hi all,done a search and cant seem to find a lot on this subject.sure this has been asked before.please don,t shoot me down too much.whats the best head gaskets to use with alloy Navarro heads on 8ba flatty.motors virtually full race spec.what sealer do you use on studs.im in the uk and there aren't a lot of suppliers.im pulling the heads because ive got small water leak at base of heads to block,either gasket or studs.got fel pro gaskets at the min.there blue if that makes a difference.heads are only a yr old.will check with straight edge.whats the toque of heads .is it all in one go or gradually.books ive got are all different.how many times do you re torque after a heat cycle,this is my 1st flatty,so im still learning.
I've used Felpro and Best gaskets in the past. Best gaskets seem to have the best rep from what I've heard. I torqued the EAB heads with Best gaskets on my flattie in 3 steps and re torqued them 2 times after initial start up. Can't really offer any advice on your Navarro's other than to say follow their advice and as BJR said make sure you use sealer on the studs. Since I was running stock heads I used bolts not studs but either needs to be sealed. The machinist that did my short block said to use #2 Permatex and I had no leaks but I'm sure there are many other opinions about sealers that also work equally or better.
I bought the Best brand copper gaskets from Speedway, they came with instructions printed by Speedway. They recommend using a high temp silver paint to coat the gaskets, thread sealer on the studs and ceramic stop leak in the radiator. I have done this twice now, both times with excellent results.
I believe it is a mistake to use copper gaskets with aluminum heads. The dissimilarity in metals will promote corrosion. I have always used Fel-Pro composite head gaskets on my builds. I use "Permatex" thread sealer on all of the head bolts, and use only regular grease on the mating surfaces. I always check to make sure the head and deck surfaces are absolutely flat. I have built three engines over the last couple of years following this protocol and have experienced no problems with any of them. I should emphasize that I am just a hobbyist (not a professional engine builder), but decided that since I was getting old, I should finish the good engines I had in my possession.
I used permatex on studs and felpro gaskets , multiple leaks from studs and weeping coolant from the top rear head to block area. So then I tried loctite thread sealant 567 and tried best gaskets and a spray sealer. At this stage it looks good
My friend used the Best copper gaskets on his heads and the material between the 2 copper surfaces squeezed out. Went to composite gaskets.
yes put sealer on studs,though cant remember the brand,cream coloured.pulled the heads today.can,t see anywhere gaskets have failed.leaking from several studs.another side note none of my books say retorque after heat cycle.did a bit of googleing.might be where ive gone wrong.
My Navarro heads were not flat, not a big deal since we fine tuned the CR anyway by decking those heads a bit. Heads that aren't flat won't seal no matter what you do so word to the wise, check them. I used studs with sealant on the threads, best gaskets and no leaks. Re-torqued after burn in.
time for update.after I pulled one head found a couple of studs leaking.could see gasket leak.when I pulled the other head I thought I,d use torque wrench to undo nuts.nowhere near the specified torque setting.the first head was,nt that hard to undoby hand.strange.couple of stud leaks.gasket also leaking.got me thinking.heads not distorted.some thing got me thinking about stud washers.looked further all washers cupped a bit.cut one in half.normal mild steel washer which had been chromed,not hardened ones.i think I lost torque setting because of cupping of washer and pulling into head slightly,which explains the marks on head.pulled into head when its got hot over the last year.slight dish in head.what do you think.got all the new bits fitting up at w.end.
The Jalopy Journal
