I've been following along on MrModelT's thread about his T-V8. Starting at post #70 there are pix of the inside of the trans case coated with Glyptol. I googled Glyptol 'cause I'd never heard of it. Sounds like something we all should know more about. Can anyone give a 10 cent dissertation on where to use it and why? Thanx in advance. I know that within 24 hours I'll know more about it than I ever could imagine. Just one of the reasons I spend time on the H.A.M.B. every day.
Glyptal is a type of paint made for insulating the windings in electric motors magnetos and generators. It also glues the windings down and keeps them from moving. It is supposed to be impervious to heat and very durable. It is used to paint the inside of car engines and I suppose, transmissions to seal them and allow oil to drain down easier. Old sand cast aluminum motorcycle engines were sealed on the inside with some kind of paint because sand cast aluminum can be porous. But, I don't see the point of using it in a modern pressure die casting or cast iron engine block.
Glyptal was through to seal up porous castings, and aid in oil drain back (if that's what you want). I have yet to see a clear, scientifically conducted study that indicated that it is of any value, especially with modern oils. Anywhere it is mentioned, there will be a heated debate. That is a guarantee. Of the folks who swear by it, a disproportionate number of them seem to be fond of boasting of its (and their) superiority. It takes a lot of work to prep surfaces to get it to stick properly. Get it wrong, and it can take out your engine.
Simple fact...a smooth surface WILL aid oil (ANY oil) drain back over a rough surface. That could mean a paint OR grinding the surface smooth. gimpy wrote - Glyptal was through to seal up porous castings, and aid in oil drain back (if that's what you want). Of course - Why wouldn't you want the oil back in the pan as quickly as possible ? To both cool surfaces and to...lubricate..! Mike
It is used for one purpose....to get lubricant back to the sump or pan quicker.....especially in lifter galleries and other areas where oil may pool up. Is an old race trick....ive used it, then i have built engines/rears w/o it. Dont know if it really did anything or not Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Originally a General Electric product. It is an electrical insulating varnish used to encapsulate the windings in motors & generators. After it's applied it's then baked to cure.
My thought is it may add in getting oil back to the sump quicker. But the added layer of paint would it not also insults and not allow heat to dissipate as fast? It’s been used, and as stated no clear cut argument for or against.
I was kicking around doing it on my 8BA engine until my machinist said I would never get it to adhere correctly at home in my garage without an oven to dry it in properly. He said that was what Studebaker did in the 50's with their engines. He warned it would eventually clog my pump and I would have massive engine failure.
Sorry, beg to differ....very good prep is required, ie. several bouts of degreasing and then soap/water wash. Smooth the surfaces and use the grinding to lead to oil return holes...clean all over again. Apply several light coats, letting it tack up between coats. Let it set up for several hours or overnite. Light (LIGHT!) application of a heat gun, and then let sit. You are good. I have used it on many race engines, hot street engines, 9 inch rears, and several other machine cases and axles with no detrimental affects over 40 years Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I've never used it, and my stuff doesn't seem to blow up. Maybe find pics of someone else's engine block that has been painted, and show them to your friends, tell them it's the inside of your engine.
Glyptol is a GE trade name there are other products doing the same thing (insulating electrical components) today. Glyptol should only be thinned with GE approved thinners. I have used it in all my GMC racing engines since 1975. I worked in power plants for 45 years and used the product too many times to remember. Of course some of it followed me home..
How much faster can the oil drain back, even if you could reduce the friction to 0.01%? If you're building an engine for a super critical application, wouldn't a dry sump and scavenge pumps be a much more effective solution? That would of course be more expensive and complicated (and probably not HAMB-friendly), but for an all out race application it seems like a better solution.
A two part epoxy resin is used to seal helicopter transmission cases. It peels off and plugs oil galleries and pumps. Helicopters are pampered babies compared to any car, and they get torn down for inspection every 1000 hours. I then to think painting the inside of an engine subjected to massive heat cycles is moronic.
Glyptol has been used in aviation forever for its insulation properties of electrical equipment. Once dry its not coming off.
One of those FOAF stories that have been passed around garage bench racing sessions for years ,I have never seen an engine that had any damage because the oil took too long to drain back . This kind of foolishness is relative to the stories about high volume oil pumps filling up the valve covers with oil , just talking points mostly.
If your oiling system requires that much oil return speed, you have other issues. I have seen painted engines and the builder installed restrictive screens over the valley returns????. Once there is a film of oil on the surface, rough or smooth, the hot oil moves along the top at the same speed regardless. I think the main reason it was done by engine shops was that it meant an extra $35 added to the bill
The Glyptal speed test in the video shows another aspect, As the paint is an insulator, the hot oil did not cool down, but on the unpainted room temp aluminum surface the oil did the further toward the end and slowed down because the viscosity increase. Heat both covers to operating temp and try again
Well; I thought in 24 hours I'd know more than I ever wanted to know. It only took half that. Now I'm sorry I asked. But I found out what I wanted. It's a slam dunk that I'll never need to make a decision about using or not using it; I just wanted education. At this point I'll ask folks to quit responding to this and just put this sleeping dog back to sleep. Thanx for your input.
I used it on a 'super trick' engine I built for a go-fast roadster to run at Fremont drags... More trouble than it was worth...LOL Engine performed just like my other ones, then finally, in a slightly 'de-tuned' mode... was installed in my shop truck! Still runs great, super dependable. Doubt it's because of the 'Glyptol' coating! Pretty on the inside, though...
Yep, old school....Smokey Yunick, Bill Grumpy Jenkins, and such used it.... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sure, and my Grandfather used to clean his hands with turpentine and mineral spirits, after using used motor oil to kill weeds. Just because something was done in the past, does not make it a good idea.
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