Technical What can I do about this brake/gas pedal position?

I've seen pic of the throttle pedal on to of the trans tunnel but that work for me. I was thinking of getting a brake/clutch bracket and use only the clutch lever for the brake. Anyone else have this issue? There is no room for my size 14.

Thanks
Leon

 

Why don't you just cut off the mount for the brake pedal and instead of it turning to the right, weld it going left?

 

There are also brake pedal pads that have two mounting holes in the back so you can offset them somewhat to one side or the other ... Lokar is one that comes to mind. Maybe start there and then if that's not enough do what @goldmountain suggests

 

Modify the pedal arm. There is plenty of room to weld the pad mount coming out to the left of the arm and still leave room for your foot.




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Thought of that and it's a must do but it still doesn't make more foot room. I want the throttle on my side of the tunnel but not up under the brake lever. My size 14 is really hindered by the lever location. My thought was to get a clutch/brake bracket and weld the brake booster lever on the clutch arm, remove the brake level using the clutch to activate the brakes.

 

Try and find one of the old Ford brake pedal arms that are offset after it exits the floor. I have seen them but do not recall what year had them.

 

If you choose to not move pedals you can sink a heel pocket into the side of the transmission tunnel and build your gas pedal assembly accordingly, assuming the trans case is not tight to the tunnel. I've seen it done many times but apparently my Google search skills are deficient today.

 

If it were me I would reposition the master cylinder under the floor before you ever try to drive it, you have to be comfortable. HRP

 

I sympathize and I'm only fighting a pair of size 12's.It seems like every fraction is a fight. You definitely don't want a gas pedal under the brake or under the edge of your foot on the brake. That would make a brake failure an even more exciting ride. Like HRP (who types faster than me) said try to move the M/C to the left and as others have said mount the pedal on the left side of the arm. From your pictures it looks like the pedal will clear the steering column with enough room for you to be able to get your foot solidly on the pedal.

 

I would do whatever it takes to move it over some but not to the opposite side of the steering column. Being able to stretch your left leg out sure helps on long trips.

 

Gotchya 6 bro!
I fabbed this one up for my 34 a couple years ago. Not much real estate on that floor board for 3 pedals.

 

The master is already under the floor.

 

What does it look like from under the floor? The master cylinder probably can't move but can you make a shaft that moves The pedal to the left how ever much you want it to and Set it up so that the tube pivots on a shaft that is held on each end by a bracket somewhat similar to my not even close to scale drawing.
Or you could have a shaft that runs in bushings or bearings between the pedal and the arm that actuates the master cylinder. The arm sticking down was supposed to have a tag saying actuator arm for Master cylinder.

 

This looks like a good way to go.

 

Its an option. I didn't have any other choice, I couldn't go to the left with the pedals so...
If you go this route make sure account for the sound deadener, pad and carpet thickness.

 

DDDenny mentioned the method I use...a notch in the tranny tunnel. The key there is, how much space do you have until you hit the actual casing of the trans or the linkage? You'd be amazed at how natural it feels for me to rest my heel in the notch to actuate the spoon pedal & then move my heel from the notch to the floor to actuate the brake. I do have a four-speed manual trans, to boot. My E-brake is on the right side of the tunnel, allowing just enough room for a passenger's feet (if anyone would actually voluntarily ride with me). I don't have such a large paw like yours, but the truck is channeled about 5." Remember, there's an adjustment period for any ergonomic change. If you moved your toilet in your bathroom, you'd be pissing on the floor in the dark for a week or so.

 

Like DDDeny, I notched trans tunnel then a little use of the imagination and heat/cut and weld to the pedal. And as fleetside66 said, the notch lets the heel set comfortably in it. From very little room to sufficient with very little effort. 4 speed also.

 

That explains that!

 

no need to move the master cylinder , heat and bend the brake pedal arm. then poke a new hole through the toeboard

the pedal pad needs to be moved over to the other side too, as goldmountain said

 

Put the gas pedal On Left !
My self size 14 , Im asked all the time about wheres my gas pedal because not seen , its High on firewall
(30 FordA) with mounting tabs but with no bolts/screw holes going through firewall just the cable ,i used this style from Lokar , I-like this model because cross shaft is supported on both sides, I made brake Paddle with offset and different Pivot points,, OP Just take a few minutes or so , think look around and come up with a solution that will work for you and be safe , Brake pedal Is way far to the right , how about a picture of your master cylinder and brake pedal from underneath your vehicle ,

 

These look hot rod

 

Say no to billet!

 

Yes that looks Hot Rod , but cast . I prefer billet aluminum one , I added needle bearings , I put the miles on my car and race it , I need to make sure no possible binding at over 100 mph in the 1/8th
Again you have to bend down and look under to see my gas pedal, I'm into nostalgic looks/parts .
My 60s Eelcoo tank & 60s Moon hand pump on my steel 32 build will be used for the meth injection ,but most I do I modify parts to suit my needs to give a HotRod vibe ,

 

True but they look better smoothed, polished...and lightened a bit. Also installed bushings to take the slop out. Sold it to a fellow HAMBer .

 

There looks to me to be more then enough room there to be able to do just about anything, even for Bigfoot, and 3 pedals. The steering column is up pretty high which is a great start. I'd agree the brake pedal needs to go to the left and there've been many suggestions already but what's not yet been mentioned is that the brake pedal looks to be way to far down the toeboard. The feet in the pics look to be about to operate the pedal with the arch of the foot and not the ball as it should be. Size 14's might require a little compromise but they're hardly clown feet. I have UK size 11 (which translate to US 12) and I don't have difficulty driving and regular car and my hotrods are generally built around me but nobody with smaller feet has commented adversely about my pedal positioning.

I'd be looking to offset where the brake comes through the floor about and inch to the left (heat and bend as well as probably relocating the pad on the top of the arm)) and upwards an inch and a half or so - this would require cutting and extending first arm of the pedal (dunno what you'd call that!) but bearing in mind the arch of the pedal would change and might require adjustment and the pedal ratio would change slightly, which might necessitate other changes (eg master diameter).

Chris

 

The name in your avatar seems apt ; “do it over “

Do it again, put it where it should be ! What ever it takes.

In an emergency situation you would not want to have your shoe caught behind the brake pedal when you want it on top of it !
( Or you could wear smaller shoes ).
.

 

I just grazed through this and didn't read what I've learned in the past and I agree with Clem.

I'll add this and have said it many times. Do not use a pedal on the Left of column for Brakes. In the event of an emergency you want the natural movement of your right foot to go where it always does. You don't have time to think "oh ya, go more Left". And in the event a friend is driving at that time things need to be where they belong, not custom set for one specific vehicle. I suspect a little heat and bend of what you have with a new through hole will get you there, just don't go to far Left.
The Wizzard

 

I cut my brake pedal and welded it offset to get away from steering column, i only needed a couple inches. Firewall mounted master that regardless of how many times I repositioned could not clear steering column.

 

Bob Drake has what he lists as "Adjusta-pedal", B-2454-B that moves the pedal pad over. It does nothing for the brake lever but will give you a little more clearance if you decide to put a notch in the trans hump. The set up I have in my Deuce Roadster is the same as Bandit Billy's and works great.

 

Here's some more pics of what I'm working with.