So I cannot find anything about this on the internet for as long as I've been looking 1964 c10 my zbar is connected at the block and will not connect into the bracket that holds it in place to be able to rotate when the pedal is pushed I believe the ball stud is sticking out too far and will not slide left or right into the slot of the bracket on the frame rail Does anyone know about this or had experience with it? Sent from my Pixel 3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We're these parts together and functioning previously? What is different, before, during and after reassembly? Pictures?
There are different width z-bars and different height ball studs. Make sure you are using the matched parts. Some six cylinder and BOP stuff looks close to Chevy stuff but it is different.
Take a few pix of what you have, sounds like a mix of parts that don't play well together. Some of the truck part sites have exploded views of all the parts, year by year. https://www.americanclassic.com/Clutch-Parts/products/430/
They were but I'm thinking either the ball stud sheared or something like that. How long is the threaded end supposed to be? Also I attached a few pics of it see how the nut touches the bracket instead of being behind it Sent from my Pixel 3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
They were I heard a kind of boom and then the clutch pedal fell to the floor Sent from my Pixel 3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would suggest checking motor and transmission mounts or failure or sagging , to see if the engine has moved. I would also try to straighten that slot (or should it be a hole not a slot?) so the nut could hold the ball stud better. Phil
Remove the z-bar and take the ball stud that was connected to the frame bracket out of the end. The shank of the stud has flats on it that engage with the bracket so the nut can be tightened. The ball stud in the block side of the z-bar is different, it's longer and has an integral hex so it can be tightened into the block, or on earlier setups the bell housing. You will need to repair the frame bracket so that it will engage the flats on the ball stud and hold it in the proper location. Inside the z-bar you will find nylon bushings with spherical seats that may need replacement too.
It looks to me like the ball stud is too far down in the cross shaft and the nut is screwed on too far. I would try pulling the ball stud out farther and putting a flat washer on the stud on either side of the bracket after straightening out the bracket. Also, what were you changing out when you took this apart? Is the inner end of the cross shaft in the same place it was originally? If I remember right, depending on application, there were multiple inner attaching points available.
I didn't take it apart I was driving it in the field after I took it off the trailer and the clutch just went soft so I opened the hood at it wasn't attached Sent from my Pixel 3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Does your bellhousing have the ears that attach it to the chassis? That adds a lot of structural strength to everything in the drivetrain. Something has moved, go over everything suggested. I have never seen a ball stud pull out of the frame mount. It may be an incorrect ball stud as well.
Looks to me like that stud needs to sit higher (in the pictures, not sure of proper orientation). It appears that there was a nut on the end there, and that's what likely went "boom" and let the stud drop. That nut and washer should be above the bracket, with the ball below, with maybe another washer. I'm no chevy guy, but I'd bet someone cut that bracket so they could slide that stud in/out easier; I doubt an engineer would have given that stud such an easy escape route... Mike
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