not available. Have you sourced a radiator yet? If so what?

 

The front underslung brackets are ones I had cast 35+ years ago using original ROOF brackets. If I can't find bolts off the shelf I'll turn down a larger size and rethread them.

Bob

 

It would be interesting to see if there is a difference between Laurel and Roof brackets as I always thought that Laurel worked more on the chassis and Roof on the engines. I do have a Roof head (8V) that in time I hope to actually reproduce.

 

I just posted a Roof Cyclone head (not V-8) in the unusual Engines thread. Post 917

 

Chevy spindles? Do tell. I have the bare remains of a 40's era T based midget that I was wondering what to use for the front brakes.

 

Yup, early Chevy ('27 and earlier) spindles fit the T axle (with a little reaming, if I'm correct?) and give you an extra 1/2" drop over '26/'27 T spindles

 

Thanks! I've often wondered what year the Chevy spindles were. I think I'll replace the worn ball on the steering arm with a Ford ball that has a taper and nut to secure it in place.

 

Bob, I don't know if the 490 spindles will work, but '24-27 certainly will- 1928 was the first year for front brakes for Chevrolet.

 

Thanks Mac, Just found these photos while looking for something else, sort of a good omen, it is the engine I'll put in the Bob Tail once it is gone through. It powered an ice cutting rig, found it in Westport Ct. in a garage one house behind one on the coast of Long Island Sound, back in 1997. It got flooded, note the high water line on the flywheel.

Bob

 

Bob...The Dayton Wheels (et al, truly 'vintage') have intrigued me for years.
There was an elderly man down the side street from my Grandmother's that had an early dirt car, 'bobtail' type. Wheels were 3" wide at rims, and tall: 18"-20", multi-spoked, small hubs. (looked like the 40 spoke motor wheels mid-to-late '20s, non Ford)
He told me the name of the mfr., can't remember...but it wasn't anything 'common'...
I have a nice old mid-'20s DB I beam, and some 'T' stuff. Been threatening to throw it together, but wheels are a challenge. (have V8 wire wheels, but want something earlier)

 

Are you sure it's not Bob Tale?

 

Could be, and you can become part of it, I'm gathering up a small pile of future machine work.

Bob

 

Bob, you have the coolest stuff.

 

Thanks and if I keep wires away from it the chance of fires is fairly slim.

 

Nothing major, just stripping the paint off the kickups, I like working with clean bare metal. Still a lot of crap in the basement so a folding ironing table makes for a good work bench. It is a good one all metal Made in Italy.

Bob

 

Hey, Bob;
Waiting patiently for the detailed how-to on Wiring-a-BobTail... .
Lets, see: all mech gauges, magneto for the mill, hand-crank starting, acetylene headlights n taillights. Yup, about 3 wires, & 4 plug wires. . Go Cat, GO!.
Marcus...

 

I really don't want to think about that crap, it will kill any motivation . Static display in the goal, but 4 plug wires and a kill switch wire should do it if someone down the road wants to fire it up. I'll leave the ring gear on if someone wants a self starting fire. Bob