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Technical 26T Coupe Of My Youth Gets A Re-do! (build)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by VA HAMB, Dec 6, 2018.

  1. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    Deck lid looking good. Even the "before" picture looks better than mine. Been procrastinating on working on it for a long time. Just coming up with better excuses to put it off longer.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  2. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    Usually takes me four beers before I actually can cut anything! LOL! I get the same way, it comes in waves. I find that once I get going I can't stop, and if I stop i can't get going.
     
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  3. 1low52
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 383

    1low52
    Member

    That's what she said.
     
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  4. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,401

    catdad49
    Member

    ^Had to stop teeheeing first! Good for him, education is very important. Took some welding courses at TCC and the instructor spend a lot of years at the shipyard. Some of the younger students went from school directly to the apprenticeship program there. If I was a little younger, I would definitely check into one of there programs. I'd be surprised if he doesn't create an awesome piece for the T.
     
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  5. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,286

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @VA HAMB
    I have thoroughly enjoyed your thread so far. What did you paint the frame with?
     
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  6. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,095

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Yeah it looks like you’d have enough room to sneak the links under the Z. I doubt that rear spring compresses more than 2 inch under even extreme conditions so you really don’t need a crazy amount of clearance
     
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  7. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    LOL! I'm ashamed to say but it was Majic paint from Tractor Supply. I got a few fish eyes in it that pissed me off but the paint really laid down very nice. (I think I had moisture in the line)
     
  8. Maicobreako
    Joined: Jun 25, 2018
    Posts: 144

    Maicobreako
    Member

    I'm curious, if the front wishbones (?) are outside the frame, why do the rear ladders need to be inside?
     
    Stogy likes this.
  9. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,366

    31Apickup
    Member

    You can get away with it on the front as an I beam will flex, whereas the rear axle will not.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  10. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,913

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    While the front suspension is not ideal either, it is less critical because a beam axle will twist slightly allowing some independent movement of the front wheels. Since it is a forging, it will take this slight flexing in stride. (I think we have all seen the picture of the Ford beam axle twisted 3 or four times.) The rear axle housing, being heavier and of tubular construct will not twist at all, which is the problem. For this reason, conventional wisdom says not to use parallel front radius rods with a tube axle because it is more rigid than a beam axle. See post #16 in this thread : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/twisted-beam-axle-safe.786627/

    ("31Apickup" beat me to it.)
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2018
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  11. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    I am pretty much getting caught up to real time now. I did this about a week ago. The rail below the door was hitting the bottom of the door so i had to cut it out so the door would close. I cut about a 1/2" off it and welded it back. The rail was about 3" too short. I cut it out so long ago I can't remember why. So I cut it in half and filled in the middle with a couple pieces I cut out of small sq. tubing.
    IMG_7505.JPG IMG_7509.JPG IMG_7515.JPG
     
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  12. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    One thing that I was quite happy with was the passenger side door. When I got it in 1983 the door handle was shaved but the driver's was not. That always bugged me. (OCD) Well when I stripped the paint off the body I found the original handle holes were filled with abrazing. So I carefully removed the brass and was able to run a tap back through the original handle mount holes and viola! Now I have a door handle! The original latch was missing the square piece to receive the handle shaft so i had to buy a new repop mechanism which works great BTW!! I plan on now replacing the drivers door latch also.
    IMG_7542.JPG
     
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  13. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    So this is pretty much how I have spent most of my time in garage lately. SANDING! I have done a little body work before but nothing complete like this. The cowl has been a bear to get "right" I always seem to find a tiny little low spot somewhere and I end up chasing it sround for a day or so. I now have the body pretty damned straight. I have just a few very slight low spots in the rear quarters that I can see when i cast a light on it so I'll have to smooth those out and then I'll be ready. Doors Next. Also the top!
    IMG_7541.JPG IMG_7544.JPG IMG_7545.JPG
     
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  14. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

  15. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,913

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The body is turning out great! It's kind of amazing all of the things that can pop up when you really get into something like this! Keep at it. Are you going to painting it yellow again? My original "T" was yellow, which was unusual back in those days, but I really liked it. I'm rebuilding the car with a touring body so I can have a reasonable amount of interior room this time around, and I'm thinking that yellow, while fine for a smaller car (bucket or coupe), might be a bit much on a tub.:rolleyes:
     
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  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    Still have the Peerless radiator shell?
     
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  17. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    This is a great read. Pretty soon I will have to take my car apart and do the dreaded bodywork and am not looking forward to having parts all over the place. Everyone seems to be critical of your rear suspension - and I'm included in that bunch since my radius rods are angled towards the center too. But if you look at the suspension under an old Mopar "K" car, they have a dead axle back there with the control arms running parallel at the sides and I haven't heard of any issues there. Lot of T buckets were built this way. Where are the guys with first hand experience with this setup?
     
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  18. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    I had an old "T bucket" rearend, actually a beautifully fully chromed 57 Chevy rear, that had this exact same parallel ladder bar arrangement. Right next to one of the brackets was a crack running up the axle housing tube.
     
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  19. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,913

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Killed in car accidents caused by failure of the rear suspension?
     
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  20. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,589

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Guys, you're being ridiculous. There must be a million hot rods running around with parallel rear radius arms. Nobody is going to argue that it's the best way to set up a rear suspension, but it's been done countless times over the past 70 - 80 years, and the crashes that have killed the owners because of failed rear suspensions haven't made headlines. Go ahead, find all the news articles and post up the links here.
     
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  21. Great job, it looks great.
     
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  22. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,913

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In my best Foghorn J. Leghorn voice : "That's a joke, son!".
     
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  23. Maicobreako
    Joined: Jun 25, 2018
    Posts: 144

    Maicobreako
    Member

    Thanks for the answer
     
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  24. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    Yep! Can you tell me something about it?
     
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  25. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    Yea this had some cracks also. I do however have a 32 sedan with parallel ladder bars in the rear that was built that way in 1969 and I have no issues with it. Maybe I should look a little closer. This rear spring in this T is so stiff that I seriously doubt that the rear would actually move anyway. LOL! But seriously I'm still looking at how I may change it.
     
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  26. Screen Shot 2018-11-27 at 12.37.24 PM.png
    Very inspiring thread. Don't mean to hi-jack you're excellent, but here's a shot of mine on the right next, to Mercury Charlie's T. We're working on them side by side to see who's can take longer. Ha.
     
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  27. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,406

    alchemy
    Member

    Peerless was an aftermarket company that offered a radiator that supposedly had better cooling than Ford's radiator. They came with a shell also. I don't know how long they were in business because I've only seen the shells for Model T Fords.
     
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  28. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    Awesome. I reallt like Charlie's T. I really want mine flat black like his. I just don't want to be a copy cat but I like the look. I like those those tail lights. They Galaxy?
     
  29. LSJUNIPER
    Joined: Aug 17, 2010
    Posts: 243

    LSJUNIPER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from ct

    That's me too. But with out the beer. Four beers for me equals nap time.
     
  30. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    IMG_1697.JPG IMG_1701.JPG IMG_1704.JPG IMG_1885.JPG IMG_1904.JPG IMG_1906.JPG IMG_2492.JPG IMG_2810.JPG
     

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