Trying to save as many parts as possible, and searching for ideas.... I’m guessing I will end up hacking off the crown of the nut and drilling out the stud, but my inclination is that I could wedge something in between a bolt that treads through an empty hole the spindle.... I already tried a socket but it refused to hold the stud in. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Start drilling the stud, through the nut with a small bit. Try to get a close to center as you can. Keep increasing the size of the bit till the nut falls off. Bones
Weld a piece of strap an old bolt or something similar to the stud and let it swing around to jam against the rotor then take the lugnut off and replace the stud.
I have successfully welded the stud to the hub, or welded something to the side of the stud, and I have drilled out the stud from the front. If you have access to the back side, welding the stud to the hub is the fastest and easiest, provided the lug nut wasn't really zinged in super tight before it started spinning. Welding something to the side of the stud only works if the lug nut wasn't super tight. Drilling the stud from the front is the cleanest way to do it, as long as you get that first hole drilled in the center. Gene
What you are trying there might work if you can get a nut on the other side of the tab on the spindle so you can crank down on the stud. Or you might just weld that bolt to the stud and put a wrench on the bolt and worry about cutting the bolt when you get the rest of it apart. Outside of having to bleed the brake (s) taking the brake hose loose, popping the tire rod end out of the spindle and popping the ball joints loose lets you pull the whole thing off and get it up on a work surface where you can attack it a lot easier.
Mig weld a bolt to the back of it , so you can get a wrench or socket to hold it. Then knock it out after the wheel is removed. 90% of the time, the spline on the stud strips so a replacement is all it needs
I would think that if the stud is spinning then trying to drill it would also make it spin. I would try tack welding it on the back first. Then it might drill or turn loose.
Many good ideas given thus far. Lets get back to this comment. I can not tell by this photo but your wording suggests there is a hex head on this side? If yes (makes since a socket and universal doesn't have room to fit) why not make a custom wrench with a socket and strap steel bent to suit and welded together?
No 'hex-head' on the stud... I was just hoping the pressure applied by the bolt might hold the socket and stud 'still'. I like the idea of welding, and have just enough room to likely get my gun in there.
Do you have room on the backside to weld a long hex nut to the backside of the stud, holding it in place by the bolt you show (or smaller diameter one if need be)while welding it? Then remove the bolt and put a wrench on the long nut to keep it from spinning.
Well, it’s off. Looks like it had an aluminum insert. So the mig didn’t like that.... Wilwood??? No clue. ‘Newer to me’ car. Rotor has seen better days as well. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app