Technical shaved doors bear claw latch issues

I have a 37 chopped two door sedan with shaved doors. I installed bear claw latches with heavy duty solenoids ( kit PPP35K ). I have interior door handles installed with a cable in a housing attached to a hinged pull rod tied to the bear claw release. I also have a wireless key fob actuating the solenoids that have a cable in a housing tied to the same pull rod. I don't have weatherstripping or door poppers installed yet. The problem is sometimes the passenger door latch sticks and ends up in a state that neither the inside door handle or the solenoid can open the door. I have to shake the door to unstick it. That won't work with the windows rolled up as there is nothing to grab. When I had the car painted the painter painted the bear claw latches and I'm concerned this is the issue. If I had it to do over again I'd have left the outside door handles on but that's another issue. I've got another set of latches and might just replace them this weekend but thought I'd see if anyone else has run into similar issues. Am I on the right track that the bear claws shouldn't have been painted? Thanks!

 

I don't like paint where it doesn't belong, looks tacky for the most part and it can interfere with operation if it is on thick. In either case the latches need cleaning so start there.

Second, if the car is painted install the weather-stripping and see if that does the trick. And door bumpers if it has them.

Third, time to install your door poppers right? Hopefully you already drilled for them so stich them in.

If it worked prior to paint, you will figure it out. Nothing worse that shaking a door at a cruise in in front of everyone to get your family out of the car.

 

Another thought is that the doors are not aligned. As per Bandit Billy install the remaining items and then align the doors. Then worry about adjustments.

 

Since you have the new latches, switch them out and see if that cures it. But while it's all apart, make you you don't have any of those cables or rods sticking and binding up. I'd think they would be more likely to cause the issue than some paint on the small portion of the latch that is exposed. Look for worn and pinched parts. Common sense stuff, ya' know.

 

Thanks for the reply. Cables are all new. I’ll switch the latches out this weekend and see if that fixes it

 

Haven’t settled in the insulation yet. It’s a chopped top and whatever I get will require cutting so I’m leaning towards aftermarket. Some of my friends with shaved doors don’t have poppers as the insulation pushes the door out. I wanted to try that before drilling for the poppers. The paint is all over the latches. I have to pull them out to clean them so I’ll stick the new ones in. I had to make some linkage with a pull bar for the cables. The linkage might not be allowing the claw to fully return and I might have to look at a spring to offset the weight. Just ran out of time Sunday. Thanks!!

 

I’m pretty sure the doors are aligned ok. But I’ll double check this weekend. Thanks

 

if you did not have weatehrstripping in when you installed latches you might have other problems show up, depending how well you want wind noise blocked out - yep, try the new latches then with some simple sticky backed insulation installed - door poppers should be a plus to move door open enough to have a place to grab door without having to force fingers in to be able to open door easily - but, sometimes placement at hinge works better than along lower side of door - to have that "Cool" look can be a challenge

 

The paint could very well be causing the latch to hang up. Hard to say without seeing in person. You say it has worked before painting, and now has problems, so what changed - the paint. If the problem was there before, then it has some other issue causing the latch to be binding.

The latches have two catch positions. One partially closed and second fully closed. It sounds like yours are catching on the partially latched position maybe? However, the release cable or solenoid should be able to bump it open if you do it a second time, especially with a little help pulling the door open.

Only other thing i can say is that I have had many previous customers with poor quality latches from China. Once they replaced with my made in USA latches, there problems went away. So it may not be an installation issue, could just be a bad latch.

 

My bear claws seem to be an oddity. The New Autoloc small claws I have are for a smaller door post than mine measuring .490. My bear claws are the identical frame size as the small but use a larger pin measuring .550. I tried searching but everything comes up Autoloc. Maybe mine are an oddity. I put the existing in thinner to soak so I can see if they are damaged or not. Thanks for any guidance.

 

Call Carolina Custom.

 

Check out the On-line catalog with dimensions here. This is a North American manufacturer with latches that meet Canadian and US motor vehicle requirements. Not a re-seller.

https://www.eberhard.com/series/passenger-restraints

Used them in my A. Models Eberhart 9-400-R and 9-400-L with dual arms for inside and outside handles.

Did a bit of a write up here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...model-a-coupe-a-repost.1102036/#post-12500120

Canuck

 

I would sent a message to 38Chevy454 above and ask if he can set you up. I wouldn't buy Chinese stuff from Autolock.

 

there you go. learned long time ago if it say's Autolock on it to RUN as fast as you can.

 

Not to pile on; but my friend was having a similar problem with his Autoloc latches sticking; replaced them with some used Iowa made Tri-Mark latches, no more sticking. The AutoLocs seemed to bind with any load on them even tho they snapped open fine when cycled with the door open. Pitched 'em.

 

I’m not 100% sure that my old latches are Autoloc because of the difference in door post size. However the other dimensions including the mounting pattern are similar to the new Autoloc set on my workbench. This has been a 15 yr project and I’m in the assembly stage so I’d prefer to not have to do major surgery on the doors in changing bear claws. What’s that rock and a hard place saying? Thanks

 

But a great conversation starter and everyone gets a chuckle too.

 

Here's another source for bear claws
https://www.rockyhinge.com/bear-claw-latches-and-installation-kits-1.html


Phil

 

I found your problem:

 

There is genuine "Bear Claw" latch and bear claw style there is a difference so is the price

 

If no one has mentioned it before, SERIOUSLY CONSIDER an additional manual pull cable as a SAFETY pull in case of a dead battery or a failed solenoid pull. Just an observation from some one who's had it happen/seen it happen. Bill Rinaldi

 

Another fun scenario. Buddy set his keys including fob for the doors on the seat while working on something under the hood; went around the back of the car and closed the door to get by.

 

Update on the bear claw issue and a comment on the emergency release. Over lunchtime I went to my favorite vendor, Sasche Hot Rod Shop, and after talking to them bought a pair of their SRS-100 latches which are made by Englehard Mfg. Sasche doesn’t sell any of the Autoloc latches. Because of almost no clearance between the window channel and the latch there is no room for nuts so I’ll weld Tee Nuts to them. The mounting holes and other dimensions are identical to what I’m replacing so I won’t have to cut up my doors.
I have an emergency cable release I bought from Summit Racing. I’m still trying to figure out the best way to install it or some other scheme. My problem is the stainless looms I installed don’t have room for the cable which means another hole between the A pillar and door. I wish I’d used larger stainless looms but that’s life. I can get into the trunk where the battery is located with a hidden access button but that doesn’t help with the fob locked in the car scenario or some failure of the solenoids. One step at a time. Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll get some insulation, install the new latches and get that combination working then figure out the Safety pull.

 

Is there enough room between the door and running board to hide a small pull handle straight out the bottom of the door? Then you could route your emergency cable down there, and might only need it once in your life.

 

there's no access to the bottom of the door when it is shut. I tried to think of a scenario that would have the cable at the base of the body and still allow the door to open - gave me a headache. There are some buttons supplied with the kit that are a manual bypass of the FOB to energize the solenoids. Maybe one on each side of the car might be enough in 99% of the scenarios? I can get into the trunk and hook up jumpers if the battery is dead and if the FOB is is locked in the car the manual buttons would open the door. The alternative is another loom for the cable or a bigger loom that would allow the cable along with the power window and speaker wires.

 

"if it was easy everybody would be doing it" - just have to keep going and then it will all "click" together

 

I feel your pain and perhaps your new latches will work better. I can't remember who the manufacturer was but I bought them from Shoebox Central in Oklahoma . Here is a link to my website for The Gallery where I addressed the work on the doors. Maybe you can get a couple of ideas for cabling and linkages Etc out of this....
https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/The-Doors/

 

If you have access to battery powered override buttons in the trunk that are divorced from the electronics and mechanical handles on the inside of the door (which you really should have); I don't see the need for a mechanical release cable.

 

I do have mechanical interior door handles that are cable operated. I agree. The chances of both solenoid circuits failing at the same time aren't very good. Worst case i still have the templates used to make new door glass. I like the button approach better than trying to run another cable. thanks!

 

A separate button that is hidden, can function fine as a backup to open the door assuming you have solenoids. Just ensure it is wired so it can handle the solenoid power req'ts. Also in case of dead battery, make sure you have some way to apply 12v power so the solenoids can work.