Technical '54 Ford Crestline small block crack

Hi, gang. I need some advice. I have just discovered on my '54 that there (at some point) has been 2 small block crack repairs (size of 1/2 dollar) done on my car. (bottom of the engine forward of the starter) I only noticed as my dad & I were working on my starter and saw a drop of coolant. We plan to grind off the old putty and start with a fresh, clean repair. What would be my best chance at luck with product? Would JB weld steel stick work or regular JB Weld? I can't afford to pull the engine and replace it. I feel the guy I bought the car from had to have known about that past issue of the block crack but not much I can do now except to try to fix it as best I can. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

You have to get the block as clean as possible for anything to stick to it and lots of luck with that. It may work for a while. I've used a Solder Seal product, Block Saver before. I don't know if its still around. Check some of the head gasket sealers, I used one in an OT Nissan maybe 5 years back and it worked. That was losing coolant into the combustion chamber.

 

What ever you do you will have to drain the coolant to get it to stop dripping. Then clean it with some brake clean, maybe "V" the crack out a little. JB Weld has fixed lots of other engine leaks from cracks in the past, so that is where I would start. Also if you have had no overheating problems in the past, put a lower pressure radiator cap on it to reduce the pressure in the water jackets.

 

Thanks, BJR. Taking notes now...

 

Thanks for that advice. I definitely know to clean as good as possible. The current "patches" look really old so maybe I will get lucky with it by doing it correctly.

 

I'll admit to being lazy, but if your only clue was a drop of coolant, I'd let that sleeping dog lie for a while, and keep an eye on it.

 

Thanks, williebill. I TOTALLY understand what you are saying. One of the spots would weep a little when pushed on so that's where the majority of my concern comes from. I hate to know it could be a tickin time bomb.

 

There is probably more JB weld patching things on our old cars, than we would like to admit

 

My friend Sonny told me the same thing just yesterday when I was telling him of my situation.

 

The advice of a v groove and JB Weld is sound.
Done that a time or two myself

 

Maybe grind it flat , clean and vee, then a small sheet metal "patch" JB welded on.

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Is there a type of patch material or mesh that would help hold the JBW? I plan on letting the stuff set up for a couple of days before I try to crank her. No rush on this one.

 

I would also try some block/head gasket sealers that go in cooling system. Irontite is a brand I have some success with.

 

Thanks, ric. I have thought about that also. Any drawbacks from using?

 

Ive has good success with JB weld. You Have to clean the surface. I use bars leak stop leak.

 

Can you get to the area with a drill and a tap? You could pin it. Almost as good as new afterward. I have a friend that works miracles with that process on ancient stationary engines.

 

I've watched some guys on youtube doing that and it looks amazing after they finish. That is beyond my scope of talent, tho. The area is not the easiest to get to but it is accessible enough.

 

Try the Bars Leak first and run it up to temperature. Either break out the leaking area first or after you try the Bars Leak so you will know it sealed from the inside. Then clean and apply the JB Weld. You may discover the crack is bigger than Bars Leak will control if you clean the old JB Weld off first but that is a chance for you to decide. You could use a piece of sheet metal roughed up with a 36 grit disc to lay over the crack after the first layer of JB Weld then smear some over the sheet metal patch.

 

Thanks. Is the Bars Leak easy on water pumps, radiators and heater cores?

 

Probably better than the dry ground up aluminum powder. The Bars Leak that you want will look like rabbit pellets in a liquid and come in a bottle. It is supposed to have lubrication and seal swelling additives for the water pump too.

 

Your statement that you can push on it and make it weep is concerning. That is why I suggested pinning it. Any glue on the outside or powder in the inside will not help if that piece falls out. They will not stop the crack, pinning it will.

 

I dunno... my experience with the stuff is that it will clog a heater core. I would bypass the heater until it ran for a while. It has also been known to settle in radiators, but the heater core is a dead end for the stuff.

 

I patched a 409 block with JB it worked great. Good luck. Glad you went with the mini starter.

 

Do a search on stitch welding. There should be some videos out there that show how to drill and tap for overlapping plugs along the crack line.

We did that as a field repair to hundreds of Diesel engine blocks with bad castings. The field service campaign using the stitching process to repair the cracks was close to 100% successful.

 

I would use a block sealer with water glass in it. It requires the use of straight water so you might until its warmer.

 

It sounds like in your opening statement that it is a Round spot. Are you sure your not just looking at a bad Freeze Plug? I have never seen a Round Crack.

 

I tend to agree with pist they commonly rust out if that is the case look for brass replacements.

 

The crack isn't round the patching material is. No visible crack visualized just yet.

 

So far the starter is doing great. I don't suppose it being hi torque will mess with the old/original fly wheel will it?

 

Here is a picture of the picture of the soft plug location above the starterhttps://images.search.yahoo.com/sea...t/items/images/63/732063/008.jpg&action=click