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Projects 1932 Ford Roadster Build- "The Template Roadster"

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by x77matt, Jan 4, 2018.

  1. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks! I stole the idea from Denny Lesky at the Ionia Hot Rod Shop. He's pretty much the most creative chassis guy I know!
     
  2. Great build!! Very professional.
    So you WANT a 32 Ford roadster eh?
    How badly?
    I remember guys telling me this when I was a high school kid. Well this is a GOOD build here. I have started with worse...much worse. It is all in how bad do you want any car? It's only a challenge. Trades to be learned and mastered. It's all work. But after working all day doing cognitivestuff it is GREAT to get out into the garage and do manual labor. You sleep like a rock ready to go back to the suited jungle and a desk. In the end it led me to a teaching career and shop owner. Who knows how that road you start on will progress. It's all up to you and how you spend your off-from-work time. Kids and wives too. I had a hard road to get to my end and finished cars. When they are done they're great trading material!!! For property, a new roof, new truck, boat, etc. I've been there many times. When you watch one go down the road....it's done!!! Time to move on. ONTO the next build! Why not? Look at all of the equipment and tools still in the garage.
     
    Atwater Mike, kidcampbell71 and brEad like this.
  3. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I love your perspective- for me, the hunt for unique pieces and parts is half the fun. And the hours in the garage is a major stress relief outlet for a stressful job.
     
    kidcampbell71 and brEad like this.
  4. This thing is bad ass cool. Can't wait to see it on the road so I can check it out in person.
     
  5. ^^agree. This is badass.


    Walt
    Outsiders CC
     
    loudbang likes this.
  6. Harms Way
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 6,894

    Harms Way
    Member

    Amazingly captivating thread !..... Simply Awesome !..... Traditional Hot Rodding at it's best !!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks guys- it's been a slow couple weeks in the garage but I have been tinkering with fitting the decklid better. When I pulled the body and did the frame mods, everything was a bit off after I set the body back on (of course!) So it requires some more work. The decklid fit perfect on the driver side, but not so much on the pass side. I ended up trimming some of the quarter where it fastens to the trunk rail and reshaped it to fit better. A little more work and a skim coat of filler will make it look fine.

    20181007_141155.jpg 20181007_151039.jpg 20181007_141203.jpg 20181007_214749.jpg
     
  8. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,179

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    gettin' there
     
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  9. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Working on the front shocks this weekend. I'm using 33-35 front shocks mounted inside the frame rails. I'm using 35 shock arms level to the frame and then I lengthened a set of Ford shock links 2" and they will mount to the wishbone:
    20181103_190009.jpg 20181103_190013.jpg 20181105_165510.jpg 20181105_173445.jpg 20181105_153947.jpg 20181105_153359.jpg 20181105_164617.jpg 20181105_165543.jpg
     
    rpm56, rod1, brEad and 2 others like this.
  10. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Finished up the shocks tonight. I used some shock link balls from speedway and threaded them into the shock levers after making a threaded plug for the end. On the wish one side, I cut off the threads and TIG welded the balls to the wishbone 2 3/8 back. I think it looks pretty clean. Now I just need to find some NOS or rebuilt 35/36 rear shocks to replace my mockup shocks.
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    V8-m, rpm56, 51box and 8 others like this.
  11. Very Crafty if I do say so. I like this idea for sure.
     
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  12. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Dennis- now we will have to see if it actually works!
     
    IowaMercMan, neverdun and loudbang like this.
  13. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Small update from the weekend:

    The holes for my decklid mount were super hogged out to the point that they wouldn't really retain the hinge pin block bolts. I fabbed up replacement pieces for it and carefully removed the skin in this area to retain the second layer underneath (rain gutter).... Stay tuned- next up I'm gonna mess with the panel above the decklid for a better fit and reveal height.

    20190101_103745.jpg 20190101_103754.jpg 20190101_142721.jpg 20190101_191336.jpg 20190101_191341.jpg 20190101_192010.jpg 20190101_192041.jpg
     
    Atwater Mike, teach'm, rpm56 and 6 others like this.
  14. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    Nice work!

    —louis
     
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  15. qzjrd5
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,339

    qzjrd5
    Member
    from Troy, MI

    Love your front shocks!!!
     
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  16. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Couple updates from the past couple weeks. First off I fabbed up a rear crossmember cover and mounted it o the floor with nutserts and 1/4 -20 bolts.

    20190119_211625.jpg 20190113_192525.jpg 20190113_204525.jpg 20190119_213104.jpg
     
  17. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Next up, the panel above the decklid didn't fit well. I had to rework the passenger side quarter upper to get it to blend well, and then I cut the spotwelds to separate the the upper panel from the front drip rail. This allowed me to lower the decklid side and even out the for aft body line reveal. Also had to remake the driver side decklid mounting holes to move it down and back to fix the decklid fit.....
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  18. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Tonight i tackled the driver door. It's overall in giod shape but needed some attention to the bottom. I also wanted to try and remove the skin without ruining it so I could clean everything up before repair . I took some photos so you could see it apart as I have not found any pictures of the detail. The spot welds along the skin edge are easy to spot but it took a while to find the upper 4 spot welds across the top of the door inner. I out a tape measure on them to help anyone else trying to do the same. Also note the factory tar paper that was sandwiched between the skin and the inner.
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  19. qzjrd5
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,339

    qzjrd5
    Member
    from Troy, MI

    Looking good dude.
     
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  20. ijmcoachworks
    Joined: Jan 21, 2013
    Posts: 2

    ijmcoachworks
    Member

    x77 matt.I have just come across your post and love what you are building. I wanted to let you know that I have two original rear floor sections available if you wanted to go backwards a little bit?. Sorry I didn't see your post sooner.
     
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  21. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    PM sent!
     
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  22. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Finished up the driver door this weekend. I wire wheeled the inside of the skin and door inner and sprayed them with Rustoleum. I repaired some cracks and then put the skin back on and edge welded the bottom fold over. I also fixed up some small cracks here and there and rebuilt the bottom of the door inner. Still need to hit a few areas with the shrinking disc but for now it's solid and just about ready for some body work.
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  23. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    Looks great!
     
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  24. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Continuing on the driver side this weekend- I wasn't happy with the patch panel that was on the cowl lower as it was in two pieces and didn't flow well. I had a Brookville cowl second in stock so I used the bottom part of it to make a patch panel. I had to pie cut the front of the rocker to widen it and make it flow better. Have a little more detail work to do before I body work it but for now it's roughed in.

    20190209_205716.jpg 20190209_205745.jpg 20190209_224317.jpg 20190209_232028.jpg 20190210_215611.jpg 20190210_215621.jpg
     
  25. ijmcoachworks
    Joined: Jan 21, 2013
    Posts: 2

    ijmcoachworks
    Member

     
  26. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So I wasn't happy with the decklid fit against the quarters and even though my decklid was darn near NOS, I separated the skin from the inner so I could re work the curve. While I was at it I cleaned up the surface rust inside and hit it with some Rust-Oleum. Today I out it all back together and edge welded back on the fold over portions. Fits great now!

    20190309_212131.jpg 20190309_212141.jpg 20190310_202647.jpg 20190322_213932.jpg 20190322_213941.jpg 20190322_224133.jpg 20190323_115119.jpg 20190323_133806.jpg 20190323_135139.jpg 34314.jpeg
     
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  27. qzjrd5
    Joined: Nov 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,339

    qzjrd5
    Member
    from Troy, MI

    Great job Matt!
     
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  28. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,306

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    Turned out great!
     
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  29. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,276

    loudbang
    Member

    Nice to see a set of torches in a build thread :)
     
  30. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 812

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks! I'm cheating here with the TIG though ... Until I got my TIG, I would do all my body panels with the oxy/acet torches. That's how I learned 25 years ago.
     
    Atwater Mike, rpm56, brEad and 2 others like this.

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