Projects Bonneville Build

A group of us are building a T roadster to race at Bonneville in the G/BGMR Class. I have started a build diary on Landracing.com as Wicked6. Anyone on here with experience is invited to comment and give constructive advice.
I would post it on here except our power source is not HAMB friendly.(05 Blown Ecotec 4).
Suspension is all hot rod, 37 Ford front axle and split wishbones, 9” Ford rear on split wishbones.
Thanks, Pat.

 

very Cool - planning for 2019 run?

 

I know you are probably wanting to keep it looking like a conventional roadster, but you should seriously consider moving the driver back closer to the rear axle. That way you can lay down a little and get the cage lower. You will also be more comfortable in the car. Here is an oldie but a goodie.


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That is the plan

 

Or this...

 

Keith and Katey Young now own this famous modified which has past through many owners. It has had many different engines, blown/unblown Ford/ GM but I believe it currently has one of their 12 port Wayne GMC's in it.

 

I used that same Speedway nose on my roadster to run in V4F/FMR some years ago. With the grill. Thought it was ugly. Fit right in where the insert is in my 32 shell. Gave it away when I went back to roadster class. I might be able to get it back if you want.

 

Thanks for the offer Rich, but we just bought this one
We need more pics of what goes on under the bodywork!
We’re moving along best we can at the moment doing what we know should work.

 

Modifieds can have belly pans. Close it all in if you can. You can come down from the body and cover everything including all driveline and suspension parts. You only need drains under the engine most use rear facing louvers, one or two will do. Follow whats written in the rule book. Read the section for 'vintage catagory" along with "modified roadsters". Then look to "definitions".
I would advise you to take photos of how things attached prior to body parts if you can't see them with the body on and include them with your log book that will help with inspection.
I'll follow the build on Landracing and PM you if I see something.. Above all have fun...

 

Thank you for following along. We do intend to run a full pan. I think we will be moving the seat and cage rearward from my drawing.
How much fuel do you think we should carry on board?

 

Good luck Pat! We currently are fortunate enough to have the G/BFR and G/BGR records. Also with an Ecotec.
If you need any pictures or help please feel free to contact me. See you on the salt. Go fast!!!

 

. . . looks like a rust-free body.

 

That not only looks like fun but well thought out for a change. Plus you have the attention of some gents with some serious knowledge and if they don't have it they sure know who does.
I may have to pack my tent and sleeping bag and head in that direction next August.

 

Todd 553, thank you for th offer of pics and being invited to pick your brain. Other than having extensive knowledge and experience of building stree/hot rods, we are complete newbies to Bonneville Car construction.
Some questions if you don’t mind, what transmission and rear end are you using. Are you using a radiator or recirculating water?
I see you are using a turbo, we are going with the twin screw belt driven supercharger that comes on the SS. We are fitting the smaller pulley to get the boost up to around 14psi.
I will send you a message and will ask more there.
Thank you

 

Looking good Pat.


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We use a water tank and intercooler tank. We also use a QC rear and a turbo 400 trans. we run 32 PSI on the turbo and made around 950hp. I'll email some pics and info.

 

When Al Holoway built my car, he had an intercooled turbo SBC . He used an ice water tank with the exchanger inside it, He had a similar tank for the trans cooler. I didn't need that stuff and may still have it around here.

 

Great to see a fellow Canadian building s Bonneville car. Where in Canada are you?

 

Vancouver BC

 

That's because it's glass....

 

This is the trans cooler. The intercooler seems to be history.

 

What are the approximate dimensions? It looks OK. I guess they’re the tranny line fittings in the bottom.

 

Set the caster at 13 degrees today and built a spring clamp. Going to make up an adjustable mount for it tomorrow.
Picked up the ‘18 Rulebook

 

You don't need to go nuts with caster. Mine has 9* with the 28" rear tires and less with the 32" I went 215 using. I've never had a problem with shimmy or anything. It does not have a stabilizer either. I used a non powered sprint car box slowed down using a short arm.

 

Well I have gone to 12.5degrees, so that’s set now. We too intend to use Sprint type steering, and it looks like an automatic transmission, so we will have a LH brake pedal.
I’m sure we will have our moments of trying to fit everything into a compact package. We opted to keep our WB shorter rather than longer. We’re at 112”. My biggest concern at this point in construction is the seating position, the driveshaft placement and the interior panels that need to be “sealed”.
Built an adjustable spring perch today

 

My interior side panels are not sealed. Each one between the side cage parts are duezed in and are tight fitting. They are to keep your body parts from leaving the driver area in the case of an incedent where the vehicle body leaves the frame/cage. Before a rule revision they were left open.

The step pan (in mine) is sealed as well as the area behind me to protect from a rear fire which can be "sucked" in. However my style has a floorboard in the rear to seal out fire/dust.
Modifeds to not require "floorboards" but in the rear they can sometimes be a way of sealing off the underside to keep fire out.

. Modifieds also allow belly pans which can seal off the lower portion of the vehicle. Then the driveshaft should protect from the driver for its entire length. Sitting on top of the driveshaft causes different problems than sitting beside it.

Since you are building a Modifed which does not resemble today's low slung styles it is harder to find what was done in the style you are doing to meet the newer/changed safety rules which now apply. Question can always be asked of the roaster committee chair listed in the rule book. Remind him when asking your questions of your cars style.

Keep going and don't give up.

 

Tank is 23 long. 9 1/4 wide and 11 tall.

 

Thank you Rich, we can most likely use it. How much would you like for it.

 

Jimmy six, I have sent a message to the man in charge, regarding this very thing. Where does the floor “have to be”, that’s the question I need an answer to.
We want to sit beside the driveshaft, not straddle it. We are striving to build a 160mph Car, that looks a little like an old school lakes car. We are, after all, a bunch of Hot Rod builders.
One of our group is also an instructor at the local British Columbia Institute of Technology in automotive repair, and is in the process of figuring out what has to be done to get the motor and trans working in a Model T. He has already mastered getting his own Ecotec running in his Model A Tudor, with his own side stack injection.
Thanks for the info guys.
Pat