Projects Almost Funny - AWB Barracuda Funny Car Build

Hey like I said it'll be interesting to watch your approach, I usually see a whole different perspective of how you go about things. Yes, from what you wrote it looks like it liked the street. How did the front springs hold up on the trip ?

 

The springs worked ok, but I want to get some new ones made...

 

There is a thread on the subject. Mechanical injection uses three circuits.
Idle
Off idle to about 6000rpm
High speed lean out above 6000 rpm
It will work on the street. It just won't be at the right air fuel ratio except when its idling or wot.
The other issue is finding a air filter that doesn't look horrible. Hilborn makes a filter to go in their upright injector scoops.

 

Just a FYI
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1201-mechanical-fuel-injection-breakin-the-rules/
http://hawkesfuelsystems.blogspot.com/2012/01/can-mechanical-fuel-injection-be-run-on_12.html

Nick

 

There is a guy named augie Delgado from California I think that runs a stack injector on the street in a chevy he has accomplished it granted there are drawbacks it's not gonna be like a new car but it can be done just like Jim's ignition it can and does work just not for everyone


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I had a chance to talk to Mike about this the last day of Drag Week...that was a fun conversation

(edit: wrenchbender--this is the article about Augie)

 

Jim,

Sorry that I couldn't make it to the track- just too much going on at the same time, including family health issues, but
Brad said you guys had a couple great talks!

Was going to mention the Hotrod article about mechanical fuel injection for the street , but too many beat me to the punch

 

Jim, you need to get in touch with Merek Chertkow. Merek was the driver of the Ramcharger's T/F car. He has a full on comp coupe that he drives regularly on the street. He has the injection (on a blower) working with some sort of an idle circuit that allows the car to start and idle with out priming the pump. No electronics, or computer, It's perfect for a vintage look. Merek now lives in Utah, and is a member on the HAMB.

 

If the tank is higher than the pump it's always primed. To get the engine started the valve for the shut off is pulled to full open. The gas pedal is pushed all the way down. The engine cranked key off for a few seconds. This primes the engine the same as squirting from a bottle. After the engine is started to build heat fast the fuel valve can be partially closed leaning the engine out. The engines rpms will rise. I have found once the engine fires the rest of the day it doesn't need to be reprimed.

 

I saw a diagram in an article about mechanical injection on the street way back when they were still hauling in dirt to cover the rocks on this planet. As I recall, they used a small (1/2 gallon or so) rectangular tank high on the firewall fed by an electric fuel pump with the level controlled by a Holley float bowl mounted on the end of the tank. The injection pump pulled fuel from that little tank and returned to it too I think.

Seems like it might have been in the Crower catalog in the early 70's. Not at all sure about that.

 

Come to think of it, Jim may not need a setup like that. His big front mounted tank may be higher than the injection pump already.

 

The tank I have now does not have all the return fitting bungs needed for mechanical injection. I should only need a 2 gallon tank for racing.

 

Jim has got this.
He will do whatever he wants, his way, and what ever direction he decides to go, it will work in time.

Just relax, sit back and let him show and tell us all in good time. The man must be exhausted.

God Bless ya Jim.
Glenn

 

And with the start of a new school year my guess is that he is still mentoring a local robotics team along with everything else on his plate.

 

heh...that's where I was this afternoon, and will get pretty heavy into it starting in January, I expect. And there's the LeMons Rally coming up the end of October....gotta get that LaSalle working right.

 

You need two returns on the tank. One for the idle return the other for the high speed. A third fitting is needed for the vent. The in cap vents don't vent enough air. If you are going with a separate tank then why not run methanol in it. If burned above 1200 degrees a increase in 9% more power could be gained.

 

Yes. One piece of the puzzle is the tank with the Holley float bowls.

 

Chris Buttera's 1969 Silver Camaro, did it with the small tank and float, covered in Hot Rod in the late 70's early 80s. His car and one of his dad's were on the cover.
Part throttle response and cruise is what you need on the street and what's not part of the program in mechanical FI. I'm sure a crafty guy could figure a way to get it to work well enough. The 'vettes were mechanical, after all...

 

Run the carbs on the street, injection on the strip. Could have a pair of dry carbs for throttle bodies for strip use. Would have to change it out when you got to the track, but it wouldn't take but a few minutes.

 

Junior Thompson is another guy to talk with he has setup quite a few Hilborn's with a special spool valve as that is what controls the amount of fuel given im sure there is an equation to determine exactly how much fuel the engine needs at light and part throttle and a custom spool can be machined I have made a couple different ones for a setup I have but haven't yet had the opportunity to use them yet


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No need for carb swap. Jim will just drive it like a train engineer.

 

Lest we forget Jim is a bad man with a even badd’r Barracuda.


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This is a cleaver way to filter a scoop,

 

Like this



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That is clever as you said but won't look right on Almost Funny

 

^^^^^ Show me a Funny with a radiator!

 

have you tried moving the module out of the distributor, and into a cooler place?
When I did that to mine, I havent had a module failure in several years.

WHY BE ORDINARY ?

 

This is what I have been thinking of doing.

It looks like it takes a lot of work to make mechanical injection work on the street, and still it never really works well. It's easy to make carbs work on the street, you just bolt it on and put fuel to it and it's good.

The fun part will be figuring out how to make it so the switch is relatively easy.

 

I have a feeling its not one of your main concerns rite now but do you have any lettering/artwork planned for down the sides etc. yet?

 

The float thing is period correct. All the factory awb mopars were equipped with that setup initially. Look at old magazines from the era. They had radiators to.
These parts didn't last long. The single Holley float with a single needle and seat couldn't flow enough fuel. At that time the gas tank was still under the trunk. They were trying to push the fuel with two electric pumps forward. You have to look at the whole picture. The radiators were pulled to save weight. Changes were happening weekly during this time. Let's also not forget they were not trying to street drive these cars so some compromises need to be made.