I picked up a 64 SS impala 4 speed 3.36 posi last year. THe car unfortunately no longer has the original (327 300hp) engine but as luck would have it my wife's grandfather just happened to have a mostly complete 300hp 327 CE engine just sitting on his garage floor. My plan is to stick with 2 valve relief flat tops, use the factory double hump 1.94 heads, edelbrock RPM intake, and 650dp holley, and factory 2.5 inch ram horn manifolds. Could use some help on deciding on a camshaft. I'd like to stay with a factory grind since I plan on leaving the heads stock at the moment. THe car will mainly be used for a weekend cruising, occasional road trips. I'm thinking either a GM marine grind or a L79 cam. I know there are better head/cam packages out there but I'd like to keep the engine somewhat period correct and even considering finding a c4b intake and a petronix distributor to add to the look. I know you guys/gals got more experience than I do so I'm open to suggestions.
The old standby 350 horse 327 cam is hard to beat, or the '62-'63 300 horse shaft. I'd prefer an AFB over the Holley, mounted on an iron 300 horse Chevrolet intake. With 3.36 axle, 20 MPG + superb drivability with 2.54 low 4 speed … clutch touchy with 2.20 1st.
I wouldn't put a DP holley on it. JMO. I would go with an AFB or a 600 Vac secondary holley. Cam is a toss up, 350 horse hydraulic is fine. So is the 300 hp cam. Just don't over cam it. and it will run good and give you smiles per gallon. Lippy.
I really like the Competition Cams Xtreme Energy 268 Hyd Flat Tappet cam for street small block Chevys. Pulls 1600 rpm to 5800 rpm and makes enough vacuum for power brakes, Good street manners and a nice muscle idle. You won't be disappointed using Comp Cams newer technology, This cam makes lots of torque to move a big car. ( 400 ft. lbs. in a Vortec 350 ) Running a Xtreme Energy 268 cam in a 355 s.b.c., Vortec heads using 3.73 gears and 700r4 transmission in a 1964 Chevelle and I am very happy with the results. Running a 4.5 power valve in a 750 Holley with this cam. Ran a 13.29 E.T. @ 105 mph on 225-75-15 street tires. Norb
I had a impala like yours In the mid 60s my first up grade was the L79 cam I highly recommend it. not much change under 3000 rpm but above 3000 it was a different car.
Does anyone have any experience with the gm marine cam? I have one sitting on the shelf i pulled from an engine i scrapped. From what ive read the l79 seems to have a better range though as long as the compression is there.
As far as running a carter afb, im still looking for the correct one. I also need a 64 2.5 ram horn manifold. The engine bay needs a little help to get right again.
I know this isn't the for sale section. But if you have any interest. I have a crank, rods and pistons to build a small journal 383 stroker. And a nice cam to boot. All new. P.M. or call if you want any info. Gene 410-982-4042.
My advice? Never take to heart what forums say about this sort of issue. Call the cam grinders, they are the experts at this sort of thing. What worked for me on two other engines might not work for you. Give Schneider a call for instance, tell them what you have and what your plans are. Don't get me wrong, listening to other guys advice is fine, I respect it, I appreciate it. But, I want advice from the guys that grind or manufacture cams as a business, they never let me down.
^^^^JJ gives great advice here ^^^^. Also like the idea of the factory intake and making it look stock or period correct.
If you put a Bigger Cam & Carb. You Must Change the Exhaust by Putting Header's on it! Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn & Die a Fool
2 1/2'' ram horns are all you need - sound great, don't leak, won't warp or crack … And the headpipes curve into the most perfect location for a pair of 2 1/2'' dumps in the wheelwell.
I went this route on a 67 chevy pu with a 327, 350 horse 327 Cam, cleaned up a pair of double humps ( gasket matched etc. ). 2 1/2" ram horns, factory 4 intake, reworked q_jet, reworked point distributor, turbo 400 & a 4:88 posi. Fun street truck, pass anything under 110mph except gas stations!
Original 1964 300 HP Carter AFB's: 3460s - automatic transmission 3461s - standard transmission Both are somewhat difficult to find, and somewhat pricey. If you find one that is missing the choke....LEAVE IT! Factory service carbs (if you went into a Chevrolet dealership say 1970, and ordered a new carburetor, this is what Chevrolet would have sold to you): 3720s - automatic transmission 3721s - standard transmission (Opinion) the factory service carbs have a slightly better calibration than the originals. (Fact) they are definitely more common, and less pricey, although still more than what many would feel is reasonable. EDIT: and another vote for the original 2 1/2 inch exhaust manifolds. They won't "gas" you, and you can actually listen to the Cardinal ball game while crusing to the car show Jon.
I have no intentions of running headers. I have long tubes on my 67 and i hate them. I may go as far as finding manifolds some day to just get rid of them.
Yesterday I got a call I was hoping I wasn't going to get. Yup, the block is cracked After dropping 400 into this project I'm left with something unusable when I could have done other things like a hurst shifter or had the factory tach repaired. For the time being I'm going to salvage what I can. I have the correct points distributor, a pair of double hump heads, a few rods, and a 20/20 crank that's ready to go. I have no use for the 250hp intake that was on it so I'll probably scrap it. Now the question is, do I buy a block or wait it out for someone to pull a good 327 sj in favor of a LS swap? Only problem with used is you never really know what you are getting.
I am in the same boat about building a sj 327 I went off dyno sheets. super chevy did a great write up on a l79 327 it made really nice power and torque. then I called howards and got their advice that's my 2 cents
First and foremost don't get in a hurry if you can help it, this will greatly improve your chances for success in finding the "right" block. Also no reason for "taking a chance" on blocks, the key is to buy locally and get the seller to agree to take the block back if it is found to be cracked, you already have one, you don't need another. That is what I did when I bought a Nova 327 block, the guy even reimbursed me for the magnaflux job. Curious what you mean by saying you have "a few rods", you may be money ahead by finding a complete rebuildable engine or at a minimum a short block.
Sorry about your block. Check out the American Muscle series by Howard's Cams. They have taken some of the popular factory muscle car grinds and "modernized" them a bit. Available in hydraulic and solid.
A few rods as in 2 of them were smoked. Ill keep them around for spares. Im trying to get a block a guy started on with a finished crank for 200. Trying to work out a trade deal so i can unload some stuff and offset cost from the money ive lost.
Don't know where you are at but I went on searchtempest and found small journal 327 blocks for $100 up.
I'm running the Lunati Voodoo version in my 355. This is the old part number, but here is the cam card. http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCard.aspx?partNumber=60103 I had read that the XE268 was noisy under the valve covers, the Voodoo is quiet as a mouse under the hood. But you need a decent CR to get the most out of it and a steeper gear set, the 1st gear x the rear gears should be over 9 and closer to 10 for best results. You can't let a cam lug the engine either, this is nwhy I ended up with a 3.89 rear and a 2.52 1sy dear. I run a Holley 700 DP, Dart SHP aluminum heads and the matching air-gap intake.
Blocks are out there but you have to be patient to find a 327. I prefer the '68 and up big journal ones myself and have a couple around, not for sale. 350 engines are more abundant and I like them in the '72 to '76 range, plus you get the 3.48" stroke over the 3.25" one that comes with the 327. I like to get a complete engine if possible, all the brackets for the PS, alternator, etc. The set up in my car is from a '65 or '68 Impala (I have a few of them so I don't know what is what any more).
I checked out speedway. DIdn't see the manifold I need. It's a one year only that shares with corvette so I'm sure once I find it I'm gonna have to bend over and shell out $$$$
I have a 4 bolt 350 that needs a couple pistons and is otherwise in good shape. I'm considering using it if my patience wears out. The 305HO in my 64 is in pretty good shape and the setup runs pretty good. Got 13mpg rapping it out to 3200rpm on the highway for 3 hours so it's not begging to come out yet.
here's your exhaust manifolds https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Corvette-Style-2-1-2-Inch-Ram-Horn-Exhaust-Manifolds-Pair,58966.html some people say they are junk, but i've used them in a few projects without problems, and there cheap opposed to original vette junk.
Yeah ive heard they hold up well. Problem is i need the one with the alternator mounting boss on the front. Its not so much about having the right one, i just want the damn alternator to not be cobbled with washers and spacers anymore.
just using this pic i found https://shop.docrebuild.com/1963-19...ntKitReproOfGM191163and3825452and3816822.aspx simple and easy, and looks factory
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