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Projects 1932 Ford Steel Dash

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by jcwalker215, Dec 30, 2018.

  1. jcwalker215
    Joined: Feb 15, 2017
    Posts: 20

    jcwalker215
    Member
    from Horsham PA

    Hello.
    I was hoping a fellow HAMBer could help me with some experience on as simple as it would seem to installing a steel dash in my coupe. I removed an older wood dash from my car and replaced it with union pacific steel dash. When tightening the top 3 screws it seems that there is a air gap between the mounting holes in the dash and the original steel brace. I dont want to dish the steel holes in the dash. How tight should these screws be? Also the dash seems a little flimsy were the column drop is. Will this become tighter when i install the column or do i need some bracing?
    Thanks Guys.
    Jeff 20181230_103418.jpeg

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  2. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,117

    Andy
    Member

    The factory had rubber washers between the dash and the rail.
     
  3. Itchy-Pit
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 513

    Itchy-Pit
    Member

    Andy beat me to it.
     
  4. Itchy-Pit
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 513

    Itchy-Pit
    Member

    And that looks like 33/34 Ford Pickup dash to me
     

  5. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    I don't think so... afp-1933-dash-01.jpg
     
  6. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,397

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    I have a United Pacific dash in my 5 window and I went to the local Ace hardware and in their selection of special fasteners found some hard rubber washers to use for spacers. I glued them to the dash and they worked great. Mine was fine when bolted down tight and I just bolted the Limeworks column drop in the stock spot, no problem.
     
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  7. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    If the top recesses [inward] is truck...'32, '33 '34.
    The '32 car had that top section [strip] extrude towards the driver...
    The '32 car and truck look the same head on from distance...
    .
    IMOO....I would run a 3/4" or so brace left to right, out of sight, I would mount the column to or through it...
    It and the dash should stiffen a bunch... but remember, when you cut the dash center out for gauges/ speedo you weaken the whole dash...
     
  8. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    The upper structure had the innie and outie, early or late versions. The profile line underneath the instrument cluster of the original post is clearly for a car. The pic I posted is pickup.
     
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  9. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    Big Duece is correct, Sloppy is mistaken.
     
    sloppy jalopies and lurker mick like this.
  10. dirt car
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,045

    dirt car
    Member
    from nebraska

    Either the early or late 32 car dash will fit if in fact it is a passenger car, the pickup dash while the same in appearance (I'm talking 32 ) will not line up with the holes & has a slightly different arch to it.
     
  11. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,372

    Fordors
    Member

    There are also differences regarding the Commercial Car dashes with the ‘32 dash having the large oval hole in the stamping using a separate gauge panel that is supported by the dash tunnel. The tunnel for the Commercial Car is shorter in length to accommodate the shorter cowl. Very early Model B cars and the Commercial (pickup and Station Wagon) gauge panels were painted black but that was soon changed to all ‘32’s having the engine turned panel. ‘33 and ‘34 dashes have integral gauge panels with individual holes for the gauges stamped in the dash.
     
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  12. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,625

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Can't recall the thickness of the rubber 'washers' in my '32 five window (it was in 1956)
    Are you using a modified version of the dash tunnel to firewall? If not, a brace (square tube) from under dash left to right is strongly recommended, as the steering mast jacket triangulates strength in dash. Mount the column drop to a secure base, not sheet metal!
     
  13. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    have heard of the early innie but never owned one... thanks mike.
     
  14. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,397

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    As far as the dash needing extra bracing in a steel car for the column, I've got 5 steel deuces with Limeworks column drops bolted to the bottom of the dash and they are solid as a rock. The columns are also bolted securely to the firewall. Most 32 Dashes are supposed to have double sheet metal in the column drop area. In doing 30+ deuce steel car builds this way, many of them roadsters I have never had any problems or complaints from customers. Henry didn't need extra bracing! I think the square tube along the bottom of the dash is a good idea in a glass car.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2018
  15. jcwalker215
    Joined: Feb 15, 2017
    Posts: 20

    jcwalker215
    Member
    from Horsham PA

    Thanks Guys. I will come up with some kind of rubber washers. Not looking foward to pull the dash out again. Already started to wire it. Im a complete rookie with 32's. This is my first.

    Hey Krylon32
    Im planning to also use a limeworks column and drop when i get the seat upholstered first for fit. You said you had no problems with your set up. Did your dash have an insert like mine.

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    56 Dodge Pickup likes this.
  16. 59Tele
    Joined: Feb 5, 2016
    Posts: 129

    59Tele

    You may want to try some rubber faucet washers. They come in different diameters and thicknesses.
     
  17. jcwalker215
    Joined: Feb 15, 2017
    Posts: 20

    jcwalker215
    Member
    from Horsham PA

    I took some measurements with my veneer calipers. Its amazing but i believe that the thickness of the rubber washer would have been 1/4 inch thick. My calculated gap between the dash and the pillar support came to be .260

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  18. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,397

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    I used a So-Cal 5 gauge insert in mine. I always make sure the dash has the reinforcement strip for the column drop, if not I add one. We always wire the dash with the wires grouped together and going thru a couple of plugins in case we have to remove the dash, makes it easier to remove.
     
  19. jcwalker215
    Joined: Feb 15, 2017
    Posts: 20

    jcwalker215
    Member
    from Horsham PA

    Krylon32

    Im not sure what you mean you by reinforcement. Do you mean put a small metal strip on the inside of the dash were the through holes go through?

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  20. jcwalker215
    Joined: Feb 15, 2017
    Posts: 20

    jcwalker215
    Member
    from Horsham PA

    I should have said the holes of the column drop. Like a sandwich

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  21. showrod
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 779

    showrod
    Member

    image.jpg image.jpg Here is an outie 32 closed car dash with what I believe to be original Henry rubber washers. They are about 1 diameter. You can also see the factory reinforcement for the steering mount.
    I hope this helps.
     
  22. jcwalker215
    Joined: Feb 15, 2017
    Posts: 20

    jcwalker215
    Member
    from Horsham PA

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