What is the best way to remove a tie rod end on a new install without cutting up the rubber boot? I need to bend my steering arms to run my tie rod over the bones. I just installed a month ago and keep looking at it, hanging too low. I have pickle forks, but this would cut up the boot. loosen the nut and air hammer it from that end?
It doesn't always work, but I have had good luck removing the nut, turning it over and screwing it on so the flat (not the castellated end) is even with the end of the stud to protect the threads. While supporting the steering arm, a couple firm licks with a hammer generally get them loose. Also, with the nut loosened, a couple wacks on the side of the arm's tapered end while holding a heavy hammer against the other side will sometimes "wake" up the joint. That might be what saltflats was saying? Lynn
Take off the nut and turn it upside down and screw it on till its flush and try with a hammer but this doesn't always work. Sometimes your stuck with a new tie rod end. Phil
They make pullers for this, I’m not a fan of hitting cast iron with a hammer. Hitting the end is a good way to ensure you ruin threads even with the nut. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
You're correct about the pickle fork ruining the boot. I've always had good luck using 2 hammers hold a BIG one against one side of the arm and strike the other side sharply with about a 1# hammer. g
I have a pickle fork for my air hammer and I don't know why but it only takes about 3 seconds and for some reason usually doesn't tear up the rubber.
Pretty sure you can buy a new rubber at the parts store. But, I have done as mentioned above: Place a maul on one side of the eye of the arm, then whack the other side of the eye with a big hammer. It did make the rod end pop out. Granted, these were not decades-old rusty rod ends.
New ends are cheap, almost worth snagging 2 before I start. Anyone know the part number for Ford 5/8 thread ends?
I removed ball joints on my 160,000 mile Tahoe DD by using two relatively heavy ball pein hammers. Loosen the tie rod end nut so it will still support the end and strike the sides on the spindle eye smartly with the hammers, the stud will pop loose. I’ve used this for years, always worked for me. Obviously, if you have paint it may be damaged, and if chrome then maybe use brass hammers.
You need something like this. Will work a treat. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TIE-ROD-EN...=item4d40daca69:g:5KUAAOSwyjBW40Li:rk:32:pf:0 I think that's a UK listing with free international shipping. They're typical tools for older UK cars (MG's, Minis etc) which have smaller that typical US tie rod ends. They fit well and just work without damaging the rubber. Chris
Ball joint puller works very well with a chunk of aluminum stock between the tie rod end and the puller bolt. Doesn't damage a thing.
replacement boots as suggested above, dont last more than a couple months before rotting and disintegrating.
I am going to try this, but I ordered a puller off Amazon also. So just smack the sides of the steering arm, like you are trying to peen the sides in on the taper? I don't know if I am coordinated enough to do that.
Hit the side of the steering arm like you are trying to close the hole up. It sometimes helps if you can put a little pressure on the rod end.
Modify as necessary to fit your specific tie rod end and steering arm. I don't ever use a pickle fork anymore, even when I don't care about destroying the boot.
Long ago I was taught the two hammer method but a little different than described earlier. I use two ballpeens one larger than the other. I strike the joint with both hammers at the same time. Don't kill it, just a firm smack, over and over until it lets lose.
Buy good quality replacement boots Sent from my Chromebook 11 Model 3180 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A little tension on the tierod and strike the side of the tapered eye with a hammer, don't need brute force, the vibration on the taper shakes it loose. a little tension on the
You don't swing both hammers at the same time, You use one hammer on the back side of the tapered end like a dolly when doing body work and sharply hit the opposite side with the other hammer. Don't do this with only one hammer...the second one absorbs or reflects the energy and focuses it just around the taper.
A long time ago I bought a “ pitman arm “ puller off the Mac truck. I’ve used it on tie rod ends with success. It’s a very heavy duty puller with two tie bolts through it to keep the puller arms from from slipping off. Has never failed me. Would go out in the shop and take a pic, but it’s cold and rainy here today! Bones
This is what I did when I was doing front ends for a living. Pull down on the tie rod, give it a whack and 99% of the time it came loose. Keep the nut a few threads on the tie rod for safety. I still have the #3 BFH I've used for years.
Let me add a little to that method that will almost guarantee success with one strike. You need to support the arm holding the tie rod with a jack stand or something very solid, as close to the tie rod end as possible. Jack the car up and let it down on the arm so that it is solid, not all the weight of the car but some. Then hit sharply with a hammer no less the four pounds. Hammers come in sizes, just like wrenches, for a reason. Just my .02. Didn’t mean to hijack your post ,Bob. Bones
Classic.... The first reply was all that was needed...BFH one blow, Like it's an X ol' lady... it'll be three page's by the weekend
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