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Technical Crimping Tutorial

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazy Steve, Oct 29, 2018.

  1. I suppose that will work, but I don't see any point to the extra work.... And not all crimps have a seam that can be split.
     
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  2. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,335

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Just to add, the 3mm weld on studs that come with a stud gun/dent puller will thread to 4-40 beautifully. Thanks Steve for that tip, I have used it to hold panels in place while welding, on places where clamps would not work. Back to crimping.
     
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  3. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,629

    The37Kid
    Member

    Would the gap help protect the insulation from solder melting it?
     
  4. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,442

    Boneyard51
    Member


    That’s an old trick to use when your terminal is too big for your wire. Your wire should almost fill up the inside of the terminal. If you can fold it like that you really need a smaller terminal.



    Bones
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2018
  5. mkebaird
    Joined: Jan 21, 2014
    Posts: 340

    mkebaird
    Member

    Thanks for the great tutorial. I've always crimped, then soldered, and have had NO problems with wiring, some over 20 years old. Next project will be crimped only, now that I know the proper technique!
     
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  6. No benefit... There's various anti-corrosion compounds that are sometimes used for aluminum wire when crimping, but it's not needed for copper wire.

    You won't find a set with three crimp sizes anymore; I'm pretty sure mine date to WW2, I inherited them from my Father who I believe got them out of the shipyards after the war. I gave part numbers of the best currently available indent crimpers with two sizes, but you'll probably have to order them either in-store or online.

    The market for small wire crimps has changed over the years. Crimp connectors for small wire aren't used as much as they used to be in industrial applications (which was the main consumer of them) as improved terminal strips became popular in the '80s which could securely terminate stranded wire without a crimp terminal. Prior to these, most used screw terminals and stranded wire would 'walk' off from under the screw when tightening. Large 'pin end' crimps have become more popular, particularly on aluminum wire. But for small wire crimps, the current market has shifted more towards telecom, computer networks, fire alarm, and security applications. These are all current-limited (generally under 50 milliamps) uses so the requirements aren't the same. Again, what everyone needs to remember is that with only a few exceptions (primarily OEM automotive and a very few aftermarket suppliers like Deutsch), NONE of the commonly available crimps or crimpers out there were designed for automotive use. These parts/tools are nearly all re-tasked by somebody (and rarely with full knowledge of their suitability) for an off-the-shelf solution for vehicle use.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
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  7. czuch
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 2,688

    czuch
    Member
    from vail az

    Most informative. Thanks.
    I started crimping your way a long time ago, it seemed to make more sense.
    WOOOHOOO I was right.
     
  8. upspirate
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 2,299

    upspirate
    Member

    One thing that helps with cutting the screws is to make sure you thread it in with the head of the screw on the threaded side. (one side of hole is threaded, one is not) That way , when you back the screw out of the threaded hole, it clears the threads on the screw end so a nut will start properly
     
  9. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,629

    The37Kid
    Member

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Cut the correct way as you mentioned protects the threads, the wrong way crushes them somewhat. Bob
     
  10. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,926

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I build industrial control systems for all types of machines. I've seen guys use those fancy on squeeze wire strippers and I've tried to use them but I always use the type mentioned in the original post. On any given day I can strip upwards to 200-300 wire plus. Most of the wires will be terminated in clamping terminals either on the components I am wiring to or in terminal blocks but I also do a fair share of crimping wire ends. I do custom work for many different customers and each have their own requirements of what wire ends I use and what kind of tool I use to crimp them so I have a tool box drawer full of different crimpers costing between $100-500. My favorite that I've been using for over 20 years is a ratcheting type from T&B, will only release after the crimp is done

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,264

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Thank you Steve. Never had any formal education on this subject. Thanks for taking the time putting all this together for us.
     
  12. I'll take some pictures of my crimp tools and post them. Advance Auto Parts has a nice insulated lug crimp tool for around $30 that works well. I have a very good wire stripper I got at Lowes for $26.
     
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  13. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,916

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Steve, much more of stuff like this and you're going to have to give up the "Crazy" appellation.:D
     
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  14. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,239

    boutlaw
    Member

    Excellent article Steve, I have a pair of Sta Kon crimpers that look exactly like yours. I actually got them from an old electrician in the late 60s and have used them ever since. I thoroughly enjoyed your tutorial.
     
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  15. I think it's great that folks will take the time to pass on their knowledge like this. My experience has been that a lot of people lack experience and confidence when it come to wiring or any kind of electrical work. A thread like this helps people to do this kind of work with more confidence.

    Thanks for the time you spent doing this Crazy Steve.
     
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  16. … Plus by doing it that way the screw stays on the tool instead of flying off to disappear... LOL
     
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  17. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    Thx, Steve, for the excellent tutorial, with about 65+ year of messing with cars, including wiring, both for additions, repairs and complete wiring, some house wiring, and also amateur radio stuff, I've done my share also.
    But some things you've shown here were a revelation for me and I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to do this for us HAMBers.
     
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  18. Chavezk21
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 767

    Chavezk21
    Member

    Thanks much. Very helpful and informative.
     
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  19. Rramjet1
    Joined: Mar 13, 2018
    Posts: 226

    Rramjet1

    Interesting. I was trained as an Aircraft Electrician in the USAF many moons ago. One thing that was driven home was to never connect copper and aluminum together. Imagine my surprise when I was stationed at Boeing for a year and learned the Generator power cables were aluminum from the engine to inside the wing root then spliced to copper for weight savings. The splices used were uninsulated barrel type with an internal barrier to keep the two ends from touching. They also had a special coating. They were crimped with hydraulic power crimpers then covered in a thick heat shrink that exuded goop at the ends that got hard as a rock. They had been doing it for ever on all their aircraft. Never heard of a failure. So long story not so short, you can connect copper and aluminum wires. Think there is a process for doing this in older homes with aluminum wiring were wires are terminated in copper at outlets.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  20. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,730

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    In most cases, nay.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  21. RM209
    Joined: Jul 1, 2011
    Posts: 256

    RM209
    Member
    from MD

    Excellent article. I’ve got a similar pair of old T&B crimpers ; they’re great. I bought mine used in a box miscellaneous stuff. I’ve seen the large crimpers you pictured, and I needed something to crimp some 6 gauge wire. I’m going to order a set.

    Thanks,
    RM209
     
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  22. 34fordjay
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 110

    34fordjay
    Member
    from Mass USA

    Your finished product looks real nice. Thanks for taking the time to explain the crimps.
     
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  23. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,771

    JOECOOL
    Member

    Thanks for the post ,What do you think of the shrink tube ends that have the epoxy in them?
     
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  24. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    good stuff, thanks!

    I cheat and have used insulated terminals on lots of things, for many years, with the same style crimper you use. And, it works. Sure, it pokes a hole in the plastic insulation, but it still provides a good crimp. and since the only exposed metal is inside a hole in the plastic, the odds of it shorting to anything are pretty slim.

    Heat shrink tubing is a pain in the ass.
     
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  25. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,428

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    When I have to use the plastic ones, I slip the plastic off. Always use the heat shrink with the sealer in it.
     
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  26. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You know there are ones made where the plastic sleeve is heat shrink, with sealer in it.
     
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  27. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 8,661

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Friend just got these at a garage sale for 2 bucks. When you squeeze the heads spiral in. Made by Buchanon. Offered to double his money, no soap.

    1208181010_resized.jpg 1208181010a_resized.jpg 1208181010b_resized.jpg
     
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  28. Haven't seen one of those in years...

    These aren't really what you want for 'standard' crimps. These were designed for a specific type of crimp (made by Buchanan, natch) that was a precursor to wire nuts for splicing multiple wires together, with a limited series of terminals available. Once wire nuts came on the market, these fell out of favor. You can still get the splice sleeves and terminals, as some manufacturers still use them for factory assemblies. I've never seen them used for field connections other than old installs.
    http://www.idealindustries.ca/produ...rminals_crimps/crimp_connector_splice_cap.php
    http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_termination/terminals_crimps/termend.php

    They only come in raw copper so aren't very corrosion-resistant, and the sleeve is pretty thin/soft (you can squash a splice sleeve with your fingers). I've got a handful of the splice sleeves floating around somewhere; their main advantage is you can mix wire sizes in a single connector, not something easily done with 'regular' crimps.
     
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  29. The Buchanans are passé in the field for the most part. They came in under the MS3191 spec around 1955 IRC. Which has been replaced by M22520 around 1970 and is still the standard today for military crimp tools. I have at work a cross-math between the Buchanans and today's Daniels crimp tools. Any 4-indent Buchanan I have seen has a positioner attached to it. Buchanan was eventually acquired by Astro, we have some of their tools at work and are able to keep the certifications up.
     
  30. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,942

    squirrel
    Member

    1955 specs would be perfect for building a period car, eh? :)

    some times I wonder which world some of you are living in.
     

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