If you look above at post number 12, you will see I already decided to run the SROD transmission. It is a 3 speed manual with overdrive. The one I have is out of an F250. The truck version has the shifter farther forward than the the one out of the cars. So I won’t have to worry about the shifter getting in the way of the bench seat.
Well crap- you sure did! Not sure how/why we circled back to auto transmissions.... I'm gonna blame it on age and preoccupation with old cars. However the discussion about the rear end ratio is still valid- your manual (I got it right that time!) trans. has OD so I'd still say go with the 3.55 gears over the 3.08's. Sorry about the confusion! Keep up the good work- your metal work is a heck of a lot better than mine!
It’s ok. I’m keeping my eyes pilled for a better rear. Found another local one today with a 3:55 Out of another ranger.
I guess I missed that as well. Oops. What year is the ranger rear end? 91-92 are the exact right width Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Cool to see that people are still using the die design that i did long time ago. I think they work on other early '50's Ford cars too than shoeboxes. Have fun with them!
I’ve not got a lot done in the past couple of weeks. I did manage to get the dash removed and stripped. The dash, inner fenders and a few other parts are off getting sandblasted. I also got most of the old sound deading material scraped off the floor. I started working on the drivers floor pan. I got the edge bent and the location of the beads laid out. I still have some trimming and fitting to do. I’m hoping my custom set of bead dies are ready to pick up in the next day or so....so I get get the floor pans finished up. I will need to patch the back of the rocker panel some before I install the floor
I've been working on my 1950 Crestliner today. When I put the mustang gas tank in, I turned it sideways and I still have the spare tire well.
I would like to see pictures of that. I’ve not seen anyone else turn the gas tank sideways. I’m getting ready to order my gas tank.
Nice start! Just a little advice: cut a slightly oversized piece of sheetmetal and do all of the beadroller work first. The sheetmetal shrinks a bit after you have rolled it with the beadroller. Its hard to say that is there enought extras on those pieces you have already cut, but you can see it when you have rolled them. Keep it up!
Looks like a great start! Definitely going to be following..I’m kinda partial to 51s.. I just need to get my lazy ass over to the garage where mine is to do something so I feel like it’s moving forward.. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Look at 66/69 Comet/Montego gas tank , filler hole is in left frt corner of tank compared to Mustang center rear location . Jim
I just installed a new gas tank in my 51 from shoebox central. I think i spent like 250 or something for the tank and a new fuel sending unit and the hose too..The original sending unit has 6 screws holding it in place and new tanks have 5 I believe . Everything bolted right in place and I was able to hook it right up to the fuel filler tube . I don’t remember how much the mustang tanks go for now but the trunk floor in my coupe was near perfect so I opted to put it back under the car. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
My custom floor dies are ready for pick up. I had a 2nd set made that I am offering up for sale. If anyone is interested just pm me. They will be $100. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/custom-bead-roller-dies-for-a-51-shoebox-ford.1132417/
Wait..I've seen these cool looking beadroller dies somewhere before The material choice is excellent, i think those will last longer than the original set i did ages ago. Have you rolled any panels yet with them? Keep it up!
I've not rolled any panels yet. Hopefully I will get the chance this weekend. I hope my panels turn out at least half as good as yours did.
Thanks! This came to my mind. When rolling panels, the metal shrinks and the panel will get a slight curve. If you have an access for planishing hammer or english wheel, i recommend to do some pre-stretching before the beadrolling. This helped me a bit, so there wasnt so much "banana" shape on the floor pans. This video will show you what i ment: It sure is a pain in the ass to make big size panels without the pre-stretching them.
Here is my 1st test run with the new dies. Not bad for my 1st time. I need to build a stand for the bead roller before I can make my floor pans.
Nice! I’m about to travel down the same path as you with my 51 convertible so I’m keen to watch your progress. My floor is pretty bad but I’ll be making new patches using the same method now that I’ve seen it done. Thanks
After a few crazy months I was finally able to get some work done on the 51. I spent a few hours test mocking up the inner and outer rocker panel. Once I was happy with the fit I primed and undercoated the inside of rocker panels. Then I welded them together. I still need to go back and finish weld the rockers in place. I set in my floor pan just to get a look and I’m very happy with the fit. I am finishing up a stand for my plannishing hammer. Once it is complete I will get started running the beads in the floor pans.
I was reading your thread and saw your comment on getting an English Wheel. I have one with anvils that I'd part with! I live over in Sweetwater so I'm not too far from you.
Finished up my plannishing hammer stand this evening. I’m happy with the way it turned out. Weather permitting I’m picking up an English wheel tomorrow or Sunday
Not much to report. I’m currently in the process of building a new house....and a bigger shop (if the budget permits) and that is taking up most of my spare time right now. I did manage to start repairs on the drivers inner fender. So far I’m happy with the way it is turning out. But I’m debating about building a custom set of inner fenders....mainly for a smooth cleaner look. I have made a little progress on the floors. I made a patch for the rear floor. I still need to clean up the body brace under it before I can weld it in. Next will be working on the trans tunnel and toe board. Progress is slow right now but some is better than none.
Small progress is better than no progress at all! I guess those custom made inner fenders are possible to do, but my opinion is that the factory inners are just fine. They doesnt look perfect from the factory, kind of low quality pieces. But i like the design anyway. I dont know do you have to, but if you have a need for replacing fender or inner fender for a better one, stick with the same year tins. It makes your life a lot easier, just learned that..
Most of the drivers floor has been welded up. Fabricated a trans cover. I still need to make the bellhousing cover for the trans. I will finish weld the trans tunnel after I make the passenger side floor pan I also started patching the drivers toe board. Once I finish the toe board I will start repairing the trunk floor and welding up the body seam on the rear quarter. I will probably take this opportunity to go ahead and French the rear tail lights.....I just need to decide on the method I want to use to French them.....Any suggestions/recommendations?
Nice progress! I like how the tail lights are frenched in my car. It was done before i bought it, so i have nothing to do with them. They are '50 lights, but i guess its possible to do with the '51 lights too if you are going to keep them. Personally i like the '49-'50 tail lights better than the '51's. Here's a link how it was done: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/another-shoebox-goes-under-the-knife.379161/page-4 I think there's pics missing of that thread. There is a tail light shaped rings at the trunkside of car. That ring is formed from roundbar and its welded there. That ring supports quarterpanel, when tail lights are bolted against them. The frenched panel edges are formed against that ring. I hope that helps.