Technical Crimping Tutorial

I applaud your efforts. Thanks for a great tech post. Wether I know something or in doubt any tech is a good tech.

 

I'll save this tech, thank you

 

Another thank you for taking the time to do this tech.
We need Tech Week to come back!!

 

I believe that a crimped connection is preferred in an environment where there is vibration (automotive, marine, aircraft, most industrial applications), which can work-harden a soldered joint and eventually cause a failure.
As far as conductivity, they are equal if they are both done properly.

 

You can just cut the plastic off with a Crapsman knife. Waste not...

 

I know shrink tube is a strain relief but dang, if I ever make crimps that nice I'm not sure I'd want to cover em. Does it come in clear?

 

I've recently embarked on the installation of an American Autowire Hwy 15 Nostaglia kit in a 3w coupe, it's the one with the cotton braided wires ($$$'s). I've been having some issues with crimping the large terminals (seen their video) but don't have the tool so have been working around quite successfully.

But thats not my point! I've needed to insulate terminations and the pre terminated wires have rubber sleeves instead of shrink and I was looking for similar elsewhere. I acquired some neoprene items for stupidly cheap money for a bag of 100 and they seem great, but a just little thinner than the AAWire versions.

They go on tighter than GI Joe's condoms (infact rolling them on does bring certain memories, and i will admit to enjoying the feel and smell of rubber - not taken that any further though!) and seem supportive but was wondering whether or not these are ok to use in an automotive application before I get too far into it?

Chris

 

Great tip including the photos and tech, thanks

 

Thanks Steve, that’s the way I have been crimping for years. It’s so simple, I thought I must be doing it wrong. I have the Klein 1006 crimping tool for small terminals and a Thomas and Betts for the larger battery cable type terminals. I know we disagree on soldering, but I recommend people follow your way.
The picture is of my larger crimper, everyone know what the Klein’s look like.
Along the way I scored a bunch of USA made uninsulated terminals that I use and I always heatshrinked connections .



Bones

 

Waste of time and effort.

There is noting wrong with them, but the have no inherent benefit. Every modern vehicle, and going back decades has hundreds of crimped connections that are not an issue. As long as the crimps are done properly, and the harness is properly supported, you are good to go.

I build autonomous vehicles, which literally have over a thousand of crimped connections. There is no extant evidence that there are any issues.

 

I never did like soldering terminals so crimped. Great tutorial so thanks. Now I will scrimp to get a quality crimp.

 

I just received my American Autowire Hwy 15 kit and after watching their tutorial on proper crimping I just ordered their crimping tools today.
No short cuts here quality all the way

 

Thanks for kind words guys. As a retired electrician, I'm more than a bit anal about electrical because I've seen plenty of failures. One thing you'll notice if you read most wiring/soldering threads is that guys who have worked in the industry/aircraft/marine almost always prefer crimps over soldering. That's not a coincidence; we've been taught and in many cases seen the issues with solder. The devil really is in the details...

Some comments on replies and other thoughts I forgot... LOL

Yep, AMP doesn't make junk. It's been years since I had to buy one, the last one cost me $360 to terminate a specialty crimp for radiant ceiling heat. You didn't buy these on a whim...

Good idea. That's about all I use those for anymore, but they're invaluable for that. I'll take some pics...

A few things about those Chinese hydraulic crimpers I forgot to mention. One, look carefully at the die type as well as how many you get. Some come with round crimp dies, some with hex crimp. The hex crimp works better, it doesn't tend to squish out the crimp sleeve as much as the round one (I've got one of each, which is why I bought the second one). On both types, if you rotate the crimp and recrimp, that will remove the 'edge'. The other thing is as soon as the dies touch together, stop pumping. Unlike the big $$$ units, these don't automatically release. If you keep pumping, you can blow out the seals. In spite of that, I know what the pro units cost, for $33 this was a steal...

The last thing is I noticed that the part number on my ancient T&B crimper is almost the same as the current version; where mine is a WT111, the new one has the suffix 'M' added on. Thirteen 'revisions' since it first came out...

 

Ideally, whatever you use for strain relief should have about the same resistance to bending as the wire insulation. I see lots of jobs where the builder has used thin shrink tube that really isn't doing the job. If the rubber is very flexible, more so than the insulation, you may want to put shrink under it to stiffen it up some. This is much more important if you're soldering as solder joints usually fail right where the solder ends.

Now, how well the particular rubber you have will survive possible heat and exposure to automotive fluids is something you'll have to find out. So a conventional shrink under the rubber may be a good idea...

 

Thank you so much for posting this information we can all use. This is what the Hamb is all about. People who know, sharing their knowledge with the rest of us.

 

Good stuff Steve thanks for the info.

 

I think it should be acknowledged that American Autowire have their act together and produce a nice product and their how to videos are pretty good too.

Wait, I just did that

 

I had to purchase heat shrinks a various places in my career. Some better than others, some would “ shrink “ better that others, some were heavier/ thicker than others.
A trick that I learned over time, especially When splicing, was to use two heat shrinks. I cut two, one about an inch long, shrink it, and one an inch and a half long and shrink it over the short one. Be sure to put both on first! Lol. Gave double protection and had a neat look to it.



Bones

 

Ok, the last gasp on this thread unless there's any 'technical' questions...

Now, as anyone who has had to shorten small screws can tell you, it can be a real PITA. No matter what you use (hacksaw, side cutters, small cut-off wheel), it always leaves you with boogered threads right at the end that will have to be dinked with. Not to mention the ones that fly out of whatever you're holding it with and disappear....

It was mentioned that the 'parts store' type crimpers can also cut small machine screws. They do, and the better ones will do a fine job. That's just about all I use mine for now. It's pretty simple....


Ok, this is the real deal, actually made by T&B. Still pretty much worthless as a crimp/strip tool IMO, but lots of guys have one or a copy in their tool box. The five holes around the pivot bolt are for cutting screws, ranging from 4-40 (I can't even remember the last time I saw a 4-40 …), to 6-32, 8-32, 10-32, and 10-24. So lets cut a screw...


When you look, you'll see there's matching holes on both sides. One side should be threaded, the other side not. Some cheaper copies may not be threaded on either side, but it can still work; you'll have to pay attention when cutting to maintain the desired length and may have to do some touch-up with a file on the end after cutting. The only caution I'll give is I wouldn't try cutting case-hardened screws; stick with 'standard' ones. Stainless is OK too.


Turn the screw into the right-sized hole while 'jiggering' the handle so it goes through the other side, and adjust until you have the length you want. Squeeze the handles....


… and you're done! Depending on how good the tolerances are on your individual crimper, you might have to slightly touch the end with a file for a clean thread, but usually not. This one turned out of the tool with my fingers.

 

Steve, I’m someone else with 40 years in the inside wiring industry. That is as nicely done and as accurate a piece of writing and illustration as I’ve ever seen done. Thank you.

 

Thank you

 

That's what um talk'n about. I buy what is suppose to do this cheap then modify them if need be (usually jaws are to wide). Same make it others go bye bye.

 

Thank you, you are now my new best best friend

 

I'm clueless on this stuff: is there a reason the terminal has a gap between the wire insulation? Will the shrink wrap fill the gap and provide a better anchor?

Bob

 

Thanks for the comments on soldering,I used to think soldering was the best way to go until a Sparky friend of mine showed me how to crimp correctly and pointed out why crimping was more reliable which this thread has just confirmed.
Thanks for the tutorial.

 

No reason, this was just to show a good crimp. It could be adjusted 'tighter'....

 

I've seen where soldered ends where people get the wire a little to hot and the wire will break from vibration.

 

Would it be beneficial to apply a dab of Dielectric Grease to the wire/terminal before crimping?

 

I found the 16 ton crimping tool for cables on ebay, $33 to $45, same tool, same pic. I haven't had any luck finding a pair of crimping pliers that have 3 sizes, all are like the ones I got and they only have one. I paid a decent price for these. I found some that were rachet type. I have a set of them for the factory Delphi terminal ends and I hate them. If you let it slip just a fraction it will screw the crimp up.

 

I learned the technique from Mark over at MAD Electrical several years ago. I've wired a couple of cars this way and haven't had a problem...….yet. It's a little different from yours, Steve but it basically garners the same result. Are there any negatives with this approach?
Excuse the funky pics, I copied it off Mark's handbook...…………….

Most terminals have a slit down the middle (this one was opened up with an awl for some reason). Place the tip of the crimping tool adjacent to the slit...………….



……….and crimp that side.



Next, fold the other side over the part you just crimped...…………….



………..and crimp that side. That should give you a good solid crimp. Wrap the terminal barrel and part of the wire with Scotch 88 electrical tape and finish with a length of Polyolefin heat shrink tubing. Steve, do you agree?