While growing up my family has always kept this truck (my great grandfather's farm truck) around and I recently acquired permission to start working on it. For me this is quite the undertaking as this will be my very first project vehicle and I have much to learn. Any tips & tricks, advise, information, warnings to watch out for certain things, etc. is greatly appreciated. Currently I'm trying to figure out what engine I want to put under the hood. Anybody out there that has worked on one of these trucks? Anybody have suggestions on what engines I should look into?I don't want to cut the hood. Just hoping to gain information from anyone more knowledgeable than myself. This is my first post on the first forum I've joined, so if I am posting this in under the wrong topic I'm going to apologize now. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Never seen one that straight or clean. great bones. A Ford 300 might be Bitchin' World HQ of all things IH is here: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php
Welcome to the HAMB. I don't know how long a Ford 6 is compared to a Chevy 6, but I have seen one with a Chevy 6 installed, and it was necessary to make a large cut in the firewall. My son has a KB1, and we are in the progress of installing a SB Chev V8. The small block Chevy or Ford would be a very reasonable installation. Bob
Bellybutton SBC... Regret selling mine, You got a Great start with Kool history! PS: nothing was cut for the SBC install
Thats a good looking kb. Get the GRD-214 running before you swap it, they are good simple engines and not hard to get parts for, swap the non syncro trans for a later with syncros, a higher geared rear-ended and enjoy it
I've always had a soft spot for IH KB models. You appear to have a good solid truck there to begin with and that is quite an advantage, as I am sure you recognize. I don't know what your ambitions are regarding this truck, but given it's origins in the family, I would suggest considering a 'respectful' approach. I am not sure if you are considered the 'owner' or the Family Custodian of the truck. If the latter, and you change the power train, choose something 'mild' not 'wild'. Something that doesn't require major cutting of the firewall for example. There are numerous potential and suitable engine trans choices out there. From the ubiquitous small block Chevy and Ford engines, mopar 318, AMC 304 (which uses a MOPAR Torqueflite), and other V8, V6 and inlines. Personally, I'd favor a 250 Chevy or 240/300 Ford six if either can be fitted without major surgery. But, in the end, it yours to do and to decide. Post your progress and ask any questions you might have. Welcome to the HAMB! Ray
Way to go. The front end and rear window are the best. I had a 41 that got chopped and ran a 440/727/9". Anything you have handy that runs good would work and be a cheap on the go motor/trans for your first. Spend your time/money on going through the suspension/brakes/steering and purchase a new wiring harness. Then you can play and upgrade along the way.
I am the owner of the truck. The vision I have for it in my head is something that is fun to drive and handles well. Members of my family like to go for motorcycle rides, myself included, but not everyone has a motorcycle. I see it as a truck that the non motorcycles riding members of my family can take out with us. I want to keep the original stance/look, but also want it to have the power to throw me in my seat if/when I want it to. Just dont know the best path to that. I agree that, given my expierence leve,l I would like to avoid any major surgery to the firewall or other body panels. As far as transmission I would like to keep it manual. It just doesn't seem right to me to put an automatic transmission in that truck. Maybe I'm an odd ball for thinking that.
My son has a B&M 700r4, but the truck is light enough that you could use a T-5 as long as you don't go crazy on the tires. We have a Ford 9 inch rear end. I don't know enough about the Cornbinder rear end to know if it could stand up to any abuse.
I have owned 4 392 IH V8s (in 3/4 ton trucks and one Scout II), and one failed KB-1 project ( sold it to Terrizer as a pile of parts). Some reason why NOT: 1. Poor fuel mileage - not all that important if you are going to run around in the woods, we ran the interstate at 75 MPH, with the AC running. 2. Probably too heavy for the KB-2 chassis / suspension 3. Prone to vapor lock here in the southwest. The last straw for me was several vapor lock incidents while evacuating from a wildfire. 4. Cam bearing failure, the Babbitt metal flakes off the steel shell - The first symptom is low oil pressure and chunks of Babbitt metal in the oil pan. 5. This engine went out of production in December of 1984.
My only experience with these is a buddy who is a die hard Binder guy. Several pickups and a travelall. All 392s. All run strong. They look neat, but I've never owned one. As for being out of production in 84, that doesn't seem bad. My Y block was out of production long before that. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The biggest deterant for me to keep the original engine is the top speed of the vehicle. I don't really want to be stuck going 45 mph everywhere. (Information from my Grandpa) Interstate speed would be nice. If the higher geared rear-end addresses that. I'm not sure how to figure out what I would need. As I said I have a lot of learning to do.
I saw some talk about putting a 6 cyl motor in it, I put a 200 Ford 6 and C4 auto in one years ago, it fit good, the thing is there is a lot of room so you can put just about anything in there. I saw a Pontiac v8 in one one time. If you plan on going on rides with the motorcycle people, you will have to do something, that truck may do 50 mph at best stock. But I would think hard about keeping it stock, ONLY because it was your Great Grandfather's truck. But do what you want, it's your truck. And when you get to the brakes, they are the same a the 39 Ford brakes, the shoes. wheel cyl are the same as the Ford. Now the repro Ford wheel cylinders (i think for the front) are a little smaller in dia. but they work fine and bolt right up. This is true for the Ford wheel cylinders also I guess they just don't make the stock size anymore, maybe they went to the smaller size to get a little more pedal. Anyway, have fun with it.
If it were mine, I would be looking for a 345 or 392 IH to drop in there, then figure out how to adapt an overdrive tranny and have fun with it. You look like you live in Minnesota farm country (Red River Valley maybe, judging by the lack of terrain???), so there are plenty of IH motors available, Lots of farmers with old grain trucks to use as engine donors. Improve the front and rear suspension with new bushings, shocks, and rubber / wear parts. Toss a 9 inch or Dana 44 / 60 under the rear. End of the day, Figure out what you want the truck to do, I.E. Highway cruiser, tow truck, street/strip, etc. Put a plan together and go for it.
Those trucks have enough room for anything under the hood. While brand loyalty is to be admired, it isn't always practical - I.E. the 277 -392 family. I've seen V8 Studebaker, Lincoln, & Chrysler ''B'' engines, & every 6 you can think of stuck in there. If you're in a hurry, Chev V8 is a ''weekend swap''.
The 392 IH engine may be a torque monster etc.. etc. but it is a HEAVY pig totally unsuited to this relatively light weight KB (IMO). Traction is a challenge with pickups to begin with....adding a 900 lb engine is not in the truck's or owner's interest regarding driveability. Just something to think about. Eye Candy is one thing, but functionality is worth taking into consideration unless you're just going to look at it. Ray
Anything new on this? I have a 48 KB2 to If you stay with the green diamond 214 It's a good tough and torquy engine but it don't like high revs! Cranks like to brake in two... I use the 214 with a older jeep Cherokee rear with 3.55 ratio! Runs highway speeds all day long! It's nearly a bolt in option Newer ones will have disc brakes who wants some... Ford Explorer rears should be the same with only minor changes... I also have a 345 and a 392 which will go in as soon as I got the time left over... The 392 is really a torque monster but also don't like high revs! The 345 is nearly the same a little less torque a little more revs... And nearly 4 inch smaller! The weight isn't the problem for the chassis but more for the handling because of lack traction... I tryed it already but swaped back to original for now because of the German TÜV... 1950ies IH 264 blue or black diamonds are also a nearly bolt in option! And with a little more elbow grease and patience everything else from 200 to 440 from line 4 till V12... Sent from my VOG-L29 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That is one pretty farm truck and looks to be in great shape !! for ease of set up and your skill level etc. Get the suspension/ steering/brakes dialed in. find a tear end that fits hub to hub. then I would do either a 302 ford with a manual t5 or a 350 Chevy with a manual. cheap and easy no major surgery and easy to get parts for when your fooling around. And either engine in stock form with carb, cam and headers will be enough to make you smile when you hit the loud pedal !
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