Hot Rods I need help to design a tilt hinge for my fiberglass front end

I need assistance! I need to design a tilt hinge for my fiberglass front end without it hitting my frame horns as it opens.

I had some scrap metal, so I quickly priced together a double hinge with stop but I think I could do something better and cleaner.

 

What were the two forward hole for before? Tow Bar or something else.

 

Original bumper hole?

 

I'd be trying to pivot (single not double) as far forward as possible so as to allow the lower nose to clear with as little over hang going back under the front end. Your cowl line on this is in your favor.

 

Did a '40 Willy's with a glass front, came off each front frame horns with a threaded Hiem Joint. Hidden benefit was being able to fine tune the sheet metal (your case Fiberglass front) gap between the cowl and front end by turning joint in or out.............................

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^a pic is worth a thousand words!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

You can design it better than we can.
Anything in front of the pivot point will go down as you open it. So the pivot point must be at the very front and low. Those big holes at the front are a perfect location for your pivot. There are only two main points two consider...the pivot point and the attachment point(s) on the flip front itself. Everything else is simply a bracket to reach from the pivot point to the attachment point...and needs to clear all other components. You need to design in at least 2 views...side view and plan (top) view or front view. Take accuate measurements, transfer the points to cardboard. Do a test...attach the carboard bracket to the pivot point and swing it through its arc to assure clearance. Transfer to metal.

 

Move your pivot point clear out to the front hole on the Frame rail. Now think Framing square for lack of a better discription only smaller. Rear leg pointed up and mounted to fenders some how. Through bolt on the horozontal leg out front. Now it goes up and out instead of just rolling over. Adjust mount points till you like how it works.

 

^^^^^ I think those holes are gone now?

 

P.S. - The shape and size of the swing-bracket and the location of the attachment point of the bracket to the flip front can be anything it needs to be...it doesn't effect the pivot point and the action.

 

Oh...right, Johnny...holes are gone.
Regardless...make pivot forward and low.

 

^^^^^ It's not so much about being right. Rather it's to let op know he's going to have to make up something to bring holes back into play.

 

A backwards "C" bracket from frame pivot to front end pivot with a lot of liberty's in the shape of the "C" taken..............................

 

If you need something to hold the front end when it is open, a couple of seat belts with reels bolted to the frame work slick.

 

I like the threaded heim joint, but would add 2 inner side brackets to put the spherical end in double shear.
Great geometry there, Johnny Gee!

 

^^^^^ I just pulled that from the net.

 

Not to sound lazy but there is no law against copying what has worked for a hundred model 77 Willys drag cars over the years.
And as the above guys have said adjustability is your friend.
May have luck calling Chuck Finders (Jr), as I'm sure you know his dad had his hands on many of the cars from the 60's, they may even sell you a pattern.

http://chuckfinders.com/index.php

 

I don't know how your firewall area comes together, but maybe you could do something that slides forward and then tilts?

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"slide in & out"
In the old days I would take a GM collapsible steering shaft, weld the out side tube/shaft inside the end of frame horn, mount the outside tube to the front end with a pivot point. Pull it out a few inches and tilt!
If the OP's '33 Willys were mine I would do like DDD say's research how the old drag coupes used to do it and follow the theme for that era. Looking at your coupe it already has established "tradition" no since in taking it another direction in this area. JMO!

 

GREAT IDEA!!
In the old days I would take a GM collapsible steering shaft, weld the out side tube/sfat inside the end of frame horn, mount the outside tube to the front end with a pivot point. Pull it out a few inches and tilt!

 

I text Chuck this morning.

 

This, brigrat has it figured
Either set your pivot out as far as possible and, or move it up so the bottom of the grill clears the ground. OR, design it to slide forward and pivot. Ive seen them on a car with what looked like roller bearing drwaer tracks except huge, sorry I dont have more details.

 

Check out the mech on 80s/90s BMW cars they have a small set of bel crank type hinges joined by a torque rod side to side under the front of the hood that lift the nose about an inch when the hoods popped then move it forward another inch or so before flipping the whole hood forward, the rear edges are held in with a small set of rollers and receiver tracks that won't let the hood fly up until the first 2 processes are completed,,,, not traditional I know but a really good system that unbolts easily and adapts easily as well I've used one on an Aussie 50s car flip front I tidied up for a mate much better than hood pins and with the addition of floating anchor nuts you'll get adjustability and a very very secure flip front when latched down


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I've seen that style marketed for F-100 Ford pickups (mid 50's), nicely made but I think it is for hoods only.

 

Zackary Wright.

 

80's era Saab 900 hood hinges. They slide out 4" or so, then tilt. Check the video in the link.

 

Not needing, but learning..... Go Peep's, Go!

 

You might try contacting Pete at Louvers Unlimited in Craryville, NY. He built a tilt front for a 34 Chevrolet if I remember correctly and it was the best I have ever seen. When released it slid forward and then tilted up thereby not contacting anything and gave open access to everything. It is quite possible he has photos.

 

My brother had an 80's LeSabre that had a hood that popped up and forward in the front then tilted forward. IIRC