Technical 32 Wishbone with a Model A axle

Still gathering parts for the AV8 build and I have the following that I am trying to mate together:

• '32 wishbone
• shortened '32 K crossmember
• Original Model A frame
• 4" dropped Model A axle
• 8BA flathead converted to the 59AB configuration
• '39 transmission in a truck case

I was hoping to use this setup and not have to modify my firewall and keep a '32 grill in the original Model A grill location.

So now for the question: It appears that the '32 wishbone inner diameter is narrower than the Model A axle. When using this '32 wishbone and model a axle setup, do the axle bosses need to be machined or should I open up the '32 wishbone inner distance?

I hate to grind on an original '32 wishbone and perhaps the milling of the model a axle may be a better option. Or I am off base using the '32 wishbone and model a axle?

Thanks,

Brian

 

if there is room to take an 1/8" off each side of the axle boss i think that is the better way...i've done it a couple times

if you already have the dropped A axle use it , if not a `33-`36 dropped axle should not be to hard to come by

 

Me? .......I'd mod the A axle rather than the 32 Bones, just in case you wanted a 32-36 axle later in the build. My point is the A axle is worth like 10$ on a good day, and 32 bones are worth helluva lot more if unmolested.

.

 

I'd machine the axle or sell it and get a 33/36 axle which when dropped looks a lot like an A axle but has the correct perch width. Don't bend the bones.

 

I'd take an angle grinder and wittle that axle down. That'll take all of 10 minutes. Don't over think it.

 

The current project in my shop has an A axle that was machined down to fit in 32 wishbones.

 

Wow!! I was out in the garage working away and I come back a few hours later and have 5 excellent replies to my question.

I have the dropped Model A axle already so I will plan to wittle the axle down to fit the '32 bones. Great advice to protect the expensive part.

I appreciate the quick response from all of you!! The HAMB is such an excellent resource with a great group of people.

Thank you much and Happy New Year!!

 

if it isn't split yet, sell it and get a later wishbone. you will get a tidy sum for the bone and have stronger radius rods.

 

Before you ditch the wishbone and get a later one remember that the model A and 32-34 wishbones have a wide yoke and the ‘35 and later have a very narrow yoke and the wishbone could contact your oil pan or bellhousing at the point where it passes by.

Just food for thought, ask me how I know.

Cliff Ramsdell

Oh yeah, and grind the axle, I have like 5 model A axles and only one 32 to 36.

 

bct - Thanks for the input. I never planned to split the wishbone and it was a tidy sum. I hoping it will all go together and everything will land where it will all work out.

Cliff,

Thanks for the input. I am hopeful that the wishbone will pass the pan and bell housing. I am using an 8BA with the truck pan. Let's see what happens.

Thanks,

Brian

 

I have taken later, spring forward bones, and milled the fat side to fit an A axle.

I have a 1935 set that I am about to do it to, again, as soon as I get done setting back up the manual mill at work.

 

gimpyshotrods,

Good to know. Thanks for the input!!

Brian

 

After the war they stepped some of the wishbones down as they flowed back under the frame rails, they also had a thicker wall...
no pix, pre-computer...
if you can leave them unsplit the suspension will work muck better... clearance ?

 

sloppy jalopies, Thanks for the reply. I definitely won't split them. Never liked that look and wouldn't chop up a nice '32 wishbone. I am hopeful I will be able to clear the oil pan.

Thanks,

Brian

 

leakyboatlouie,

Our cars have the same color scheme. Did you use a '32 wishbone in your build?

Thanks,

Brian

 

With the cost of 32 /34 bones, I cut a set of cheaper 40s bones to length , then chopped the cast yolk section with the ball end from a set of A wishbones, plugged the 40s bones and spliced them to the model A yolk section. A bit of work required but ended up with a cheap beefy wishbone thats spaced out to clear the box and sump,

 

red oxide,

Great suggestion. I will keep that in mind if the '32 bones don't work out.

Thanks,

Brian

 

no worries, your welcome I did it that way because 32/34 parts are pretty scarce in Scotland.. Unlike the 32/34 yolk which is flat, the A yolk has a slight curvature but it doesn't make any difference and could in some applications provide some extra clearance..

I am using an F1 x member in a model A frame, so made a receiver for the yolk that's welded to the F1 X member. It keeps everything nice and original looking..

Im not wanting to hijack the post and take things off topic to far, but it your running fenderless and used the yolk off some A bones to convert later bones your left with a pair of nice tapered components that can be cut down for lots of other parts ranging from engine mounts , shock mounts and headlight stands.. nothing goes to waste with this old Ford junk

 

Besides milling down the Model A bosses, you will also have to bend the 32 wishbone a little to get the spring perch to spring perch distance to line up. Model A axles are roughly a 1/2" narrower than the a 32-34.

 

redoxide and Corn Fed,

Thanks for the additional information. I appreciate it!!

Brian

 

Did I miss something? Why not just use a model A wishbone?
I see them for sale for practically nothing.

 

1946caddy,

It is my understanding that the Model A wishbone is too short.

Brian

 

A longer wishbone should be an additive factor to a a better quality ride.

Also, being shorter, un-split, it would need to clear whatever is over it. If you are fabricating everything, this can be accommodated. If retrofitting, not so much.

When mixing and matching, it can be a challenge to get an un-split wishbone in there.

 

I like the look of the model A yoke with later bones it also adds a bit of caster.

 

This build thread uses a Model A wishbone and seems to work OK.
Discuses it's use in the first few paragraphs.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-week-hot-rod-suspension-simplified.683868/

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/wishbones.htm

 

I can’t see why they wouldn’t fit.
I have an 8ba in my ‘32, original (not split) wishbones and axle. Tight fit but nothing hits.
Does not have the truck sump, so maybe that is an issue, although I thought the truck sump just had the clean out port added, and was the same dimensions otherwise.
Others on here will know.

 

As said in the post 8ba will fit with out cutting the firewall or splitting the bones and using the original fan setup on the 49-53 flathead. In fact you should have more room being the model a body is a bit shorter. You’ll be lining the body to match the rear wheel wells to the frame kick up. Remember the 1930 1931 hood is 30 inches and the 1932 is 32 inches so you’ll have more room on the body but the engine and transmission will be in the original 1932 location.
I understand that you have a dropped model a axle already but if it was me i would look for a later 1932 to 1936 axle

 

This is the reason why I say I would look for a different axle. The difference between the model A axle to a 1932 1934 length axle is over a inch in width. This will change the axle angle by pinching the 1932 wish bone a inch to fit your axle. This may cause bumbsteer with the axle angle being changed . It doesn’t sound like a lot but when driving it does and as it wears the death wobble gets worse.
The top picture shows one end lined up and the other shows the difference over all with smaller differences but are off = red 1933-34 ,black model A and Brownish !932

 

Lay the axles ON TOP of each other. Measuring the spread on the bottom of one axle to the narrower top of the other is not correct.