What is the best latch to install on a 28 model A? I would want to try and use my original outside and inside door handles. I can fab the parts to do this I think but my main concern is the small space and I'd like a set I could get the plates for the door to make it easier to install.
Good stock latches work well. However, if anybody has done bear claw latches, I'd be interested to see information posted on the details of such a swap.
My latches work fine, the stock ones, I was referring to the bear claw type of latch. I've heard horror stories about the doors coming open on these cars so I was going to install a latch with a striker. I just found Hot rod latches on the internet, they have large, small and micro with installation kit for $52.
When a Customer tells me they Must have Bear Claw style in Model A style doors I just cringe. But I have done it and also kept the window channel where it belongs. It isn't easy. What I have done is put the actual latch in the B post and the catch pin in the door. Now I can install the solinoid in the Quarter as well as run a long cable down the quarter under the floor back up the A post and into the door to connect to the stock door handle. Yes it's a little more involved than that but you get the idea. The Wizzard
Boy, that is really thinking outside the box. Any pic's of how it looks in the pillar and door edge???
I also see where some put a slide type safety lock on the inside, guess I could go that route, I didn't think about the window channel. I've seen of the bear claw latches installed that looked butchered. Stood out like a sore thumb.
So this car won't have outside handles but will have them inside on the door. That requires a cable to get the job done. Here's how the door looks latched closed, yes the latch is fully adjustable. With the door open you can see the latch pin. The pin is threaded 3/8" and goes into a 7/8" hole with a steel threaded block in a cage on the inside the door. Here is the threaded block in the cage behind the glass channel. The actual Bear Claw is in the B post. Here's the back side and where the power unit will connect up. Obviously this is a work in progress. Nothing new for me. Hope this gives you some ideas. The Wizzard
I can sell you the latches,but as previously mentioned for model A it is tough for clearance. The issue is the window channel and edge of the door, there just isn't good room. PM me for more info if you want, see my website for information also. Sent from my SM-J337V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks, I took the old latches out, there is 0 clearance in there. I have new springs for them but I heard of people having problems with them coming open. That could have been from the body and frame flexing. I'll see if I can come up with a safety latch on the inside for piece of mind. Just don't want it to stand out to much.
Often times the reason doors open by them self is that the body sub rails are failing along with the wood blocks giving up. It don't take much sag or flex to release the door latch. Do some home work and make sure everything is in top shape and tight. Loose or missing body to frame bolts are another big problem. It's slow growing age related things that add up to a big problem. The Wizzard
The other side of the latch install, it can be done relatively easy: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...model-a-coupe-a-repost.1102036/#post-12500120 Have fun. Canuck
Safety features are " Catch 22s" or a perverted version of Newton's Law. Every action has an equal and opposite reaction..... The good thing about a "Nader Pin" is it keeps the door from opening. The bad thing about a Nader Pin is it keeps the door from opening. With 20 years in fire and medical I have extricated many many people after a collision. Most of the time the heavy tools are used just to open the doors. A lot of times it's easier to pop a door off from the hinge side vs the pin side. Since an A is such a small car with the gasoline so close to the hot engine or pipes..., you may want to make a fast exit after a minor collision. For a closed car I recommend seat belts.
On a car with very narrow door opening like a Model A closed car a protruding fixed pin sticking out in the opening is a grate Got ya. Seems worse on the Driver side. One reason I do things just a bit different than some. The Wizzard
My buddy had a 32 coupe with bear claws installed and as a passenger getting in and out of the car it was problematic since 9 out of 10 I would get a belt loop hooked up on the peg in the B pillar. That is why I was interested in your reverse install version.
i vote for use model a's... a real good used one trumps the repops… IMO... if you run a reversed latch [B pillar] think about linkage running to a small panel under your outer subfloor that activates the switch from an upward push with your toe...
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