Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Way to identify brand / type of Distributor?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NewToMeT, Jan 21, 2019.

  1. NewToMeT
    Joined: Dec 6, 2018
    Posts: 80

    NewToMeT
    Member

    New to me T Bucket. Want to set the points so wanted to look up the specs, do maintenance, get spare internals.

    Cant see any identifiable markings/branding where it sits. Do I need to pull the distributor all together? Look under the cap, etc? Or can you tell what it is just by looking.

    Its sitting on a SBC 283.

    (rebuilding the carbs so no comments on the sorry dirty state :) 1 down. 3 to go..
    20190121_163903.jpg 20190120_114838.jpg 20190120_114750.jpg 20190121_165523.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 30,778

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    That is probably the delco distributor the 283 was born with. They made that “window” distributor from 57 thru 74 . The window is the metal sliding door you adjust the points through
     
    NewToMeT likes this.
  3. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,137

    redo32
    Member

    Ah... you young whippersnappers. What Big M said, with aftermarket clear cap. Get out your dwell meter and set it at 32 degrees. An allen wrench adjusts the points. Easy Peazy.
     
    54vicky, firstinsteele and NewToMeT like this.
  4. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    It looks like a stock GM Delco distributor with the paint cleaned off and an aftermarket cap. Most of the early ones were painted black and the first ones on the 265 were cast iron. As a starting point set the point gap to .016 with a feeler gauge blade, when you get it running hook up a dwell meter and stick a 1/8" Allen wrench through the window into the adjustment screw and turn slowly until the dwell is 30#.The dual point set up is different, you block off one set of points with a piece of plastic shim stock or cardboard and adjust dwell. Now switch the shim over to the other set of points and adjust that dwell. Don't forget to remove the shim when you get through, it won't run good ask me how I know.
     
    NewToMeT likes this.

  5. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,818

    BJR
    Member

    There should be a plate riveted to the outside of it with some numbers on it or just numbers stamped on it. Give us the numbers and we can tell you all about it.
     
  6. FYI....Mr Gasket still offers that clear distributor cap, their part number is 1260
     
    NewToMeT likes this.
  7. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D And when you insert the Allen wrench,just be careful.Stick it in wrong place,and your shorts just might start to glow in the dark:rolleyes::p.BTDT.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
    54vicky and NewToMeT like this.
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    the aluminum distributor started being used in the early 60s, I think 1964. if there are numbers stamped on it like they should be, we can help you identify it. Part number, and date code.
     
  9. NewToMeT
    Joined: Dec 6, 2018
    Posts: 80

    NewToMeT
    Member

    Thats the thing, I cant see any plate or identifying info? Where would it be/or have been?
     
  10. NewToMeT
    Joined: Dec 6, 2018
    Posts: 80

    NewToMeT
    Member

    Thanks! I do need to replace as several of the posts on top have snapped off and are jest being held in by the plug boot. The cap was originally black when this car was born (I have pics since my dad built it in the 70s :, known if any of the 5+ owners since chainged the actual distributor) but the clear is cool too
     
  11. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,373

    Fordors
    Member

    The early cast iron distributor bodies used an aluminum band that was placed around the housing just above the clamp. On the aluminum housings it will be found stamped on the circumference under where the cap seats.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2019
    squirrel likes this.
  12. Really cool you got back the car your Dad built!
    Wish I could get back my Dad's '47 Ford convertible...
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    it looks like this

    dist.jpg

    The first long number is the part number, the second number set is the date code. First digit is the last digit of the year (9 means 1969 in this case), letter is the month (C is the third month, March), 28 is the date.
     
  14. NewToMeT
    Joined: Dec 6, 2018
    Posts: 80

    NewToMeT
    Member

  15. NewToMeT
    Joined: Dec 6, 2018
    Posts: 80

    NewToMeT
    Member

    OK, I need to get up under there, didnt see it on first pass. Wouldn't put it past either my dad or some of the subsequent owners to have ground it off. He did this with the marking on the carbs too...
     
  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    What particular car it's from really doesn't make much difference, you know :)

    but it sure looks like a 1964-74 stock Chevy distributor.
     
  17. as squirrel said, doesn't make a lot of difference what it is from. if you need cap/rotor/points/condenser just ask for a 1964 Chevy Belair with a 283
     
    NewToMeT and harpo1313 like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.