I as well love Y-Blocks they keep falling out of the sky for me But then the bill that comes with building one up that has some pep and a full rebuild is a bit crazy. But at-least I dont have to worry about it blowing up on me. Y blocks are tough motors they can handle about 400 hp with a forged crank and a reasonable cylinder thickness it just cost alot of money to get to 400 hp. One of my Y blocks Is even McCoulluh supercharged...Talk about a neat looking motor and they fit nicely in a 32 frame so a 35 frame should be no problem
This 272 in my 57 has twice taken us on vacation to TN. Which is 500 miles one way. I run 70mph, stock 3 speed trans and 325 gears. And we make that trip in one day. Flawless performance. True miles unknown. Later,Bill
If my memory serves me, the '57 312's matched the 283 SBC's in hp. They had a 225, 245, and 270 hp with a single 4 bbl. There also was the supercharged with 300 hp. I had a '55 292 and a '56 312 (Merc-210 hp.). The '56 was heavy enough to get me in a class with 2 bbl Mustangs and Novas. I even took a few trophies. They both had duals with Walker glasspacks and the bell type Holley 4 bbls. I drove the crap out of them and never had any problems. I also replaced the starter on both of them and don't remember them being that bad. Best sounding duals with glasspacks out there!
I have 4 complete engines i will sell for $150 a piece. I put one on ebay and couldnt even get a starting bid? OldWolf
Were can I get information on the ford y-block adapter starter. I'm looking for the mini torque starter that they use ond the ford AOD transmission conversion. Does any one know as I need the mini starter.
I had a '56 Ford Convertible, 292 'Y' block. Street raced every Chevy I could find in San Jose, for 2+years. Never got beat. (this was from '59-'61) One fast guy with a '58 Chevy cheapo 2-dr sedan w/348 (280HP) swore my ragtop had a Chevy in it. He gasped when I opened the hood. Easy $60. ($20 a gear!) A few tricks I employed that got past tech at Fremont (Baylands) strip: C/Stock: '57 distributor, modified advance Rejetted Teapot carb Pistons installed backwards (Smokey trick that mimiced advantage of long rods) Stock Camshaft juggled 4* Erson Valve springs washered .060" Valve lash set at .014" hot 40% over 50: 10" clutch, San Jose Friction Mat'ls This car had extreme acceleration, and high RPM...valves would float at 6800 RPM. Maximum power @ 6400... Fremont Drags head tech 'Hillary' about wore the bolts out tearing it down every week. They just KNEW I was cheatin'! LOL
Bonehead question: I have a nice '54 Ford Coupe my son bought me for Fathers Day awhile back...putting a '63 390 Merc Marauder in it for now. Which way do the 292-type mounts face on the sides? Closed ends forward, or open ends forward? For the life of me, I can't remember, and they're easier to switch out here than in that damned chassis! I have the '56 2-stud mounts, Gosh I hate alzeimers... Thanks in advance.
If I can remember right...When I took the motor out of my 56 I think the open ends were facing the motor
The 292 in my Uni is VERY thirsty, of course with a lighter vehicle fuel consumption may be improved.
All pros, No cons, except those cats with Oldsmobile valve covers on their small block chevy!! Y-block -- y-not ~sololobo~
Strictly pro for me. Having Tim McMaster build my Y Block for my 26 RPU is pro all the way. 292 block -312 crank HD truck rods, mild cam and ported ECZ-G heads. Balanced etc. etc. Listen to this run in video of my Y Block and tell me how sweet it sounds. (as if I don't already know )
That's what I will be doing for my 27 coupe as well with either my edelbrock 6x2 or try to find a blower manifold
Back in the day I built a bunch of them. Did one of them for a friend, he picked it up at the shop, dropped it in a 56 Long roof and drove from Pittsburgh to California and back and many more trips. I never heard it run. Most of there problems were the junk oil we had available at the time. With the better oils of today you gona love it. Ice man
I always try and use a 65 and later flywheel and starter on my FE engines. Not a factory option with a Y block. They quit installing Y blocks in cars in 62 and trucks in 64. Ive ran across many old fords that the third starter bolt wasn't present. seemed to work ok with just two bolts.
Just another boat anchor powered race car. Hollow Heads Drag Team's '23 T-Altered from Finland. Best time 8.134s/171mph on 1/4 mile from this summer. 292 cid Y-Block with two turbos create 974,39 HP @ 6300 rpm and 1175,54 Nm @ 5700 rpm Follow us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/HollowHeadsDragTeamFinland/
Pros---- Engine block will put up with just about anything you can throw at it. Con---- Center cam bearing!!!! Y block top end oiling issues are caused by center cam bearing mush. Cam cores have a shallow groove that regulates oil and allows it to flow to the top end. Once the bearing mushes enough it closes off the groove in the cam and the oil stops. The depth of this groove is what has total control of oil flow to the top end. You can FLOOD the top end if you choose by cutting the groove in the cam to deep. .040" depth works well We've finally had hardened cam bearings made. Its the main thing we've seen this engine need street or race.
It was always stated that the cam bearings spun and stopped the oil flow. Ive torn down a lot of non oiling rocker Y blocks and never once found a spun cam bearing.
I've never seen a spun cam bearing in a Y block myself, not even in the 57' 312's that had cam tunnel issues. The cams are almost impossible to get to spin smoothly in the 57' 312's. In the old day many people used to put effort into smoothing the oil passage to the top end and drilling the feed hole in the head larger. Its not necessary they are already almost to big.
I stumbled on to this thread today. Let me put my one-and-a-half-cents in. I have owned a 55 Country Sedan with a mostly stock 272 since 2008. I had it professionally rebuilt for about 2500 bills including a slightly hotter Isky cam. It is still 6 volt with a Pertronix (Neg Grd) electronic ignition, rebuilt carb using ethanol-resistant parts, dual exhaust headers, dual fuel filters, and spin-on oil filter. (Sure, I would love a set of those T-Bird valve covers, but can't afford them.) Other than a bent pushrod, it has been a good old cruiser. (Drove it to Detroit and Pittsburgh.) Like every other Y-enthusiast, love that exhaust note. I'm pretty lax when it comes to storing the car in the winter. I keep it in a garage with a float charger. I start her up periodically, though. Never had a problem. Good runner.
Didn't the 312's have a problem with cracking the saddles in the block? Maybe over torquing the caps? Remember reading about it a while back.
Well, only one of you mentioned the "OTHER" Y-Block : It's "Big Brother" the Truck/Commercial/Lincoln version(279"/302"/317"/341"368") that DIDN'T have the over/under intake ports, & DID have hydraulic lifters. Yes, the only parts that interchange are the starters, the distributors(MUST change the gear & make sure if the oil pump drive is "screwdriver" or "hex" to match up with the oil pump you are using!!), & the oil pumps(SEE PREVIOUS NOTE!). They are a SIMILAR design, just bigger & heavier, but just as reliable(if not more so) as their "little brothers"! Oh, in case you were wondering, I just thought it was time to say : "BTTT"!!
I built a 272 for my 29 a and was able to find some nos Forged Power pistons It has a 3x2 intake but I will just run 2 carbs 3 speed standerd trans with overdrive.
Actually, Mummert is doing aluminum heads but they are extremely pricey Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app