Guys, I need a little motivational help as well by letting me know this is fixable then advice on how to fix. I am coming along with my 57 Pontiac project. I am pretty good at fabricating metal and solving problems; but, I have almost no experience shaping and finishing sheetmetal. That said, I used 55 Chevy patch panels and a mig welder on both sides of the front quarters to repair rust issues. I'm only showing driver side; the passenger side has same situation. The tops of the panels were flanged; but, I had to cut them on the rear as the wheel openings are different for Pontiac. As you see I also had to add small pieces at the bottom in this area as well. Looks good looking straight on but in lower pic you begin to see some of the issue with a straight edge looking down on it. The main issue is that the patch panel has too much crown both up and down as well as side to side. It has too much roundness to it and needs to be more flat in that area to match the profile of the original panel metal. I should have noticed that before I welded them in; but, I didn't-novice move on my part. Compounding the problem on the driver side is that the car took a 'lick' just on the fender opening lip which has probably pushed the original metal in some in that area. You can see the ding on the front lip about half way up the area with the primer sanded away. School me, give me a plan how best to solve this and get these panels straight. Feeling a little overwhelmed.
I'd be tempted to cut the weld with a thin wheel and pull or push to two panels together then reweld. Not only will this make the panel flatter but will help with a srink from the weld.
With the step in it you will never get the high crown out of the panel. You can't shrink two parts at the same time. Go in the back side and grind off the step, than you can at least work the panel. Next you will need to decide what process you'll use to shrink the high spot out. You have a couple choices, none are easy. The high may have been caused when you fit it up and nothing to do with actually welding it in.
You have come to the point in your metal working career that it's time to learn how to shrink sheet metal. The crown can be removed back to the correct contour. Forget any flanges for the time being. I would heat shrink it with either an oxy/acetylene torch or a stud welder with a shrinking tip. The height of the crown will determine how many shrinks will be needed. Several will be needed for sure. Do you have either a torch or stud welder?
John, I totally disagree with leaving the step flange (or even making one) however before saying it can't be done I'd like to set back and watch you do it so I can learn how it's done. I'm the last one to say I know it all. Like most I only know what works for me.
The flange can be worked along with and during the shrink process. It does add stiffness to the panel for sure but to some extent at least it will move during shrinking although it will need to be coaxed along with light hammer blows. I didn't want to get too far into the actual process until we know what equipment RARERODDER has. Step flanges do have good and bad points.
I can't think of a single benefit of a step flange other than getting the welding part of the job done in a hurry. But you will pay for it later. I'd say the OP is going to have some difficult shrinking in his future. He'll learn well, and never do a lapped joint again.
[ If this question is directed to me the answer is yes and after seeing your work there and assuming you have shrinking experience I have no doubt that you could work the OP's panel back to an acceptable contour. He is dealing with 2 vertical and 1 horizontal HAZ The horizontal flange is really only 2 layers of sheet metal and is stiffer than the vertical seams. Granted it will be a hurdle to overcome but I want to see the eager to learn OP finish the job without starting over.
Was not specifically to you John and I agree with not doing a total re do. Maybe my comment about the Lap Joint wasn't clear enough. What I would do is take a small 36 Grit disc sander and totally remove "just" the overlap of the replacement panel down to the weld seam he made leaving the weld seam in tact. Now he has one panel to work and clean up. Would make his job a good bit easier. The photos on the other post was just for a clearer picture of how I go after a job like this one. I'm proud to say there was absolutely no shrinking done on that repair at all. It also was not my first time around. For sure many ways to get er done.
Ok guys, here we go! John, I do have oxy-ace torch as well as body hammers/dollies, etc. Just a little back story-I first welded in the patch panel on pass side of car without flange. Once I cut the original quarter metal, it bowed out a great deal due to internal stresses from when it was originally stamped at the factory. I just couldn't get it and the Chevy patch panel (with flange cut off) to lay down so I ordered a second pass panel and this time left the flange. More info that might be helpful is that the flanges themselves are darned near flat. The crown begins a little below the flanges.
Also, I've attached a few more pics of my project to help you guys understand my skill level (or lack thereof). Once I cut away everything I didn't want to keep, I only had 2/3's of the cowl, 2/3 of the outer quarter panels, and 2/3 of a trunk lid. I've replaced the following with repop'd panels and added 59 El Camino dash, firewall pans, front and rear lower door jambs, entire floor pan modified to fit Pontiac frame, entire trunk pan modified to fit frame, two new doors, toe boards, both rocker panels, both rear wheel wells, both inner front quarters, all reinforcement panels, partial rear inner quarters, top panel between top and deck lid, both lower trunk gutter corners and lower middle gutter section, lower trunk lid inner panel modified to fit Pontiac lid (it is different on longer cars) and made, welded and crimped new lower trunk lid outer panel.
I flanged a joint 1 time Didn’t like it Learned to butt weld Made the metal finishing a lot easier. Then I discovered the shrinking disc
I'm too far into this project to let these quarter panels stop me now. I've got to learn how to make them straight. I wish I had someone who could look over my shoulder and teach me. But, I do not so hoping to learn here.
jasper that shop is close to Hohenwald, I know a guy there. I have bought a couple of BB Caddy engines from him
hmmmm he builds derby cars I might could possibly head up that way but Im 2 weekends out on even thinking about it
What you have is totally fixable without cutting things loose. It's a bit of work but you'll get there. It's very hard to explain on the Keyboard how to do a job that takes Feel and as you know there are a dozen ways to do the same job. I'm pretty good at shrinking with a Torch but even at that have gotten into things that give me fits. I also like using a Disc on a high speed grinder. There are two styles of them, a smooth one and waffered one. They each have there own place. As well, assessing what tool to use on your issue is difficult to decide by photos. Personally I think the smooth disc is the one to start with. Hang in there, you've got this far and you'll get past this little lump. Wish I could be more help.
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