Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Ya but its got a genuine ford flathead v8 and really trick set of 1938 mack --diamond T truck GUIDE HEADLIGHTS, sealed beam. Its UN-AMERICAN to not want one of these things. You could get 20 lashes by the editor of street rodder magazine for espousing such thoughts, and your subscription cancelled.

Probably 2 or 3 guys scrapped to the end for right to buy it for the $27G.............don't the Taiwanese repo this body ????

mike lynch

 

I was a diehard Ford Flathead guy until I bought a '48 Chevy Fleetline for $55. The only Fords I've owned since 1964 are tractors. I have some parts but mostly just to look at.

 

27k is a lot of coin for a crispy 32 "deluxe model A" . I have had my 47 Chevy coupe for 21 years.

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Looked on ebay, they sell just the body thru so-cal for $30G

mike

 

So how do you really feel about these.


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i just call them as i see them..........it is all good tho, it keeps the GOOD stuff affordable.

 

This is one of the many things that make AMERICA great, different people like different makes, years and models, but loving CARS and the people are the main things/items.

 

Question for you all. I have a 31 Chevy 2 Door Sedan. I am working on the rear suspension right now. On the rear of the frame, there are pins that the leaf shackles attached to. Are these permanently fixed to the frame or do they pop or twist out like later Chevy trucks?

 

Should be able to punch those out and install new ones that are avail.

 

they look like this when apart.

 

Those are the later Chevy type that I want to use but the older pins in the 31 are larger in diameter. I am trying to use this type of shackle to hang my rear end.

Going to see if I can push the older ones out and try to insert the newer type bushing with the threaded pin which will work with my springs and shackles

 

going to try and push out the pins and put the newer type bushing with the threaded pin. Hopefully it works.

 

Your going to find out those things are in there solid. Be careful because they are mounted into cast iron holders. Easily broken.
Be easier to remove the castings from the frame, 3 rivets, mount into machinist vice and drill out using various size drills more than 1/2" ? I tried heating mine up in a vice with oxy/acy torch and I lost the battle. If your ends are badly worn I would just buy a new set off ebay. If your insert parts are badly worn then you will need complete set.

I changed all mine when I went from leaf spring rear to jaguar IRS.

mike lynch

 

finally got around to making the transmission mount for the tremec magnum 6 speed trans. 3 Bolts into the rubber /poly type mount turned out to be 7/16, I used allen heads grade 8. I originally had the mounting bracket arms that sat on the frame as 3/8" but decided last nite to open them up to 1/2" and go to battleship strength . Going to be throwing 500 hp thru that trans an do not want anything on the frame to break.

MIG welder LINCOLN 140 gas unit got put to use

mike lynch

 

Have also been busy with other thoughts on what to do . My 34 Chevrolet master series dash with gauge panel to the left and glove box to the right, makes my standard series a deluxe type upgrade.
Went to the local hardwood supplier and spent a couple of hours going thru their selection of fancy hardwoods and it came down to 2 black walnut boards. One dark and the other semi light.

Here's the plan, take the recessed top wood grain painted insert and cut it out extremely carefully. File the opening by hand till perfect. Take a piece of 1/8" thick clear acrylic plastic and tape it up with masking tape. Clamp into position and using sharp pencil mark the tape. Carefully using a band saw, belt sander cut out the penciled area. Remove the tape and move around the board until you find the perfect wood you want to use as an INSERT right thru that nice hole in the dash. The clear acrylic allows you to see the exact area.

The wood area will be routered out and the wood will come right thru the dash for 1/4---3/8". I may also do the center area where switches and cigarette lighter sit, either as a cut out , or 1/4" thick piece glued to the area.

I wetted the two wood boards with damp cloth to try to show the level of wood grain available to use.
mike lynch

 

is there room behind the dash for the remainder of the board? on my 33 the top of the dash almost rests against the horizontal wood support.

 

TB33, on a roadster dash it attaches to the wood framing by screws from the inside or the 4---- 1/4" holes on the ends. On the top of the master closed car dash that was pictured, there are holes all along the top that would clamp down the dash panel to the factory wood across that area. I would place screws down thru the metal into the wood below to hold it in place.

Yes there is room behind the dash where the excess wood can sit.

The way the dash fits in on a roadster is much different than closed cars. I think I posted pictures back a while, see if I can dig one out and post here.

Your 33 should have the dash panel screwed down from the top and then the windshield garish molding screws down into that.
its a tough thing to explain the differences..........pictures speak many words.

Cannot find the pictures of the 34 master dash modified to fit a roadster by making it 2" wider Will get around to posting pics of how I did it, when I get to it. Frame finishing is primary concern right now after tearing it all apart to open it up for 6 speed.

mike

 

i can't wait to see it done! the real wood is going to look great.

 

I used Black Walnut on my dash.

 

that looks good and gauges go right with the look. The gauges side of my 34 master dash, I am going to use a 1933 master photo etched brass stock panel . There is a guy doing repos of this. Not cheap at $275.00 . There is usally some good original used ones on ebay, priced anywhere from $25---50- Background is black and small part red. Takes 3 large gauges 3". I have 3 of those brass photo etched inserts to chose from , all used at various prices.

Interesting the way the 33 cabriolet dash has screws going thru the face of it. Never noticed that before.

mike lynch

 

As your building your car, its one new challenge after another. Shazzbott my 35 chev roadster is getting a 6 speed stick which has caused all kinds problems. I had acquired 2-3 sets of brake clutch pedals out of 34- 35 car and I think a truck.. I had also purchased a new setup for a 35--40 ford, but after a lot of mucking around, decided nope not going to function properly. Back to plan A using stock pedals.

There is a basic 1935 only X member pedal stamped bracket and luckily I had 2 of them , because I messed up one big time. Also there is 2 diff lengths of pedals for some reason. I chose the longer at 11" from center of pedal pivot up too the foot area. You want to get a minimum of 5---1 pedal ratio, so made the pickup point 1 1/2" off center of pivot to give me a 7--1 ratio, which will allow a lot of pedal pressure on the brakes.

That main stamped bracket was missing whatever is supposed to keep the shaft tight to the bracket. A piece of 1" , 1/4" wall tube and drilled it out to 3/4" to match the shaft. Cut it to sit in the shaft area and welded a couple of pieces to it and drilled them for bolts. I have no idea exactly what the stock piece is supposed to look like. But this will do nicely.

I had some brackets water jet cut to wrap around pivot area of the pedals, welded those yesterday. I also took my grinder with flap disc and proceeded to grind the surfaces to check for cracks. Found the clutch pedal was real tight in the stock area and took air die grinder and opened the area to the pedal moves freely. Dug out the Lokar brake clutch pedal pads, neat item has 1/2" stud holes on back and two available holes to play with. I have a pair of original pedal rubber pads to go over stock metal ones. Not sure if I will use them or not.

Dug out the big drifts and got the 3/8" allen heads into the holes which ties the side frame together with the X member really stiffening it up.

Next up is making a bracket that goes from center of the X member to each rail and allow the driveshaft to also pass thru , again to increase the strength of the frame again. Cutting the stock X has caused a lot of beefing up I would not have had to do if I ran an auto .

Some pictures of what I did and finally did.
mike lynch

 

Some days are an adventure and stuff happens.

Getting up to hit shower, dog wants me to pick her up and put onto bed. As I head to shower nail left foot toes into bed post.............which causes me to lose balance spin and hit closet doors, spin off and hammer shower room door, followed by a full face / shoulder plant into the hard wood floor. MANY MANY bad words were spoken, limped down the stairs on ass on stairs.

After a while the pain subsided in my foot and shoulder started feeling better. So decided to lift frame higher so I can drill the 1/2" holes thru trans mount into frame. Needless to say mayhem was soon discovered again. This time in the grip of my 1/2" drill , it jammed in the hole, 3 times and twisted my wrist and the last time laid waste to my thumb, which 24 hours is still screaming at me.

Not much I can do pressing onward when your right hand is hurt and YOUR RIGHT HANDED. Even giving somebody a thumbs up aches !!!

Theres always tomorrow.

mike lynch

 

We all have those kind of days, just hope they do not come in bunches like grapes.

 

Friday spent all day drilling holes , putting bolts and nuts in.

I have NO NEW INJURIES to report. Hallelujah !!!

 

I hate getting hurt in the Fall. It seams those wounds last all Winter, especially muscle and joint injuries.

 

Back at it again , working on shazzbott my 35 chev roadster. With the stock X member savagely attacked by me in order to get that tremec 6 speed in, now is the further beefing up to strengthen after the hefty trans cross member was designed , made and installed. Stronger but still not beefy enough for 500 HP and some 450 + ft lbs torque...

So sitting in garage today I came up with a vision of what needs to be done to battleship strong this X member area.
Was looking at the 10 gauge plate and then dug out some 4 gauge 3/16 plate, yup that's the one am going to use. Made the cardstock pattern and it fit tight between the rails

Out comes the zip cutter disc and the 4 1/2" metal hole saw and away we go for the next 4 hours cutting out the plate. Pictures show where its going to sit and will make another one later that will sit about 9" farther back. But I will need to re-install the jaguar rear end to get the correct angle for the driveshaft hole. Jag center section rear is solid mounted so the rear plate can also work as a driveshaft loop.

When you look at the trans + shifter you say, its on a lean, well it is and tremec trans is like that on the top . Even their car show display is like that.......

Getting there one job at a time !!!!!!!!
Happy to report no injuries to hands or feet for 2nd day..........that's a win.
mike lynch

 

Mike Just a thought about the structural function of that cross member. It will be subjected to torsional forces from the side rails Such as when the let’s say the right front tire goes over a bump causing the right rail to rise above the at rest plane of the right and left rails.
If the cross member was fabricated as a square tube with a hole in it that has the hole plated closed such as a pipe. The shape would resist the torque better than a channel shape.

Mike

 

Mike I am no engineer , just doing what I think is right to restore the structural integrity to the 35 standard chassis once I hacked it up. I am more than willing to listen to educated experience. The 2 x 2 square tube would have dropped the tail shaft too far making for more degrees at the tail shaft.

The 1935 chassis for the standard is much beefier than anything Chevrolet had produced before. It has an X member that starts at the front axle and continues thru to over the rear axle. To that they added assorted bracketry in the center and the corners of the X to re-inforce. The running board brackets ( not shown ) run from the side to the of the x and join with the stock transmission cross member creating more rigidity.

Pictures of brackets shown today are those the factory has installed. I think the front of the x where it meets the side rails tri-angulated stamped piece. Not sure if it only came on the top, but I have installed one on the lower too.
On drivers side the pedal stamped bracket is plenty beefy, but I have another of those tri-angulated brackets to mount underneath when the frame gets flipped upside down..

The 4 gauge 3/16 plate for the power booster is overkill, but its going to add to the beefiness. I plan on doing a similar bracket on the pass side where the battery is normally, stock, mounted. But its going to be trunked .

mike lynch

 

Mike I mean no derogatory comment of your work. You are very good.
I just offered this for your consideration. If that piece of paper represents the front of the crossmember then I am suggesting that you place another similar piece say 6 or 8 inches to the rear and then add a top and a bottom piece of plate. The hole thru which the tail shaft passes would be plated with a “pipe” like piece.

Mike.