I'm tired of screwing them up and having doovers. These HF"s and other's all look the same and I bet they are no matter who's name is on them. I looked up internet solutions and saw and watched lever action flaring tools. I also saw a better tight bender than I have now. I also saw a "one size" for working in a cars 3/16" brake lines. I'm not looking cheap junk here and I can't warrant a hydraulic one. What do you guys use other than the cheapo's? Thanks
I bought one like this from NAPA that I really like. Almost all the stuff I do is 3/16" brake lines. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-243...516831&sr=8-8&keywords=3/16+double+flare+tool
WZ.. That looks like the one I saw for working on lines in the car. I'm sure it will work on the bench too. Jim... If it's 2 decades it might be made in the USA. nunattax... Do you like the Eastwood?
I wonder if the material in the modern day lines is at fault? I never used to have problems, but over the last 8-10 years, I have very minor weeping when using DOT5 silicone fluid (which will leak when DOT 3 won't). If everything else on the planet has gone to shit in quality, maybe the lines are not what they used to be?..maybe too many melted down bicycles in the Asian steel foundry?? I started making my own soft copper conical gaskets from .016 and this will seal all the weeping. .
For bending I use one like this but made by Robinair. A little oil on the bender seems to help make smooth bends. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-243...516831&sr=8-8&keywords=3/16+double+flare+tool I like one of these to do adjustments and for really tight bends. https://www.amazon.com/Gino-Develop..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=RJY37RJFNVHB7QY5MTF4
There was a recent thread on the use of conical washers. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...tive-flared-fitting-leak-for-20-cents.128479/
I used to have the same problem, but (I know you don’t want to hear this) I swallowed hard and bought a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. The nice thing is, it will also do some of the goofy ends on late model fuel lines. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I also bought mine at Eastwood. I picked up the AN flaring set as well since I do a bit of both. These are double flares on stainless steel, tidy and it will save you a trip to the gym that night. Especially stainless fuel line. I flared every connection on my 34's brake and fuel lines and had zero leaks. Great investment and once you get the nag of it, very fast and easy to use. Chalk up your tubing, turn the dial to OP0 and it squares it up in the dye, turn the dial to OP1 and bubble the tubing, turn it again to OP2 and double flare.
I've got the same one that Billy has and really like it but haven't had need to use it a lot. I have the old SnapOn one similar to the KD that Jim showed that I have had for over 45 years and can't remember exactly when I bought it. It is getting a bit tired. That greenish coated tubing that the parts houses sell now is a pain to flair right for me at least. What helps as much as anything is making sure the blade on your tube cutter is sharp and using a deburring tool made for tubing to clean up the cut.
and that tubing cutter can create enough friction and heat as a result to harden the tubing causing it to split when flared. I was taught to cut it off quickly with a cut off wheel then debur inside and out and lubricate it before flaring.
Cutting wheel hardens the end of any steel it cuts off, I'll argue that one. Plus unless you have it in one of those little chop saw setups made for an angle grinder you will never get a straight cut.
There was a tubing on the market in the '80s, used to get it from Campbell Automotive (CA.) Name of the stuff was "Kant-Kink'. Easy to bend, and double flared like it was lead! ('soft' to flare, bent tightly around corners with that little single hand stamped 'hickey' that was 3" long...) I double flared it with my old Snap On flare tool (like Squirrel's) which came in the red plastic box. (Snap-On was encrypted on the box lid...must have done 20 flares in a day, 3 street roadster jobs.
The “new” NICOP tube will make , Gomer and Gober look like Floyd Cottington built it . You really have to try to make a mistake flaring or bending this stuff .