On my ‘29 build the distance from the connection on the brake pedal to the master cylinder is a longer than the pushrod that came with it. My idea was to cut off the master cylinder end, threading it and getting an adequate diameter and length of tubing, tap both ends then use a bolt, clevis combination for extra adjustment. Kinda new to all this but heard the tubing is stronger than solid rod. Good idea, bad idea, suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There are plenty of clutch pushrods that use a similar adjustable arrangement. Just be sure you use thick wall "tubing" and a locknut if needed. I'm thinking one of those hex shaped threaded connectors would be just the ticket. If I happen to be off the point, just make it strong and safe. You want your brake links to stand up to high stress.
You have it figured out . I have made a few using a Heim joint and threading a piece of round bar stock . Just turn or grind the MC end down as needed . Be sure to allow a slight amount of “play” when released , to be sure it will release a 100% each time you use the brakes .
It’s easier to tap a thread in tube, than to do one in solid rod, unless you have access to a lathe. Can’t imagine that tube is stronger that rod, but is lighter and easier to work with. Size (diameter) should be relative to length. If you want to be clever, do a left and right hand thread, then it will be easier to adjust.
Ace Hardware has a selection of couplers that may help. Speedway has a nice brake/clutch pedal rod selection which has saved me a couple of times.
Its just a bolt with the 'hex' head cut off. Use a Grade 8 fine thread, whack the head off and give it a little bullnose to into the MC and you're done.
Just make sure that when you add to the exsisting rod by using a "threaded Hex coupling" that the Outside diameter of the rod still acuates the plunger without hitting the opening in the back of the MC and hanging up. Since the rod that acuates the plunger does go in at an angle there could be interference even if you use Heavy wall tubing. Ask me how i know... just saying
Some old parts stores will probably have an assortment of pedal rods, never hurts to look. This is where having a friend that owns a machine shop comes in handy.
Ive got such a friend. Decided on 5/8 120 wall tubing. Gonna thread one end for the heim joint n nut then weld the master cylinder end to the other side.
not a big fan of the couplers. my friend Sam Strube is given me a hand with this. Happy to have him in my corner.
As stated just don’t bottom the MC , allow a bit of free play and be sure coupler is not stopping full stroke of the pedal . Other than stuff you got it covered . Adjustable is the answer
Made one on the roadster. I think it was 7/16" rod. Threaded one end for a heim joint and ground the other down to a ball end to actuate the M/C plunger. Works fine.
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