Projects Front engine dragster-Chassis Research 1958 -"Moon Rocket"

Where the upper and lower hoops behind your back intersect is a good starting point for your chute teather mount, just make sure the tab grabs both tubes, also a plate on the oposite side reinforcing the intersect weld, the last thing you want is the chute to pull that weld apart, especialy if the belts are attached and you get pulled thru. A 3/8" bolt is fine for the teather attachment as long as there is at least 5/8" of material around the hole and you machine a 1" dia alu slug to go between the tabs/mount so that the teather pulls on the larger dia instead of the bolt dia.
"strap that rear center section even on a 9 in rear" is completely BS, never has a gear come out the rear cover, even when we were putting out 3000 HP and a 17" wide tire. We would knock the teeth off but NEVER exploded one, all that strap stuff is spectater/bleacher lore

 

Thanks for input! Well, thats not a good idea to have the belt with chute unless its skydiving
But Ill do a 9", because to much trouble getting that old banjo race ready. A 9" built with good raceparts, is pretty safe.

 

Just a stupid detail. ..
I couldnt find these brackets for the front end. I was suppose to weld these on the rail , when we welded all the pipes , BUT I couldnt find these... I had put them on a "place so I never forget where they are". Most stupid idea. Well this stupid detail..I found them today, in a box, in the trunk of My Olds..
Anyways, I can finaly weld these on, and order a tie rod between the fiat steering box and spindle.

 

I was wondering a bit how to connect all the fuel lines. The IN , is clearly direct from fuel tank , the big one in bottom. Then I dont now for sure the releif ? OUT goes to fuel distrubiter on intake right? should I connect bypass and releif to return on the top of tank? its a PG-150A pump with 1-2951 stamped in it.
Made for alcohol? Or maybe totaly wrong?

 

From your pic that shows the pump with all the fittings you obviously know the inlet the top fitting in the pic is the main bypass and should go back to the tank the one with the shutoff is the one that goes to the barrel valve on the intake and the lower one is for the high speed bypass if you need it and yes that is a big pump and will work with alky depending on your motor i would recommend to call and talk with Mike at alkydigger about your tune up he is very good and very helpful I dig your car a lot


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Feels good you like the car, helps me carrie on.
I need to contact alkydiggers, so Im on right track. Maybe send over pump and stuff to have it flowed.

 

A dash 1 pump is a big pump...around 7 gal per minute. Be sure and have it flowed and then you can work with one of the injector guys like alkydiggers or Spud Miller from
FIE or Don Enriquez at Hilborn to determine nozzle and jet size. Probably have to return
a lot of alcohol to the tank.

 

Some minor work on the chute release handlebar. Made this bracket (need to trim when putting on place)
Cut a socket head bolt and shortened grind it and , now this little detail is mountable .

 

Need to talk to those guys, and need to flow it. And also size of nozzles and so on.
Like your inputs guys, helps me out alot

 

Small uppdate, but made a bracket Mount for chassi to the chute and came up with a Idea, make som pinned bolts
so these were made
much better look then hex head.
hope you like it

 

Made two tubes today, to complete the chassi, and the right tube, will I fit the chute handle.

 

Okay, this morning I tried this out in the cockpit, but No, aint gonna work..
I couldnt reach it easy. So , a new location is set, and new brackets are almost done. I Guess why other feds have that pull ring on shoulder, or near shoulder..

 

I found this old bus stop button many years ago, I think its from the early 60's
How ever, its cast aluminium, and shaped for mount on a tube. So this is now a start button instead! Of course I will polish it as chrome tomorow Ill check it out , see if the starter button will look good and if the new chute handle bracket does the work.

 

Ill think this will work, the chute handle goes on the inside of the brakehandle. feels like it is easy to reach , and use. okey, so now the cockpit starting feel complete, with shifter to left, pedals and steering of course in the middle, then the brakehandles to right. Now I need to use the welder, to fit those brackets.

 

Im waiting for a surprice, maybe arrives tommorow... I let you know, thats for sure!
Got a old nice book today, realy good info in this piece . Just gonna figure out witch class my fed ends up in. You know that allready right? You know those letters on the body A/A for example..

 

Ive been waiting for this moment....!
Finally!! I now have a Magneto for my engine , with internal coil, and with mechanical tach drive
damn, that feels good!
now look for some new cables and check condition, there is spark when turning.
Is it special cables/wires for this unit? Any no no s?

 

I think you want a solid core wire.

 

Solid core wires and if the mag is good don't be turning it and holding the wire it will bite you lol I dig your setup man


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So if it bites me, its a Good sign
Where can I find solid core wires?
And how to Mount those in the lid?

 

Summit has solid core wires. Or Jegs. Not hard to find ,at least here in USA.

 

They should have here too, I hope , I just need to find the Swedish Word for it hahaha

 

If you take the cap off, turn it over, you will see small slot screws they have a point on the end that will pierce the plug wire to make the contact and hold the wires in the cap.

 

Just a thought here. Most chute release handles are small liteweight aluminum pieces where the resistence of the wire thru the loop keeps them up. While stylish, under instant acceleration your big and heavy handle there "could" come back and release the laundry. Leave it as is, but if the chute opens without touching the handle, you will have the answer. Dragracing is a science of accelerating weight, If you remove 100# of excess weight, you also remove a 10th of a second off your time-slip

 

Ahhh...now I noticed the screws under cap to Mount the wires....
And what about the connecting on the Side, is that for turn off ignition??

 

Saw this post after posting below

 

I

I have been thinkin on this issue, specially the big brakehandle, and yeah, also the chutehandle, putting a spring, preventing the force vs weight.

 

A wire from the post to a switch, the other terminal of the switch to ground, A magneto is always live, and you shut it off by grounding it. If it does not have an advanced built in and is locked out, for starting , the mag is grounded and the motor spun over a couple revs and then switch to break ground and the motor should fire

 

Hum, Little lost here, what does -advanced built in , mean?
Or how does that work?

 

just ignore that...the ground is to kill the spark,so put the wire to a switch-that's it...worry about an advance mechanism later ,if at all!....

 

Without knowing the history of the mag, just a little info is all, The tag should mention if there is an advance curve built in. Usual settings with curve is say 15deg while starting, then goes full advanced once the engine starts. cars that are pushed or blower started have the advanced removed.Vertex mags were for industrial motors where a generator/battery was not needed. Just plug a battery in and turn the switch, the advance curve just made the starting eaiser