So about a year ago I bought a 1955 Ford Fairlane as the first ever car I have ever bought. The thing is I love the shape, I love the era and I genuinely love the older cars, however I want to make this a brilliant looking vehicle, my starting point being with airbag suspension all the way around to get this as low as I can go. The question I have for this community is, has anyone done this? Do you have any tips or recommendations? Full Disclosure: I am not very technical when it comes to cars and automobiles but I am enthusiastic and patient when it comes to learning and working on this car.
Never looked underneath one. But if it's a leaf spring rear, basically any rear link set up will work. There's tons of different ways. 2, 3, 4 links etc. For the front suspension I'm not sure what they run from the factory. Post up a picture. Also brace yourself for the fellas that don't like air ride. "Bags are for groceries" comments and such. Haha.
Haha thanks for the heads up, I will be heading to my garage this evening so I will take a few photos of the underside for the community. As for the reasoning behind the airbag suspension, I have seen Bel Airs on bags, but I rarely see Customlines and Fairlanes on bags (in Australia anyway). Figured I would give it a go on my ride and post the results up here as I go.
yep, post pics of your ride - figure welding being part of conversion - consider upgrading brakes & steering too.
Given your experience, I would not recommend jumping in at the glory end first. Get the thing to a stage where it's a good running and driving car, then worry about image shit like 'bagging it." I know it sounds cool, but do the walking before you run. And yes, those have been converted to air bag suspension many times. Giving your location would also help.
Cheers X38, I'm located in the Melbourne Area (Australia). I have 2 chassis of which one has been completely repaired and ready to build up the platform. As for the engine it is running but the current chassis and floor makes it unsafe to drive at the moment. Basically the plan I had was to build up the "new" chassis with new brakes, suspension and whatever else I needed before pulling the body off and putting it on a rotisserie to repair the floor and skirts.
I'm going to go with X38 on this. You can throw a set of lowering blocks in the back, and Aerostar springs in the front for under US$ 100. That's going to get you about as low as you can drive it. Let's you set the stance, etc. Some of the guys over here have done the Granda spindles with disc and the Aerostar springs and been to low to drive. Matter of taste, and the roads you're on. Sounds like you've got a lot of work to do to get on the road and a lot of projects die because they're too big. Still got the y block, or something else?
Since you got a separate chassis then it doesn't get any easier than that. You can pretty much do whatever you'd like and just cut out whatever doesn't fit over your notch. It's how I did mine
Yeah it's a decent sized project, one I went into eyes wide open. Mechanically the car is sound, structurally is where the work is. I have been busy acquiring parts and panels to replace and update and have had it inspected by a couple of engineers to assess the repairs that need to be done. Time wise I am working to a 5 - 7 year plan (time and money being the main drivers behind this schedule). The bulk of the work is in panel repair. I still have the 272 Y Block in it of which I will transplant to the new chassis as I build it up.
Yeah. I went with a simple 2 link set up with a pan hard. Looking back I wish I would've put the bags on the bars rather than over the axle.
One of my buddies decides he wanted air suspension on his 55 crown Vic and had it done, retaining the the rear leaf spring suspension, the intermediate leaf was removed,the air bag mount sat in front of the axle between the center section of the rear pumpkin and the leaf springs, the mount for the frame was welded near peak of the frame, Exhaust system had to be re-routed you do not want too much heat near the bags, the front was easier , keep the sway bar in front! it is there for a reason, it becomes very hairy in cornering if removed
There are front air bag setups for 1954-1956 Fords that simply replace the stock coil springs, takes only minor fabrication & welding, basically an afternoons work. With Granada spindles you'll pretty much be able to lay the frame. Some inner fender well clearancing might be needed, depending on your tire size/wheel offset, etc. Out back will require a C-notch or small step notch which will allow it to pretty much set the rear lower quarter panels on the pavement. Any type of rear suspension you can think of is doable. Just note that triangulated 4-links usually interfere with the floor on these cars, so lots of folks go with a 2-link/Panhard bar, or a simple air-over-leaf setup which retains the leaf springs. You'll have to raise the driveshaft tunnel so it doesn't rub when dropped. Some fender well work might be needed depending on rear end width, tire size, wheel offset, etc. just like the front. With all that being said, you can get it really low, yet still drive able, without bags. There are lots of easy methods with very little fabrication (C-notch rear, raise driveshaft tunnel)
They are just your basic independent suspension, stamped steel A arms, and spindles and ball joints. Spring on the lower arm. Its been a while since I was under one
When stationary I would like it 10mm off the ground, but would like to have a decent ride height while driving it. Would be keen to know the following things though: How low can I go without major structural work? For those in Victoria who have done major structural work to the chassis how did it go through getting roadworthy certificates?
You might find more information on "bags" on a low-rider website than here on the HAMB, I'm surprised a moderator hasn't deleted this thread for being O/T here
Do u have any part numbers I would like to do this to my sunliner thanks in advance Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have always thought a reverse eye spring and 3" blocks was low enough. A small relief area under the back seat is needed for the drive shaft. that and a cooler full of beer is low enough
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