History Waiting for a Train - 1963 Belair

I attended the Fallout race this year and destroyed the Saginaw on my 3rd run. I truly "drove it, like I stole it". It was fun while it lasted.

 

Initially, I fixed what needed fixing. Obviously, a transmission repair / replacement is priority, but plans are to make some additional improvements. I knew the floor needed some (front brace) work, but I was pleasantly surprised when I took the carpet out.

 

I'd seen that you'd broke it, many a Saginaw have met the same fate. What'd she turn before the fun ended?
Always been a fan of this car.

 

Just read through the whole thread. Great job on a cool car! Big cars with 4 speeds are so much fun. 2nd gear shifts make the front rise & tail dip, away we go!

 

Love the 4-speed in my Ford, which I have already broken. Makes a hotrod HOT. Traction bars helped it out a lot. Digging your '63, one Chevy I still need to have one day.

 

Your shop looks great!!

 

Thanks guys/Craig...The car ran good down the track, for what it is. The upgrades I'm planning should support more HP in the future. Here's the time slip when I beat the corvette owned by 'Randy from Rosemount'.

 

Dippin' into the 14s, very respectable!

 

What's the plan for the tranny and the rear end? That rear end ain't gonna last

 

I'm thinking Muncie (M22) with a scatter shield bell housing, billet flywheel and better clutch. Also a custom driveshaft with billet bearing and slip joint. Not sure on the rear end yet. I have a source for the 2nd upper link when that day comes. I will not upgrade the engine until all the driveline has been upgraded.

 

Money better spent on a Richmond Super T-10, many gear ratio options, and they even have roadrace rated versions.

https://www.richmondgear.com/auto-parts-catalog/high-performance-transmission-catalog/

 

A short cell phone video that my friend Jason shot, before my trans died...And starting to gather parts for the repair...

 

The sound of a healthy small block that can back it up, is sweet music to my ears.
I like your plan of beefing up the drive line. Slicks will make you do that in my experience...
I hope you keep this beauty streetable, it becomes a fine-line sometimes when the track bug bites. Next thing you know, 5.13s, 90-10s, single plane, double pumper, ladder bars......

 

Or a 409

 

There is always the weakest link in the drivetrain... I chase them the same way, from the flywheel back. My traction bars showed the weak link in my M20 since I lost the wheel hop on the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 was greatly improved.

 

Man...this is quite the $pendy way to end up with a mock-up transmission. So, in an effort to recoup some of my hard earned cash...I’ve decided to offer up a slightly used Saginaw gear set. If you don’t mind shifting from 2nd to 4th, send me a PM.

 

Ouch

 

I haven't torn into my 40's Super T10 that I destroyed.....I think it's going to look very similar. I did find a replacement tranny....Just need some time to get it on the lift.

 

I only broke 1 Saginaw but the last one I had, I BENT the teeth on the reverse idler which is always in mesh when the car is moving forward. And it hides in the bottom of the case where it's damned hard to see with the rest of the gears in place. Made a nasty noise, especially in 2nd.
My M-21 is holding up nicely but I have very little weight on the tires...should be ok in my lightweight coupe but in a 3600 lb 63 chevy? I dunno. If I could afford it, I'd go with a nice Richmond.
Great looking Bel Air!

 

As I grow older and wiser, I see the value in a nice new 4-speed myself. With my last spring M20 breakage, I was down to a few choices, Auto Gear's new M23 with a lower 1st gear, a Richmond box or a Super T10. I was able to have my M20 done over at a good price, the best bet is to find someone local who knows them inside and out. I promise to post a picture of my blown up parts, I got them back at no extra charge.

 

Just a few photos. I’ll talk later...

 

Ahhh, an epiphany, huh?

 

NOW you're in business!

 

Beautiful car, and quality work!

 

Trans is in! Good thing it broke, as it looks like the motor mount was ready to “let go”. It’s equipped with all poly mounts and proper hardware now. I ended up selling those Doug’s headers (for a profit!) as they fit terribly. Slowly getting it back together, upgrading and changing a few things and looking forward to summer!

 

Always look forward to your updates and workmanship. Randy


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Awesome car with a great stance.

 

I posted this on the “what did you do today” thread, but I thought it should go here too... After really struggling to install my new, non-magnetic pilot bushing, I finally figured out that some SBC cranks were never “finish drilled” to the 1.094” size. This happened when the engine originally had an automatic trans behind it. GM drilled the crank to 1.060”, and left it at that. Dorman sells a pilot bushing that is 1.060” OD, but it is magnetic and it is only sold in the normal 3/4” length. I bought one, and installed it, but it bothered me. I decided to do some depth measurements and figured out that only 1/2” of the (brand spanking new) pilot shaft was penetrating into the bushing. Since they don’t make a “long” (1”) non-magnetic bushing with the OD I needed, I decide to customize one. After making a mandrel, I zip-tied the trigger on the drill to keep it running and used a flat file to shave off material. Stopping every so often to check progress, I went through 7 zip-ties. But, I got to the correct size on only 1 battery.

 

Love it that's old time Hot Rodding right there. I must have been sleeping the day they taught it so what is the advantage/difference with using a non-magnetic pilot bushing?

 

The claim is that the magnetic ones obviously contain iron. That iron is not ideal in terms of (potential) wear on the input shaft. Certain trans companies specifically state that warranties will be null and void if there is excessive wear to the input shaft and to avoid the magnetic pilot bushings. It’s probably not that big of a deal. What was a big deal was that my flywheel was held on by (flexplate) 3/4” long fasteners that only went slightly beyond the half way point of the thickness of the crank flange. Now it’s bolted on with ARP 1” long (flywheel) bolts. Do I really need to take the entire car apart? Maybe someday.