It seems like a trivial thing to think twice about but I know that on my 37 coupe‘s original engine it will be a nice finishing touch. I’m not set on originality but what looks good & functions well is more important to me. The coolant system is a no pressure or very minimal 2lbs pressure system. I’m using the Gates green stripe fabric style hoses & will use 8 clamps on the 4 hoses. Currently I have two “ideal” clamps which are thinner than the others and I like that width (approximately 3/8”) with a 1/4” nut vs the 1/2” wide ones with a 5/16” nut. Since they are stainless steel they polish up nicely with a little Wenol & my Dremel with a polish wheel. If I stay with these worm drive clamps, I think I’d like to find ones which are all stainless steel, nut included. So before I run off & grab something, I’d like to hear or see what others have done. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Have saved GOOD hose clamps my whole life. After the past few years of seeing new Chinese clamps not usable from the box, I'm glad I have a supply. Where are you ???
A water well supply place has those. They have to be all stainless, as they are exposed to water.....and can be buried underground. .
Located in Montana. Water well supply is a good idea and I suppose a boat parts supplier as well may have the all stainless steel. Here’s a picture of a couple of the hoses in place on the engine. I do like the clamps with less of a range in adjustability because they tend to have more of a solid band which looks great against the black fabric hose. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Look up clamps for mid 50's cars. Since your not looking at much pressure and the do have screw type clamping they will look good. They are cad plated which I clear coat so they stay shiny and are way more better looking than the modern stuff. I really like the "wire" looking ones on 30's cars.
The hose clamps that some guys are posting here are horrible, stainless steel or not. They have the holes through the band that basically cut the hose when you tighten them up and the rubber squeezes through the slots. If they sell them in the hardware store or even the auto parts store they’re junk. An industrial hose supplier can hook you up with the good stuff. ABA stainless steel gear clamps. I only use these clamps. Top quality and they don’t have any holes through them to cut the hose. http://www.normaamericasds.com/brand/aba
These tools can make hose clamps out of metal wire. Maybe not suitable for everything, but being a DIYer that often don't have the right parts available when I cobble something together in the middle of nowhere I do like the versatility of making clamps of any size. The one in the picture is one I made using some scrap.
Blue, I ran across some information today on a couple of your suggestions. The ABA brand I had only seen with a blue cover over the worm screw & incorrectly assumed they didn’t make a non-blue one. So thank you for sharing your knowledge with us I’m sure it will help a lot of people. This is why I love this place, so many great ideas & experiences are shared! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
This may sound crazy but I could see someone using that system of creating a wire hose clamp out of barbed wire for a rat rod. They could even make their own wire for it like in this picture. Naturally the barbs would have to not pierce the hose but I could totally see it being done! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Next time you're at the local Pick-N-Pull mosey on over to the high end import section. Pop the hood on some BMW and Mercedes and grab several sizes. I've gotten 'em as small as 1/4" and as big as 4" (in millimeters though). The slots are louvered (much stronger) and the clamp edges are beaded and rolled (also much stronger) and they won't cut into the hose. Made in Germany too, not Taiwan or India. These are quality clamps at dirt cheap prices! They even have the sizes stamped on them in millimeters. Being stronger they're able to be much thinner also. Check out the comparison. The cheap parts store clamps just have slots stamped in them, sharp edges and they're much fatter. The German ones you can torque on 'til your hearts content! One time I paid $.25 apiece and another time they just waived me through. I use these all over the roadster!
I use the OEM wire spring clamps, I save all off of parts vehicles. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That's a good tip! These are generally known as "Euro" or "European" hose clamps You can Google search new ones. Also, search "nonperforated hose clamps". The perforated hose clamps can deform and fail at the worm drive, plus they damage the rubber and cause it to actually cut and extrude through the holes. About 15 years ago, I was heavy into turbocharged engines and needed hose clamps that could be torqued tight for high pressures and had to be able to be reused. Those worked great for me. They tend to look better, too. I like to put the pretty side up and the worm drive knuckles underneath. Sadly for you true believers and zealots, they do have that Euro label and metric labeling, etc. But what's a little blasphemy considering how well they work in the long run?
If you have to make up your hose from two pieces with a connector pipe in the center, rather than using four metal clamps and getting a too busy appearance on your hose, I like to use the Gates shrink to fit clamps, readily available in any size. After you sand the lettering off the clamp your two piece hose will almost appear as one solid hose.
The Jalopy Journal
