Guys, The Brookville ones are $280 shipped which seems like a lot for something that could be cut out of some plywood with a jig saw so does anyone know of some online templates or paper templates a guy could purchase and do it hiself. Any thoughts or direction?
Probley get FedX to deliver those. (They come with a warning – "Don't run with scissors in your hand".
Do you want then to just fit or be correct? There are also several mill cuts. Try asking on fordbarn, there is a recommended supplier out there but I don't remember his name. Charlie Stephens
If you want them to fit correctly you can figure a few hours labor and you will at least need a router to do the job.
Here s a photo of an original toe board showing the routed out area. You do not need the round hole unless you are using a actual '32 transmission.
I think there was a set of plans in the "V8 Times" (the Early Ford V8's Club's magazine) probably back in the seventies. Ask on their site earlyfordv8.org or as I said before ask on fordbarn. Charlie Stephens
Yes, the plans for the boards are on the net--I found them with a search and was able to make them with out much trouble. You will need a router and a table saw--at least I did. The two metal brackets are important as they hold the toe board and foot board nice and tight together--there is no other support at that point.
This is where I purchased mine. They will cut in the battery and clutch inspection hole or leave solid. They even have the brackets and screws. Very satisfied. Roy Nacewicz Enterprises 734-654-9450 PO Box 544 Carleton MI 48117
Wow, I cut the ones on both my model A's out of plywood and they worked great but it sounds like these are much more involved than a quick project. I am going to reach out to Roy in Michigan.
I know there is a guy in Hastings, Nebraska that sells very nice repops but can't tell you who he is. I do know Gary from Cornhusker Hot Rods knows him. I am sure he will pass the information on to you.
Don't think I would use plywood though. I made the rear window framework on my Tudor out of the scraps my boss had left over when he did some (laminated Beechwood) on his '36 Packard roadster. My originals were deteriorated but retained their dimensions and I traced them out. After the pieces are cut I submerged them in a 50/50 mix of turpentine and linseed oil as a preservative and to prevent cracking. This can be painted after drying, if desired.
If you want an authentic looking one it's a lot of bevels and cuts underneath. Here's the before floor that came with the car . It looks like a piece of kitchen linoleum on top, not kidding. The one I purchased from Roy, I'm just finishing up and installing. I had to notch the toe board for the 39 shift tower and do some minor trimming and modification for the relocated battery box. But I pleased the way it came out.
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