Hot Rods Hemi to WC T5 hit a snag

When bolting my T5 up to my Hemi I found that the box stops about 1/4” away from the trans adapter, the input shaft is tight against the centre of the flywheel. I,m using an adapter and flywheel from Hotheads and an early GM Bellhousing.Was thinking about removing the shaft and shortening the splined part.

 

isn't that just bottoming out on the pilot bushing? if so knock the bushing in a little

 

No I tried it without the clutch fork so I could look inside and the end of the splines are touching the flywheel.

 

Call the prickly guys at hotheads for details on the pilot bearing/bushing and trans.....had the same issue a few years ago with an buddies build. There's a specific t5 input shaft that works with the swap. We ended up machining bits to make what he had work.

Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Could you machine a spacer between the transmission and bellhousing mating surface? The instructions that came with my TKO said if the bellhousing was too shallow, stick some washers between the bell and the trans. A spacer would be less ghetto, but accomplish the same thing.

Good luck, -Abone.

 

Would it be possible to have a step machined around the center hole in the flywheel to clear the shaft? I'd think the hole in the flywheel was really small if the end of the input is hitting it.
**********************************************************************************
Looking at the Hotheads site I see that the adapter info says Hemi to Chevy manual It does not say Hemi to WC T-5. The T-5 needs a spacer to bolt it to a regular Chevy bellhousing not intended for a T-5 something similar to this. https://transmissionadapters.com/co...-bellhousings-most-to-chevy-s10-t-5-1984-1992

A swap to a Jeep T-5 input shaft that uses a 10 spline clutch disk may eliminate the need for the spacer and make it a lot easier to find a clutch disk. The info shown here. https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weeb...ft-swap---diy-and-skip-the-adapter-plate.html

 

^^^This would seem to be the easiest solution^^^

 

When I did my 303 with a t5 and Ross racing adaptor I had a similar problem. I found a new shaft from a jeep and swapped it. You do not want to bottom out on the pilot bushing because your crank needs to float


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

There’s a web site that I found that gives specs on all the t5 imput shafts. There easy to replace. Just pay attention to the tooth count, spline count and spline dia.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Is it possible to grind the splines back to get the clearance needed????

 

Great info on here as usual , thanks to everyone for chiming in. My shaft is the shortest one at 6 1/2”(measured from the box to the end of the shaft) I,ll have a look at it tomorrow evening and see about whittling up a spacer or maybe modifying the shaft.

 

Mr48chev
Looking at the Hotheads site I see that the adapter info says Hemi to Chevy manual It does not say Hemi to WC T-5. The T-5 needs a spacer to bolt it to a regular Chevy bellhousing not intended for a T-5 something similar[/QUOTE]

I,ve had the adapter here for years. I know the box is a Borg Warner but assumed as it came from a Camero it was what HH meant as a Chevy box. Oh well as Steven King once said “assume makes an ass out of you and me” It seems to have made one outta me.

 

You could remove your input shaft and bring it to a machine shop to have the last 1/4" of spline area ground a bit smaller than the hole it fits into, but you would still have to insure that there is enough engagement between the pilot bearing and shaft bearing surface while not bottoming out.

 

The shaft is now out ready to be machined. We have plenty of engagement between the pilot bearing and shaft.