Technical ***October 2018 Banger Meet - 4 Banger Ghostmobile***

Johnny....great looking A! I look forward to my '31 getting back together, but I'm a long way from that. Photos of cars like yours is a great motivation to keep chipping away at my seemingly endless to-do list.

Just curious, are you using the A transmission and rearend (3.78 gears?), or have you made changes to the driveline? I'd be interested in a rundown of the driveline combination. What kind of speed/RPM have you found in driving it?

Lynn

 

Checking in and checking out....the Cabriolet did move today but not by much.....hell what did you expect from a birthday boy !

 

Thanks, it’s nice to hear some outside opinions. It’s been this pile of parts for so long. I was right where you (probably) the last couple years. The car is totally garage built, and I would only be able to work on it here, and there (house and family come first). I’m excited to actually drive it, even if it’s just around the block!

Yes, A trans with v8 clutch, and lightened flywheel. Not sure about rear ratio, honestly. Float-a-motor mount for trans. I’ve only driven maybe a mile, but right now it feels like I could use some taller gearing. Drives like a tractor!

 

Hi, yeah- no damage, just another day in shakey Wellington.

 

Thanks for thinking of us, but I hardly felt a thing, wasn't like the big one a couple of years ago. I haven't head of any injuries. It was a 6+ on the scale but real deep, so although it was felt over a wide area of NZ , damage was minimal.
I was right there at the center of the action the night of the 7.4 in November 16 , got stuck in the town for a month, all roads out were blocked.

 

I used a Makita grinder , faster . im sure in time they will conform , but probably need adjustment . good luck

 

glad all is ok down there

 

Good looking Coupe. My you are a lurker. Cabriolet locks all 4 with the set up you describe. I turned the drums to match the shoe arch. The drums are undersized new.
All the slop from worn components needs to be out of the set up. If there is a shaft moving around in a worn out bushing, rollers, pins, clevises and even the brake pedal on the shaft that takes away from the mechanical advantage.
Also the individual brake rods need to be adjusted to the lever's. I always unhook the rods, all 4, and adjust the length so the clevis pin will slide in and out. I've had to straighten the rods maybe even lengthen/shorten them to make this happen. You want the lever arm in the proper position to obtain the maximum mechanical advantage.
Lots of stuff to digest and with the proper set up, cast iron drums and good lining your car should stop with out excessive pedal pressure.
This and no brake fluid to leak out as it sets
Good luck and this will probably run over into next month.

Larry

Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Johnny
Do you have your brake rods adjusted properly? The adjuster on the backing plate won't do much for you if the rods aren't adjusted. The brake arms should be pointed forward at like a 25-40 degree angle not up or back you lose mechanical advantage if they don't point forward. I don't remember Tardel writing much other than convert to juice brakes. You might want to pick up the Les Andrews red book. His method for adjusting brakes is pretty much fool proof or search for Purdy Swofts post on the Fordbarn. I have the same setup as you and mine locks the brakes.
Nice looking coupe BTW.

 

Thanks for the pic of the 5 main T. Here is another 5 main T with bolt in mains...can't remember where the pic came from.

 

The November 2018 Bange Meet is open
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/november-2018-banger-meet-weather-changing.1127777/

 

Thanks for all the replies, and tips. I’m going to double check my rods, and re-arch the linings, and get back to you.