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Hot Rods Spinning wheel stud

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeremy Shay, Dec 9, 2018.

  1. Jeremy Shay
    Joined: Jul 11, 2009
    Posts: 359

    Jeremy Shay
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Trying to save as many parts as possible, and searching for ideas....

    I’m guessing I will end up hacking off the crown of the nut and drilling out the stud, but my inclination is that I could wedge something in between a bolt that treads through an empty hole the spindle.... I already tried a socket but it refused to hold the stud in.

    IMG_5100.JPG
    IMG_5101.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  2. Mig weld the head. Take it apart..Fix it right.
     
    chevy57dude likes this.
  3. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,451

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Start drilling the stud, through the nut with a small bit. Try to get a close to center as you can. Keep increasing the size of the bit till the nut falls off.



    Bones
     
    pat59 likes this.
  4. X2 on what Mark said. Tack that sucker to the hub, grind it loose after you pull it all apart.
     

  5. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,783

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I recently did the procedure that Boneyard51 described. Worked well.
     
  6. Raunchy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2007
    Posts: 379

    Raunchy
    Member

    Weld a piece of strap an old bolt or something similar to the stud and let it swing around to jam against the rotor then take the lugnut off and replace the stud.
     
  7. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,076

    gene-koning
    Member

    I have successfully welded the stud to the hub, or welded something to the side of the stud, and I have drilled out the stud from the front. If you have access to the back side, welding the stud to the hub is the fastest and easiest, provided the lug nut wasn't really zinged in super tight before it started spinning. Welding something to the side of the stud only works if the lug nut wasn't super tight.
    Drilling the stud from the front is the cleanest way to do it, as long as you get that first hole drilled in the center. Gene
     
  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,943

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What you are trying there might work if you can get a nut on the other side of the tab on the spindle so you can crank down on the stud. Or you might just weld that bolt to the stud and put a wrench on the bolt and worry about cutting the bolt when you get the rest of it apart.
    Outside of having to bleed the brake (s) taking the brake hose loose, popping the tire rod end out of the spindle and popping the ball joints loose lets you pull the whole thing off and get it up on a work surface where you can attack it a lot easier.
     
  9. Kerrynzl
    Joined: Jun 20, 2010
    Posts: 2,950

    Kerrynzl
    Member

    Mig weld a bolt to the back of it , so you can get a wrench or socket to hold it.
    Then knock it out after the wheel is removed.

    90% of the time, the spline on the stud strips so a replacement is all it needs
     
  10. I'd drill it out.
     
    kbgreen likes this.
  11. I would think that if the stud is spinning then trying to drill it would also make it spin. I would try tack welding it on the back first. Then it might drill or turn loose.
     
  12. Why ruin the lug nut? Or are we talking about drilling it from the rear, possibly at an angle?
     
  13. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,661

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Many good ideas given thus far. Lets get back to this comment. I can not tell by this photo but your wording suggests there is a hex head on this side? If yes (makes since a socket and universal doesn't have room to fit) why not make a custom wrench with a socket and strap steel bent to suit and welded together?
     
  14. Jeremy Shay
    Joined: Jul 11, 2009
    Posts: 359

    Jeremy Shay
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    No 'hex-head' on the stud... I was just hoping the pressure applied by the bolt might hold the socket and stud 'still'. I like the idea of welding, and have just enough room to likely get my gun in there.


     
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  15. Do you have room on the backside to weld a long hex nut to the backside of the stud, holding it in place by the bolt you show (or smaller diameter one if need be)while welding it? Then remove the bolt and put a wrench on the long nut to keep it from spinning.
     
  16. Jeremy Shay
    Joined: Jul 11, 2009
    Posts: 359

    Jeremy Shay
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Well, it’s off. Looks like it had an aluminum insert. So the mig didn’t like that....

    Wilwood??? No clue. ‘Newer to me’ car. Rotor has seen better days as well.

    IMG_5104.JPG

    IMG_5103.JPG


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    warhorseracing and Johnny Gee like this.

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