Projects '36DD - (My Double Duty 3-window build.)

Thanks! I'm still feeling my way thru' this, but I guess my skill level is getting better all the time.
Bear

 

Thank you!
Bear

 

Thanks! I'm really happy with the profile. It looks even better with a door on - hope to get some more pics up real soon.
Bear

 

Thank you!
Bear

 

Thanks! It probably doesn't involve any more work than the traditional pie cut method, but it certainly puts a bit more lean into the rear pillar which is the look I was after.
I'll admit I was a bit (a whole lot!) worried about cutting such a big section out, but as soon as I moved it around and saw how well it was gonna' fit I knew I had made the right call.
Interestingly I just watched a Bobby Walden video of a '32 chop the other day, and he did a very similar thing, and mentioned that it worked real well on '35/'36 bodies too.

Bear

 

Bear, does the A pillar on the 36 consist of a inner structure and an outer skin or is it just one layer?

Sent from my SM-G960F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hey Jedi,
It is just basically the outer skin with a channel section which holds the timber upholstery tack strip, but everything is accessible for welding it back together.



Bear

 

Thanks! Appreciated. Good info for my yet to come "haircut".

Sent from my SM-G960F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Well, I guess I am well overdue for an update! There's probably a few thinking "he's f%#&$d this up, and we won't be hearing from him again..."
Thankfully that isn't the case, I've just been plodding along quietly in the background, measuring everything 5 times then cutting once. Still just lining things up as best I can, and tacking as I go, just in case I have to back pedal for any unforseen reason.

Got the rear corners tacked in place, which meant I could get rid of all the clamps and give myself more room to move.











Once these were good and solid, I started to correct the misalignment in the front and rear roof sections, brought about by the taper in the roofline from front to rear. The front needed to come in slightly, and the rear needed to come out some.
I cut a couple of tapered sections out of the front door jamb area and closed them up, then did the same with the outer skin just up from the driprail area.













The rear section had enough flex, due to the cutout for the roof insert, so I managed to coax it out far enough to get things in to line.

I made up some roof patches using pieces I had salvaged from a rusted out sedan roof along with some sheetmetal I shaped up.


Then started tacking these into place, trying to get the driprail line as close as I could, then working my way up to the top of the crown.





Bear

 

I applaud your talent and balls of steel; this chop is certainly not for the faint of heart!
Gonna look bitchin'..........

 

I don't know about balls of steel, I think it's more of a case of being in so deep you've just gotta' keep on going! But thanks for your confidence anyway!

Once the outer skin was all lined up and tacked, I turned my attention to the inner jamb area. There was so much slitting and splicing going on to line things up, combined with a fair lashing of factory lead in the join area, that I decided to cut some of that section out, and remake it as one piece.



So I folded up replacement sections, and stretched the flanges slightly to match up with the curve through the upper jamb.



Then welded them into place, still struggling a bit with some of the residue from the factory lead.



But I got there in the end, and sanded the welds up to a reasonable finish. There's still a bit of finessing to do to the drip rail area which I will deal with when I come to the final welding stage.







Bear

 

All I can say Bear is that you must be related to that guy in Pittsburgh named @Flop!

 

I can't believe you haven't taught yourself how to do lead work...............................or have you....................or your just not going to need any kind of filler?

 

Sorry, can't see any connection there myself, from what I've seen that guy Flop is a god where I am a mere mortal!

Bear

 

I've been thinking about having a go at it, its definitely gonna' need filler if I plan on finishing it this century!

Bear

 

Fantastic!!

 

Thanks to the new 'build' thread, I've just found your build, I'm blown away, amazing work.

 

I (and moderator Paul) added your build to the "sticky" list hope you don't mind?
Let me re word this;
I submitted your build to Paul who intern listed it on his "build sticky"! The build sticky is a great idea, thanks Paul!

 

Thanks for that Lon. It's a great idea to have a 'directory' of all the build threads.

Bear

 

Cool car Bear . So how do we find this “ Build sticky directory”

 

it is on the main HAMB board at the top with the other stickies

 

Can you be a little more descriptive, cause I don't see any link to a build directory. How about a screen shot?

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/the-hokey-ass-message-board.5/

4th post.

 

I think you have to be viewing the site on a laptop or desktop. I don't believe they're visible on the phone app. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Sweeet! Thank you!

 

It sure works on my Ipad. I think the fault was operator error , when the right eye was open I forgot to open the left , ha .

 

Time for another update - I did manage to get the driver's (US passenger) door cut down and tacked back together, then got sidetracked with a quick trip over to LA for the GNRS, to help get my buddy Bob Anderson's (RIP) Offy powered RPU set up for the 90 years of Model A exhibit.

Got started by carefully cutting the existing frame down to the correct height. I chose to make the cuts horizontally, rather than the usual procedure of cutting at right angles to the frames, because I wanted the cut to match up with the locations of the roof cuts on the outside perimeter, and went for the areas with the least amount of angular change on the inside (or window) edge. Got them close on the initial cut...



Then separated the front and rear portions at the flattest part of the door top, and sanded them up to a nice tight fit.



It's surprising how much the profile of the door frame changes over a 3" or so distance.






So once I figured out where the shapes began to change, I cut out some tapered sections to pull the wider pieces back into line.





Then closed them up and tacked them together.





And final welded the seams.





Then I formed up the necessary pieces to fill the gap at the top of the door, second layer shown here...



And welded into place...




I had a piece of the upright section of a 4-door window frame that I managed to salvage a portion of the outer skin from.



Trimmed out the required section, then managed to coax a gentle curve into it with a hammer and dolly, to match the profile of the upper frame.







And hammered a fold into the top section so it could be wrapped over the frame as per the original skin.



Real happy with the window shape, taking the inch or so extra out of the rear pillar has taken the 'wedge' out of the side window and made the opening appear almost symmetrical.



So good, after all this time, to see the final profile coming together...



Bear

 

Skillfully done and clearly communicated. Excellent!

 

^^^Too awestruck to say much more; other than, best chop on a 3w I've seen!

 

You were in the States? I'm your biggest fan, I feel snubbed..............................................................