Glen, heating and bending any steering components wont be accepted in Australia, regardless of engineer involvement. No engineer (that i'm aware of) would approve it either. It weakens the material substantially, especially if its cast. I'd suggest moving the steering box to locate the pitman arm where it needs to be, while still maintaining correct steering geometry to avoid bump steer.
Thanks for reply, my engine mount is in the way and limits where steering box can go ( I probably will have to make new engine mount ). Dimpled grille came out ok but not sure about shade of paint - used black hammer tone, may change to a gloss black similar to body color, What do others recommend. Glen
Re mounted grille and changed colour to gloss black, also ordered some dropped steering arms that will give me more options for steering box location. Glen
As Tim said "Man the way those coil overs are mounted on what amounts to a flimsy tab makes me cringe." .I am kind of surprised no one picked up on that sooner. I see you have cut them out and judging from the way this build is going I am doubtful you will put them back in as they were. Nice work. I have friends in Brisbane and I'm aware of the hoops you have to jump through to please the government inspectors
Pulled body off yesterday, not easy by myself but I got there in the end after I made a table / trolley, now the fun begins. Also received my rear disc brake kit a few weeks ago - I might change the bolt on caliper mounts to a weld on unit. A few pics of progress. Glen
Glen... Very nice coupe, nicer fabrication going. That looks like a 2" x 4" rec. tube 'Custom built' frame...possibly the Model A VIN was restamped on the bottom. You mentioned 'Glass', (windshield/windows) What is the difference between Canada standards and O-Z? Reason for asking: California has different standards than Europe, (bumpers, etc.) as experienced by 'gray market buyers' of Euro Mercedes, BMW in years past. A friend bought a Range Rover from O-Z, and on receiving it at the Port Authority, we had to remove ALL glass, wheels/tyres, and even the 'bonnet', for Dep't of Transportation, as they were deemed 'Ca. Sub standard'... What is the 'glass' designation down unda? Thanks...Mike
Mike the regs state that all glass needs to be automotive standard safety glass, my car came with all new glass that previous owner had made to suit. Unsure of exact specs as the street rod guidelines im using dont give that detail, they refer to some appendix in some other fancy section of the automotive guidelines. You must have some extremely tough rules - wheels / tyres /bonnet, thats outrages. And yes there is a number stamped under the frame on left side. I will note it down and see if I can find out if it is original. I have been working on car today, made trolley more stable with more bracing and cleaned garage ready to remove engine / trans to measure chassis to see what im dealing with, will post pics tonight. Thanks also for the kind words, Glen
Cleaned shed yesterday, removed engine from chassis, ran a tape measure over chassis - all ok so far. Found number on chassis, left side on bottom. A4 106478 anyone no if this is a original number, I no its not in original spot on chassis. Glen
Started on chassis chassis today, will do one section at a time before moving to next. Started on rear chassis ( will have fish plates and gussets ) and plan is to complete rear end mounting to determne where centre X member will locate - current centre cross member will be in way of upper 4 link mounts and is not the currect size tube, it needs to be 4 x 2 tube with diaganals to form a K member. A few pics. Glen
Left side of chassis was out 6 mm / 1/4 inch, had to modify, see pics. Welded chassis after repair today , all within 1 mm, happy with result despite no jig ( you guys need to go metric, much easier than imperial ). Glen
A few pics of today's progress, removed old cross member and installed a new K member. Put front end and engine back in to determine pinion angle and check wheel base, will probably need to make some new brackets to mount the rear as the ones supplied with the 4 link kit may not be suitable. Glen
A few pics of today's progress, set up pinion angle and wheel base then tack welded housing in place to make it easier to fab mounts / mount 4 link. Glen
A few pics from today, made some 4 link mounts for bottom bar to chassis and mocked up the rear. Nice and easy with rear tacked in place, able to work at a nice height. Glen
Finished mounting shocks today, now need to finish weld everything. Happy with result, all working ok - no binding and all square. Rear end is currently set at the height of old unit, I can move up or down by one inch. Glen
Finish welded the rear housing and K member etc, also machined up some plates to make my gearbox cross member removable. Glen
Wow, they’re killing all the fun!! I thought Australia was all like no rules, just run wild. In the state I’m in here in the USA, the mechanic was like “cool car. Here’s your sticker. “ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You've sure been busy. Looking good and strong. Just hoping for your sake, you have enough triangulation to avoid needing a panhard.
I will be adding a panhard to front suspension and will add to the rear if required - easy to do at present, better now than later. I have been looking on google for minimum and maximum angles for top bar bar placement for triangled four link suspension without success. I feel what I have will be ok, but am willing to add panhard if others have had issues - please let me know. I always appreciate advice from those that have experience - and been there before. Thanks again, here are a few pics of today's progress, I managed to complete gearbox mount and start on installing new front cross member - will lower front approx 1/2 inch and with removal of he first small leaf spring total amount lowered with be approx 3/4 of an inch. Glen
Lots of info on upper bar angles right here on the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/4-link-angle.759673/
Thanks for info, looks like my upper bars are approx 20 degrees when the minimum is about 30 degrees, will need to add a panhard bar now. A few pics of todays progress, got front cross member where it needs to be and started making boxing plates for underneath, here are a few pics. Glen
Made some shock mounts, happy with result so far. Also needed to make a new spring mount as radiator was hitting the U bolts due to new cross member. I Also brought some used panhard bars from local wreckers to make front and rear units. A few pics, Glen
Machined and threaded some bungs today and made two adjustable panhard bars, will make mounts soon on my next days off. I will then cut them to length and tig weld bungs in, a few pics Glen
Awesome work but have to humbly ask, Do you think the up and down travel of the rear diff will ever be a concern where the drive shaft passes under that rear crossmember?
Unsure about tailshaft to crossmember clearance as yet, nil issues with old crossmember but will determine when I put engine, trans and body back on, may need small scallop - will wait and see. Heater was $30.00 ebay item, not sure what it came out off, just cleaned and painted it. A few pics of todays progress - mock up of panhard bar. Glen
The Jalopy Journal
