Projects Little Red Roadster Resurection - original 1929 body on original 1932 frame

What I see in the photos is that hitting a Brick wall seems to have done Nothing but scratch some paint on the frame horns plus the body damage. The spring shackles are not bent or twisted. The Hair pin frame mounts are not disturbed. There is noting to indicate that incident could have twisted the Frame as I see it. The damage to the 10 bolt is not fresh at all. There's grease in the Weld Crack. It was like that prior to the Krash. I feel the frame Twist is from the Rear Tires doing there Job behind some pretty good H.P. and the fact there is not a single diagonal brace in the chassis to stop or control torsional Twist. Find a Fab Shop that can anchor it and read a framing level. Then add some K legs to keep it where it belongs.
The Wizzard

 

Look specifically for Kinks, dimples, or Rips in the Frame flanges and around the crossmembers.

 

I would trust Gary Maxwells advice and either have him build you a pinched '32 frame or try to use the other '32 that you have. We have so many regulations regarding safety that if Gary is reluctant to straighten the bent rails you should sell them to the guy in P.N.W. Until you strip the frame and find out how much rust through, bubble gum welds and brass is in it you are probably better off with new material. Gary assembled a '32 frame for me using all stock front and rear crossmember and original k-member. His work is beyond reproach. Just a suggestion and as is said my 2 cents.

 

The brazing scares me more than the bends and twists.

 

I guess it’s all a moot point until I strip the paint and start measuring. I originally thought the brazing was to cover old frame numbers and the stock holes but I’ll sand the other side to see if they match. I can see the weld seam on the funky rear horns. There are some quality things done to the car and some real hokey stuff so hoping the frame had some quality work. The right rear steel rim lip has obviously been hit and maybe even hammered back and the only damage I can see to the frame is a small dent right in front of the rear right tire.

 

Portapower and a nice flat concrete slab for your table and you can straighten it out, then reweld, turn it upside down to check for twist, un twist it with some clever moves, these things are 1/8" mikd steel they will straighten pretty easily. Go for it you have nothing to loose.

 

Check Wescott Home page and you will find the frame dimension there.

 

http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1929Hiboy.pdf
This should help you out. Frank

 

For me I'd keep it simple. The Body fit the Frame once and for a long time. I'd read that carefully and go back there, it may or may not be the same as someone else Blue Print.
There is No way I would use Brass for any structural weld. That said, look close and notice there is no split or tear in the Brass. I think it's a non issue but I'd keep going and find out why it's there.
No doubt a New chassis would be the Cat's Ass but then while your replacing things with New so would a Better Body. Then what would you have?
I'm really curious about that steering box. It looks to have an extended sector shaft. Something I don't recognize for sure as of yet.
The Wizzard

 

From the damage to the rear end and side sway and diamond in the frame plus the straighten wheel it looks like the car was hit hard on the right rear wheel causing all the damage to the frame. From the bent axle tube to the cracked 3rd member housing.
If you can get or borrow a set of center line gauges you may be able to straighten the frame out . Autobody Toolmart Sells these or you maybe able to find a set in a older body shop that does not use them any more. I still have mine that I bought over 50 years ago . These and a tram bar is all you need.

 

He said that probably because new rails are 600. And he doesn’t want to mess with them

 

How are things progressing?

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The rodding world is a cool place. I had a few rodders stop by here and there to check out my “junk” and the response to my question “is this fixable” has run the gambit from no way to no problem, from buy a new frame to use your other 32 frame. As life goes, my girlfriend was hit by a drunk driver in a hit and run (they caught and arrested the other driver) and the body shop that came to pick up her car for repair (I can’t believe they didn’t total it) had me asking the same question of the body shop owner. He looked it over and said no problem. He has a digital measuring frame straightening table and quoted me about $400 saying it shouldn’t be too hard and less than a days work. If it can be straightened for $400 I’ll be stoked! It would be the ultimate to keep the original frame that the car’s been sitting on since the 50’s and be able to keep its originality. I’m keeping my fingers crossed. It goes on Wednesday and it should be done by Friday so hoping to have a better update then on whether it was successful.

 

I’ve been told recently that the steering box looks to be from an F3 1 ton or bigger Ford truck. I’m not sure if I’ll keep it or convert to F1

 

Glad your girlfriend is alright, the perpetrator has been apprehended and the aftermath is interesting.

I as many others look forward to this shaping up and the more original pieces utilized retains some authenticity and is easier on the bank book too a degree. Come on Wednesday...

 

I am glad to hear your girl friend is ok .
I think you made the best choice on your frame. I have used the Lazer measuring system and the Shark system, as well the Caroliner system for years and you can get a frame really straight with them . I like the Car-O-Liner cartronic the best , it's fast and accurate.
The newer cars have Energy absorbing systems built in so they will crush and crumple and not pass the impact on to the occupant.

 

Sorry to hear about your Girlfriend. The up side if there is one is that you found a Qualified Guy that does Repairs not in the Retail side to get the Roadster project going forward. His price is Very Good and as it should be.
The Wizzard

 

The frame is on the torture rack

 

This is a neat and very refreshing thread. (no pun intended).
Please keep us updated with lots of photos.
Thanks,
Clemens.

 

This is a interesting build. Looks like everything is on the right move forward. Congrats, its going to be a cool little hot rod.

 

Ah Yes, Between what the Frame is sitting on and what I see hanging on the wall this is the Right Guy for the job at hand. Once done there and were it me I'd add a pair of diagonal legs from the center crossmember back to just where the Rails start the rise up and over the rear axle. That would give it a fighting chance to stay where the Frame Guy brings it back to.
The Wizzard

 

He's gonna make it talk...... much more civil use of power.

 

I’m thinking I’m gonna try to get a k member or x member in there. My next decision is what tranny and motor combo - I have a 39 trans and 5 8ba flatheads that need to be rebuilt - or I have a powerglide and rebuilt 57 vette 283. I’m not a big fan of a Chevy motor in a Ford (although I prefer Chevy muscle cars) but the frame is already set up for and sbc combo. I want to make the roadster a late 50’s era so either would work. And then I have to decide between a juice brake 40 banjo rear or an early 60’s 9” rear. You know, the simple decisions


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I also gave him the Wescott blueprint that was nicely tagged into this thread for me for 29 body to make sure the frame widths stay correct/close


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Okay, late 50's. You have the pieces but were it Me I'd mix them together just a bit different than the above list. I'd loose the Glide and bolt the rebuilt 283 to the 39 Trans. I haven't been a fan of the side mounts on your Frame (not 60's correct) so I'd remove them and go with a Hurst front mount and Flat head mount biscuits. Now use the 40 rear axle with the rear spring that was in the car to start with. Next loose the Disc brakes on the front and go with matching 40 fronts and you have exactly what would have been up dated in 1958 from a Flathead powered Roadster. The up side of that to me is that it was S.B.C. powered in it's last life. That is what your trying to salvage to some degree isn't it?
The Wizzard

 

Glad your girlfriend is OK. Good luck going forward with the re-birth of this very cool hot-rod.

 

I like the way you’re going on this. Redo the mounts to the Flathead biscuit so I can go Flathead or sbc. My only concern with using the 39 trans behind an sbc is whether is can handle the extra hp. Same with the banjo rear. But at least I have the start to a vision. Thank you!


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I hear your concern about the Early Ford stuff behind the 283. Many a Flathead were built with more Snot in them than a 283, they just didn't R.P.M. quite as fast. So there needs to be some kind of a Trade off or Fuse link. For me it's always been Tires. Fact is, if it don't Hook Up you can't (shouldn't) brake it. Don't run those Steam Rollers on the back. Go to a more traditional Tire. Find a good size dia. for the diff ratio and a proper width for stick only just enough stick to do the Job. Not enough to Twist the Frame and brake shit. You'll be just fine.
The Wizzard

 

F.Y.I. On my Roadster I'm building it with a Flathead for now. I also can do a Bolt in change over to my S.B.C. motor or my Olds motor or even my Small Hemi. All this is pre fit while under construction and all bolts up to my 39 type gear box. All 3 of these motors have already done many miles in front of early Trans and so far so good. You gotta know the limits and often that lesson comes at the expense of braking stuff. You never forget that lesson.
The Wizzard

 

I make and sell chopped folding windshield posts for your roadster here on the HAMB put in "Chopped Folding Windshield Posts" you'll see them, your frame is coming along good. pick an engine trans rear end combo and put it together, then collect the parts for the other engine and trans. you can change them out in a day or two SBC for a while then Flathead for a while. Have some fun. JW