Long time fan of the knowledge here. I have a c-4 transmission and 8 inch rear , out of a 77 maverick, in my model A build . over the years I somehow lost the drive shaft. No old fords in the yards anymore ,so I am asking if anybody has found a good shaft to cut down to fit .Any help or comments ? By the way, does anybody's better half talk about how much time you spend on the Hamb Thanks JimB
I simply bought a driveshaft from Speedway Motors. They offer a selection covers for several hot rod type installations. It was way cheaper than the local driveline shop wanted to shorten a used shaft. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have used a bunch of these, including in my daily driver: https://pitstopusa.com/c-132635-drivetrain-driveshafts-steel-driveshafts.html
if you can find a driveshaft out of just about any small block or 6 cylinder, automatic transmission equipped Ford car from the mid 60s-mid 80s, it ought to work. Check the U joint size and yoke splines before you buy. And the length, make sure it's not too short. If you can't find any junkyards with cars like that (it's getting difficult these days), there are plenty of places that make new ones. usually several in every big city. You probably need a shaft with 1310 U joints, but measure things first to make sure.
Yup. Always bust out the calipers and verify the u-joint sizes (yes both/all). I have seen plenty of things on bone-stock cats that are said to not exist. I have seen a whole lot of 1330's where 1310's should have been. I can only assume parts shortages necessitating grabbing the next best thing. If you do find a weird combo, there are adapter u-joints, that go between just about everything, and every other thing else. I just put a 1310/3R combo joint in a customer's truck. It was easier to use a $150, brand new 1310 driveshaft, with a 1310 transmission yoke, and the combo joint to a GM rear axle.
I had a new driveshaft made for my Ford and it ran me $300. He used 3.5" tubing, all Neapco and Spicer parts, I supplied the front yoke. My rear at the time took a 1310 yoke so that's what I had them build up for me. I could have had the yoke swapped to a 1330 when I got the posi rear for it. Also check Denny's Driveshafts online. He has work sheets to help you get what you need.
Running a Ford 9 inch and a toploader 4 speed in my A and had one built by a local Fleetpride for $300 also. They build them for big rigs so mine was pretty easy for them. I supplied the front yoke as well.
If you end up with a ford donor shaft, make sure you measure the cap size on it. Ford made two hybrid u joints to mate smaller shafts to the 8". 1310-bc and 1330-bc. 1.062" shaft and 1.125 pinion. One out of a fox body mustang should work.
Thanks for info folks I called a shop in Ohio , Told him what I was needing ,gave me a quote of $ 325 with new slip yolk, tube and joints. At my VA hospital appointment today ,was talking to a guy who said get an early AOD slip yolk and ranger drive shaft .change yolks ,cut to length ,make sure it was phased properly. Weld up and good to go for less than $50 . Yes I know a good welder who can do the job. JimB.
Walked into my regular driveshaft shop (Axle Exchange/Fast Shafts in Des Moines, IA, started using them in late '80's in our dirt cars) about 11:30 this morning and handed over the yoke I bought earlier (to get the correct measurements). Think I paid $60 for the yoke. Gave him the length, he asked about engine and uses (since he knew we retired from racing) and made his suggestion. 2" x .120 wall moly, no paint. Shaft is only 29-1/2" long center to center. He said come back at 2:00 and pick up the finished shaft. 1:45 I showed up and it was done. Great service and workmanship. Out the door cost, balanced and assembled with all new parts, $159. What's not to like? SPark
I've got a course spline, short tail shaft powerglide and an eight inch rear in my 'A'. Front half of a'69 ford van worked perfectly. Used the same 'U' joints front and rear and didn't have to cut it. 79 Firebird in the Turbo 400/9" in the 57 PU. Mix and match 'U' joints. (Different length crosses and diameters, internal and external clips) Tape measure at the local Pick-a-Part.
This is a huge help for figuring out what you need for u-joints and has a great cross reference towards the end of it. First pages have diagrams of almost anything you will need to ID what you have. http://www.carquestprofessionals.com/catalogs/drivetrain/2013_UJ_CATALOG_CQ.PDF
Hold the phone! There is so more to building drive lines than just cut and weld. The u-joints have to be in phase and the yokes welded on straight with no runout. Also need to consider critical speed vs drive line length and diameter. I built drive lines for a while in the 1990’s at a truck shop I worked for. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hi, and Good morning .Yes Safety is very important ,I have preached that to co-workers for years. But my first drive shaft I shorten and changed yolk on was a 55 Pontiac with a 421. Childhood buddy drove it from Ky. to 29 Palms to get his brother and bring him home ,trip took about 36 or 39 hours don't remember for sure. CRS I think. no vibs or breakage then or after 2 years then car was totaled at very high speed . Since then I have welded up shafts for drives on printing presses, trucks and machinery. And there are no older vehicles in yards around here ,all went down river to China
Just a quick pedantic rant: Unless you have mastered welding the yellow portion of the contents of an egg, to steel, or aluminum, it is a yoke. Ox yoke: U-joint yoke: Yolk:
I feel so ashamed at the misspelling of YOKE in my comment that I am going to hide in my garage from now on! And never ask a question on here again. Till the next time somebody or spellcheck screws up Don't go anywhere you might miss it. JimB.
Don’t feel too bad, the “U-joint” yoke in the above picture was actually a differential pinion yoke! I’m didn’t mean to preach about drive lines, I apologize, I did not know what your experience was. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd trust your welding on shafts if I run out of .035 wire..or eyesight... lol. You've been on here a long time, and we used to hear "don't HEAT & Bend your steering arms!!!" or "only a fool would run drums or single circuit brakes or bias tires". I think hambers chased off most of those skirt wearing "keyboard builders" by now. (but...Mommy still gives them warm milk with their cookies) ..all my favorite GF's are still married, or way too young. ....thank goodness. . .