Hot Rods 64 C10 - Daily Driver Build

Save your cylinder head money for the 350. Look at Northern Auto Parts on the internet for the best prices on rebuild kits. They have a 350 master kit for a little over 200 bucks


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Thanks for the tip.

 

Thinking of gearing the build towards producing as much torque as possible since most of the time my motor will be in the driving range of 1000 RPM - 4500 RPM. Found this package http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1070tk

The cam in this combo is 278 intake/288 exhaust Adv Dur, with lobe separation at 112. They offer a smaller cam that is labeled as a very strong torque producer at 250 int & 258 exh Adv Duration.

Need to find a better set of heads, looking for some 3987041's with the 64 cc chamber.
The set of heads that came with the engine are casting number 458624's which I heard are not very good flowing heads and are prone to cracking. My wife's uncle who sold me the motor used to work in a machine shop and I noticed that the intake valves are pretty large. Not sure of the size though.

My transmission is a TH350, which I think I will add a stall of 2500-2600? Maybe a smaller stall? Would it be best to keep the comp ratio at 9:1? My rear tires are 30 inches tall with a factory rear with 3.73 gears. What do you guys think? Any suggestions/tips to help create a very strong torque based motor?

Also got this book coming in the mail, "How to Hotrod SB Chevys by Bill Fisher &Bob Waar"
Thanks,
Mark

 

Found this on the net, not too sure about the accuracy.

DISHED PISTONS:
76cc heads = 8:1
64cc heads = 9:1
58cc heads = 10.1

FLAT TOP PISTONS:
76 heads = 9:1
64cc heads = 10:1
58cc heads= 11:1

0.100 DOME:
76cc heads = 10:1
64cc heads = 11:1


.200" DOME:
76cc heads = 11:1
64cc heads =12:1


You could have the 71-newer L82, Z28 (71-74) Flat top forged pistons
OR the LT-1, L46, Z/28 0.100" Dome forged pistons from the 69-70 era.


Of course Deck height and gasket thickness is not taken into account.

 

That looks pretty accurate and the Northern kit should work well. The cam at first looked a little steep with the 278/288 numbers, but the .050 numbers are another story. Are the heads in question going to need work? You may be better off with new heads for a few bucks more.

Speedway has this steel Dart stock car claimer head complete for a good price.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dart...ck-Chevy-Super-Stock-Head-Complete,34612.html

 

Yes sir the heads look like they would need some work. At the very Least I would want to get them milled, new valves rocker and springs etc. Haven't heard good things about that casting number so I am in the market for a different set of heads.Those Darts look like a good deal, I'm seriously considering buying a set.

 

The camshaft that comes in that kit is the Melling MTC 1. I have that exact cam in my 350 crate engine that was in my OT 1985 Chevy Suburban. It had 3.08 rear gears and a 700R-4 transmission. The Melling camshaft really woke up that 350. It still idled smooth and worked fine with a stock lockup torque converter. By the way, the Melling cam has the exact same specifications as the Edelbrock Performer camshaft. Gee, I wonder if Melling makes it for Edelbrock???


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Good confirmation of the kit. Nice to use the stock converter and have a decent idle to it. I wouldn't go crazy on the heads, after market stuff is nice but you may get a good deal on a set of rebuilt stock heads as an exchange, some machine shops and parts stores do that service. With other heads you have to make sure you get all the accessory holes with them. You don't need things like guide plates for the pushrods either. Keep it simple is the best bet.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Thank you sir, I have even read that some part stores offer factory style heads, just depends on model year etc. I will shop around for a cheaper version but if not at least I know about those Darts. I just want a beefy/stout built block based around heavy torque since my truck is in the vicinity of 3,400-3,500 lbs. Of course a nice sound coming from it is a plus.The little old 283 pulls strong but I can tell it's working a little bit to get it moving.

 

New heads aren't cheap. The least expensive cast iron Promaxx ones Summit carries are $764 a pair. I think my Dart aluminum heads are now around $600 each. But like I said earlier you're better off keeping it as stock as possible.

 

Yes sir, thanks.

 

A before shot of the block. Cleaned it up afterwards and found that the pistons have a 30 stamped on the top so it looks like it’s a 355.
Cylinders look pretty good, I’m hoping a dingle berry honing will be all that it needs. Then align & deck along with a good cleaning and mag and hopefully it should be good to go.

 

I thought you had to be .060 over to get to a 355. With .030 over you may have a 352.5............

 

Not exactly sure, read it here http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=118/prd118.htm

 

With a 3.48" stroke .030 over on a 350 gets you a 355.

 

You need to have a proper honing done with a good cross-hatch so the new rings will seat. Go with a standard shop rebuild, the align hone/bore (if needed) and a decking are cafeteria menu add-ons. The crank needs to be looked at too, the .010-under on mine ran me $175 alone.

 

I stand corrected. .060 would be a 360ci.

 

If they hone it correctly will it stay the same or will I have to go up to .040 over? Cylinder walls were heavy coated with grease when the engine was stored so they do not have any pitting. Definitely going to have them look at the crank to see if I can use the same one. If not I might purchase the one that Northern Auto recommends to go with the package.

 

The hone job should only remove a very minimal amount, you're only trying to refresh the cross hatch pattern to seat new piston rings, assuming that is all that is needed.
By the way, +.040 gives you 357 cubic inches, I had a 355 in my race car in the 70's and currently have a 357 in my 66 Suburban.

 

Thank you Bob,

Thank you sir, how did the 355 run? I am planning on building mine based heavy towards the torque side. Want a lot on the low end. Well if the block checks out I will keep it at .030 if it should need more then its .040.

 

My Dad gave me this yesterday. Now I just need to figure out how to use it?

 

start looking for a serial number/model tag... it is probably a piece of metal, riveted on somewhere. Might be stamped into the body in a odd place.

Then start searching online for manuals. There are a lot of scanned manuals out on the net for older machines...

 

I almost forgot he gave me the manual too. I'm assuming when connected to an engine it gets it's power....?

 

Probably has an AC cord on it somewhere.

 

I've never used one myself, just recall seeing them or their variations at garages in the 1980s.

 

Some patch work I did a couple of months back...

 

Fiberglass was just a crude spread to seal for the meantime due to all the rain we have been getting over the winter but I did sand it a little. Still need passenger side but I also patched the inner door frame at the top, covered with seam sealer and primer for now. Can't wait for Summer.

 

Where did all your photos go MUNCIE?

-Woog