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Projects 49 F1 Build-The Shop Truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hot Rod Brando, Jan 22, 2019.

  1. Well, I finally got around to starting on my F1 project. I acquired the truck about 2 years ago from a fellow HAMBer (it was for sale on here). Came from North Dakota. While it’s got its fare share of farm dents, the typical fender rust is minimal and the cab has literally one hole the size of a dime in the corner. That’s it. It’s also 99% complete with the exception of a tailgate. It looks like I will be able to salvage all of the original sheet metal. I’ll be fabricating some patches to fix the fender spots and hitting other parts with a 10 lb sledge to get them back to straight.

    Here’s the plan:

    289, healthy but not crazy, already on the stand waiting to go in. Top loader 4spd conveyed to top shift with a Jeep shifter. Original front axle, lowered. 8.8 out back. Got a set of mint original spotlights to go along with the original Fulton visor that’s on it. Ordered 3 sides of buffalo saddle leather for the bench seat. Converting to power steering using a Mid Fifty’s conversion kit. Base/clear Red... Spent last weekend taking the truck apart. Getting the front sheet metal apart kicked my butt, it was 24 degrees out when I did that, 50+ over the weekend. What I learned is just how ridiculously solid and in good shape the truck is. Follow along if ya want. Just waiting for a friend to stop by with his crane truck to yank the cab off...
    [​IMG][​IMG] IMG_0595.JPG IMG_0598.JPG IMG_0607.JPG IMG_0608.JPG IMG_0609.JPG IMG_0610.JPG IMG_0611.JPG IMG_0616.JPG IMG_0618.JPG IMG_0613.JPG IMG_0620.JPG IMG_0621.JPG IMG_0622.JPG IMG_0623.JPG


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  2. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,418

    catdad49
    Member

    Solid old truck, great start!
     
    Hot Rod Brando likes this.
  3. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,067

    Dirk35
    Member

    Good looking truck. You aren't kidding about how solid it is! That rust-out below the headlights is actually an easy fix once you get into it. You'll need to shrink the metal on the gravel pan after you pound those dents out, but that's a pretty straight forward repair. You'll also likely need to replace some metal on the front fenders where that inner brace collects mud and they rust out between the upper and lower fender piece.

    For the spot lights, I read it somewhere that it was either a factory option, or a dealer option to have a single spotlight on the driver side. Pretty sure it was a factory option for Farm Trucks, but I couldn't find it with a quick google search.

    Here is a pic of my 1949. It's a 1949 that I replaced the front fenders, hood, and grill with a 1951 front clip. I actually traded them after I had completed all of the rust repair on my original front clip because I liked the look of the 51 grill better. 1949 Ford PU Front Fender 3.JPG
     
  4. Awesome truck! Yea I already started tracing patterns to make the fender patches. I’ve also got one of those nifty shrinking discs and will hit that gravel pan (and lots of other spots) once I get it close. I didn’t want to spend like $150 for a new one when this just needed to get hammered a lot! Thanks for the comments!
    Brando


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  5. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

    Sounds like a great Hot Rod truck project.
     
    Hot Rod Brando likes this.
  6. JUNK ROD
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 418

    JUNK ROD
    Member

    Nice truck, I love those F1, Ill be following the progress!! Rear suspension looks weird, with some coil spirngs? Farmers modification ?lol
     
  7. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    They're real easy to take apart.;)
    I see you have other stuff in the garage, hopefully those are all done. It's real easy to get project ...overload.

    The 289 will sit where the flathead does. You can even leave the flathead mount members. Mine are notched for the fuel lines. There is a smaller diameter fuel pump available. On mine I use a short oil filter... it fits well. My SBF engine is mounted on the original flathead mounts.
    Personally I think the crossmember mount is better.

    There is a way to retain the twist clutch but it requires some adapters. IE....SBF 6 bolt to Early Ford (30s -52) 3 speed top loader bellhousing plus a hogs head from early 3 speed to '60s toploader - t5. This allows the use of the twist clutch. Those parts are out there. Otherwise you'll have to come up with your own under the floor clutch linkage.

    A period option would be Ansen swing pedals using Chevy truck Master/clutch combo and run a hydro clutch. There is also an Ansen swing pedal kit that uses a brake and a clutch master.
     
    Hot Rod Brando likes this.
  8. Thanks for the tips! My ‘53 Merc gasser is done, that’s on the lift in the background. Next to the truck is a ‘64 Comet vert that I’m doing for my wife so right now it’s just the truck.

    Laying on the ground staring at the clutch linkage I think I figured it out. I’m going to mount a hydraulic cylinder in front. I’ll fab up a stiff mounting plate and gussets so it doesn’t flex. I had to do something similar on the ‘53 Merc.

    Did you have a lot of modification to the trans cross member? I was measuring the SBF bell housing and trans length (to the mount) and it looks to be about 3” longer. Curious what you did there...

    Thanks!


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  9. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Right now I'm running a 1968 302 mounted to the original 1950 top loader/top shift 3 speed. From the Bellhousing back it's still 1950.
    I do know a C4 will fit with the original transmission mount modified along with the later transmission mount, using components of both.. The short tail (truck) 3.03 60s toploader 3 speed can be mounted in the same fashion. AODs and C6s require notching or custom fabrication at the transmission crossmember since the "body " of these are too large to clear.
    Most toploader 4 speeds have a long tail so that means you may not be able to use the original mount location. You may be able to use a tube crossmember, a crossmember out of a 60's car or truck or make your own. Thus you leave the 1950 crossmember in place and the transmission mounts to a new crossmember behind it. Or....there may be enough room to fabricate a bracket off the 50 crossmember..... Now that I think about it the long tail and short tail transmissions may mount at the same spot...if so you are good.
    What ever you do you want it solid.
    A 9inch rear from a F100 to 1972 is a bolt on. 73 up is wider. The advantage of a 9inch is the 5x 5.5 stock wheel pattern that Ford used on trucks from 1928 to 1996 1/2.
    The original F1 Dana 40 in mine has done fine.
     
  10. ...I really like the F-1's,..yours looks really solid,...sounds like a great plan you have,...here's mine I put together to sell originally but I've been drivin it for almost 6 years now, can't let it go and even ruff around the edges, people really like it....built it from 4-5 trucks pieced together...
    48 dirt road 003.jpg
     
  11. chopndrop
    Joined: Feb 8, 2005
    Posts: 715

    chopndrop
    Member

    Do you have any pictures of your engine installation? I have a 50 I'd planned to drop a sbf in one day, and I'd like to cut out the least amount as possible
     
  12. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,547

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    The 48 I had , I drove the wheels off it . 302 roller with a carb, C4 , 9in from a 66 F100, Toyota power steering box, dropped axle , power brakes , Mustang Radiator . The mounts I used where the flathead type biscuits , welded a piece on C channel and a gusset to the frame and done , tube trans crossmember. You will be amazed at how well the 9 inch fits the F1 .Probably the best fun factor in a car or truck I have had in many a year . I sold it to build my Power Wagon because it was a 4x4 . If I had to do it over again I would be driving a 48 4x4 F1 .
     
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  13. The one thing I do know is that C4's, all 60's top loader 4spd and 3spd share the exact same mounting position. There are different tail shaft lengths but the mount is in the same place... I'll bolt the engine and trans together and see how things look...
     
  14. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,547

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    My trans mountbwas at same location of OEM trans . But I removed OEM pedals and crossmember , good ModelA stuff . Steering box and column same stuff . I used 76 Pickup Pedal support and silghtly modified pedal to mount the pedal overhead and used booster from same .
     
  15. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    My Disclaimer...
    The following are photographs of a old dirty ass truck. Some of this was done decades ago like the fabrication of the mounts. The engine was overhauled by me in 2001 and I'm having a hard time believing that was nearly 20 years ago. Some of the quick fixes done had a way of becoming permanent. That's what happens when you work two jobs and raise a family.....I would do it different, neater now... so consider these before photos...

    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr

    It's ugly and it was done decades ago. What they did was copy the " 1960's Hurst style engine swap mounts for Early Ford V8 cars. Since front cradle mount is out of the question on a SBF, Hurst mounts use the heads.
    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
    Greasy side down...:rolleyes:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr


    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
    The Lady in waiting...;)

    First off let me say that I truly love a Small Block Ford...The Fairlane V8, The Challenger..called by many the Windsor. Although 221's to 5.0s are technically not Windsors...There's only one...the 351W. They are an absolute pleasure to work on. They don't seem to have the pain in the ass designed into them like Chevrolets do.:p

    I really like F1s. They're literally the First and Last.
    The First F series.....The last of the Early V8s.
    53's don't count as they have updated transmissions and do not use eared water pumps.

    I have great affection for both the SBF and the F1. With that said I believe there are much better engine choices for the F1 than any flavor of SBF.
    So, here's my list of engines retaining the original Ford V8ness of the F1.
    #1 by far...
    The Cadillac 331.[​IMG]
    It fits. Exhaust no problem even the stock exhaust set up will do well. Adapters are still made to adapt this to the F1's transmission. Mounting is easy as they mount off the front and are dang close the early Ford flahead mounts. It can be had. They are out there and fairly reasonable. It's one of the few 1950 era engines that quite frequently may not need an overhaul. The Cadillac may be the most beautiful V8 ever made. It's top shelf!
    #2 ...
    The small block Chevrolet
    [​IMG]
    Yessir, I've just flushed the toilet on brand loyalty. But this engine may be best option all the way around. It can be mounted to F1's transmission. Hurst cradle mounts are still made for it. Ram horns clear everything nicely. With such vast aftermarket support it's a true bolt in with the right parts and that is adapting it to the F1-Early Ford drive train. Honest to goodness I think this engine was designed to go where a flathead was. Honestly it fits better. With the '50s and '60s script valve covers and generator...it's a cutie.

    #3...
    The Ford Flathead V8
    [​IMG]
    You got give credit where credit is due. You always dance with the one what brought you. The flathead has brought many to the dance....Ed Iskedarian, Vic Edelbrock, The list of legends goes on and on.
    It's low on horsepower. It may be a little fragile. They crack. They cost a lot to fix. Performance parts are expensive. (In my opinion the greatest expense). Of course they fit. They can be adapted to a c4. Nothing sounds like them. While I personally think a flathead is better in a Model A or 30's Ford. They will push around a F1 as well as you want.
    My truck will get one back this year. Nothing looks or sounds better.

    # 4...
    The smallblock Ford
    [​IMG]
    It's a long and skinny engine with goofy manifolds. It's not the easiest swap for a F1. Of the 10 Gazillion exhaust manifolds made for it....I believe every one of them wants to be where the steering gear is.:rolleyes: Headers..same deal. With all that said it will fit. SBF stuff is more expensive than Chevy stuff. For instance....the bellhousing to early Ford trans adapter. If you can find it.....It's 3x the price of the Chevy adapter. The early Ford mounts are no longer available...you'll have to make them or use a tube crossmember (best option).
    Lets face it it's ugly. It's made for a car that covered most of it with inner fenders and hoses. It's not a work of art like the Cadillac or Chevy. It come from a different time.
    All that aside, it's great engine. It sounds good. It performs well. It's one of the easiest engines to work on. it's a mechanics engine.
    I really love it but I love will it lot better in my '64 Sports Coupe.

    #5...
    The 215 6 cylinder
    [​IMG]
    The 215 was by far the best engine offered in the the F1.It was offered in the F1 for a one year, 1952. 215 specific parts are rare. If you have one in a '52 F1, I suggest you keep it. It's really a good engine and it's worth getting those rare parts rebuilt. If it's toast, it can be replaced with it's younger and more common sibling...the 223. The OHV6 was a much better engine than the venerable Flathead V8. Speed parts are available.
    # 6
    Olds Rocket
    It comes close the Cadillac in design. Early Ford adapters are available.
    #7
    Nailhead Buick
    Made for a long time like the Cadillac adapters are available.
    #8
    Early Hemi
    Hard to find it will fit, adapters are available. The cool factor reaches the stratosphere.
    # 9
    Any flavor FE
    Does not fit well, transmission adapters are non existent so the transmission will have to be changed. It does not fit well. It's ugly like the SBF. It's heavy. But.....
    Day-ummmnn Nothing sounds and runs like a FE. A FE powered F1 will be a monster indeed.
    # 10
    The Ford 300 six cylinder.
    I had to mention the engine that was almost the Hudson Hornet OHV 6 if Hudson had lived. This may be the greatest engine in history. It shares the same bell pattern as the SBF. It will fit easy in a F1 on a FE crossmember. The radiator has to be moved up the the 6 or big truck position. It's a really good choice but it does not have that "Wow Finish" like the Caddy, Olds, Hemi or Flathead.

    All things being equal (whatever the hell that meanso_O) I have researched all of these and they all come close to the same dough. What you save in one area you'll pay for in another. They all will cost about the same.
     
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  16. In my opinion, still the best!
     
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  17. Ok, quick update. First, to clarify, I am not a body man and until this project I’ve never used a hammer and dolly. I ventured down the path and here’s where I am so far. The credit really goes to great people who post videos on how to and also to the amazing shrinking disc... [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG] IMG_0630.JPG IMG_0634.JPG [​IMG][​IMG]


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  18. ^^^^^Do not be afraid to attempt anything once. If you have doubts about what you are doing and can't get an answer. Go to your nearest local body shop or junkyard as they would probably have a mangled fender for you to experiment on. Don't look to bad so far. Keep it up.
     
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  19. Aw gee,..me thinks you're makin that too nice...you're takin away all the character,...carry on...
     
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  20. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,418

    catdad49
    Member

    It looks like you're a quick learner! Older sheet metal is a little more forgiving because of the thickness ( less oil canning), and curved pieces are a bit easier to metal finish without having that problem. How does it fit? I think you're on your way, Carp.
     
  21. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 3,547

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    Keep hammering , I’m in morning I got rid of mine .
     
  22. Dusty roads
    Joined: Nov 29, 2016
    Posts: 127

    Dusty roads
    BANNED

    There is good steel in N.D. but it is getting harder to find due to the increase in scrap steel prices.
    Found this one West of Fargo in 2006. RJ%20042.jpg
     
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  23. Colonial Coupe
    Joined: Dec 22, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Colonial Coupe
    Member

    IMG_1541.JPG my 49 f1, brought it back from New Mexico. I was going to paint it but friends begged me not to change it. People love it just as it is and me too. I guess what some consider an ugly 302 Ford and a c4, 9" rear, power disc brakes posies front springs up front a few leaves removed out back, it rides real nice. I'd rather drive this than anything else that I own. I wipe it down with linseed oil every spring, it brings the colors out nicely and rain just needs up on it.
     
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  24. We take a break from the build post for a moment while I demonstrate that I might have a problem. Acquired 10 minutes ago:
    [​IMG][​IMG]


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  25. Jealous here, I sold my panel during a brief period of maturity, regretted it ever since.
    You don't have a problem, just good taste.
     
  26. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Uh oh.Looks like problems ahead:rolleyes::p.Decisions,decisions.Now the fun begins.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  27. Problems? No, just addicted. Look at it as more body work practice. NICE!
     
  28. 0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Joined: Nov 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,785

    0NE BAD 51 MERC
    Member

    Build the PANEL!!! Paint to match Merc and tow to Byron for Glory Days and Pie contest. Panel is beyond cool! By the way did I mention I love Panel trucks! lol Larry
     
    Hot Rod Brando likes this.
  29. 65 mustang gas tank works real well on these trucks. 100 bucks from NPD, made in Canada. You just add the fuel sender to match your gauges. I ran a 302 roller with a C4 and 9in. Have fun. Painted mine with Lowes 35.00 dollar a gallon latex, shot through my DiVilbiss gun...
     

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