Cross steer. I have a Vega box, going to so cal for a drag link with tie rods. I would like to use a bel air steering wheel but there huge. 18” seems bulky getting in an out of the car.
Harbor freight has an inexpensive mig cart for $39 Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
im looking for a steering column. 32" is too long, the column would hit the heads or be too close when i sit. also because of the dash hangs low, the column is pushed down which brings the u-joint higher to the head. i think maybe a tilt column would be comfortable. my question is why isnt there key in column options, at least not many in the 28-30" length?
Sometimes it is best to mock up the steering and motor placement at the same time, that way if you have to move the motor an inch you can do it. You should be able to cut the column down some, have you looked at that? Try to rethink the key in column thing, far cooler to have the key on the dash.
Here is your steering column with Tilt and Key: https://www.ididitinc.com/i-2504881...-id-classic-ignition-black-powder-coated.html
i would really hate to drill into my dash, i like how clean it came out. i have the motor in for mock up. but i cant move it forward anymore. ive looked into cutting a column vrs a ready to install. weighing the cost. and maybe key in dash.
Hot rod coupe ! For the steering wheel I used a burr-bit plugged in my wizzer… cut away the back [lower] edge of the '37 banjo wheel's aluminum hub... cut / ground it till it matched the diameter of the speedway quick release hub... painted, it flowed with the Q/R hub... drill the [3] needed holes under the horn button to screw the wheel to the threaded Q/R hub... bingo . this may work with the OEM steering wheels of your liking.. pic later if needed, [raining hard].
POR-15 is UV sensitive, don't use it on anything that will see sunlight (like wheels) or it won't stay looking good for long. They also make POR15 TopCoat which is UV safe.
Your right, I forgot about that, there’s a clear top coat to use to prolong the paint. Different than the top coat I put on the frame.
Greetings Omarsvette!...not to beat a dead horse but I am curious what you are looking to change in your ride quality with the vertical coilovers?...also if you do see an ( in my humble opinion unexpected) improved ride quality but a lack of body roll control you could add a rear " antirool" bar ( some call it a sway bar) ...also I LOVE your body modifications, dash is ROCKIN!
oh that horse has died and ressurected and has become a zombie on this post. if you go to instagram under onalleight or my name omar aguila, you can see some pics of my last build. 31 ford truck on A chassis with coilovers and ladder bars. now that ride was very stiff and bumpy. the coilovers were set at 25deg angle and maybe 195lbs coilover. on turns it was great but i could feel the road alot. the tires were cooper cobra 265-60-15ish? brand new, i would even lower the air pressure. now i understand why angle coilovers are ideal. actually shocks should be next to the wheel hub then attached to frame for maximum use of shock. but with design of chassis they get tilted in. since we dont have that option in our cars, the shocks end up inside the frame. my thought is maybe itll be softer vertical . currently the body rocks up and down and sideways normal like the springs are working.. not hitting the wheel or ladders binding. but ill no for sure when i hit the road. its going to be a trial thing. maybe i had too stiff spring in my truck or i set something up wrong or whatever. but i could always tilt them in my coupe if something goes wrong. has anyone here actually run vertical coilovers with a ladders on a model A? not what you heard or what your buddy did or read but real life experience? i agree with your post, im 50/50 it will improve, i do think angle with lighter coilover might better and if it is unexpectedly better but with bodyroll, then i could add a sway bar..........or just fix the damm coilovers
Right that’s my thought. At vertical the spring is working at 100%. The more you tilt, the less effective it is. Which is why you go for a stiffer spring. Which I did in MY truck.
1)The fact that the coilovers are straight up and down will disallow any natural body roll control that a coilovers installed at an angle have-your post gimpy 2)but a lack of body roll control - is king fords post one is saying the body is supposed to roll while the other is saying it’s not. Some others are saying the shocks won’t work on turns. I thought the body would be stiff but like I said the shocks react when you shake the body around. That’s why gimpy, I ask if you have ever ran vertical shock, experience as to what the car does.
You are totally misunderstanding these comments. He and I have said exactly the same thing. We both have said that coil-overs mounted straight up and down to not have the built in body roll control that tilted ones do. As for what I have run, I don't run vertical coil overs on anything but a dedicated drag-race-only car, that is not expected to turn, or be operated on a public road. Most of those also have an adjustable anti sway bar, as well. As for what my experience is, I am a Senior Automotive Engineer at a little car company known as General Motors. I build powertrain, control, and suspension systems.
Vertically mounted shocks will control suspension movement, but on a street rod, most shock manufacturers recommend mounting shocks at a slight angle (viewed from the front or rear). This increases handling by limiting side to side movement, which will decrease body roll during cornering. On most street rod applications a mounted angle of 15-25 degrees is preferable for great handling This is the other part of your article. And I get it, especially the closer together the shocks are mounted the more body roll. Now look at my set up, and there’s a Panhard bar which limits sideways chassis movement. Now think of this, 90%of driving is a straight line, whatever turns there are, are taken at a very low speed. I’m not squealing tires hear. I’m not pulling Gs and neither is anyone else on this forum with these cars. I wanna control suspension in a straight line where most of my driving is. Ever drive a tri five Chevy and experience there bodyroll? But very nice straight. Or a C3corvette which has very impressive suspension, and they still experience bodyroll without a sway bar (they have vertical shocks with transvers spring). I think My setup will have very little sideways movement. Especially with the weight difference between the other examples. Im trying to think logically here. And how I plan to use this car. Do you honestly think my ride will suck or break with vertical coilovers given what I said and how I plan to drive, do you think I’m going to have excessively high body roll or the chassis is going to fishtail making turns at say 5mph?
Your right both of you said the same thing, I missed read because I was debating with you instead of enjoying building my Hemi coupe.
A Tri-5 Chevy has IFS, which makes for a different CG/roll/sway dynamic, so that does not apply. Your Corvette example is specious. That is not the same suspension setup, in any way. You are under no obligation to either listen to me, or build a car that could handle as well as it should. That is all on you. If it handles poorly, you, and the new owner get to live with that. Several people who know of what they speak came here and gave you sound advice. You discarded it. I could bring a few more people to the thread that know even more that I do, but I doubt it would help. I have built a couple hundred cars for happy customers. It work, I had a hand in about 300,000 more. No complaints there either.