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MIG weld or bondo/plastic fill seems?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Darren M., May 19, 2006.

  1. Darren M.
    Joined: Apr 6, 2006
    Posts: 150

    Darren M.
    Member

    So I have grand plans for a '69 F100 Ranger. I know I know it's not that old. However, it's what I have to work with and I'm going to make the most of it. Other than getting the 351w rebuilt I have a few body modification planned. Nothing crazy at first, just some minor stuff to smooth out the over all feel of an already great looking truck. IMNSHO. So, the question I have concerns the crease/seem that goes around the cab. I'm not sure on how to fill it, nor do I know what's been used to mate the top w/ the cab itself. My first instict was to just grind it out and bondo the thing, then I thought about kitty hair, moved on to MIG'ing it up and finally to leading. (Ergo the latest lead article on the front page.) Lead is a bit too much for me right now so the toss up is between plastic or MIG.

    Any pro's/con's? The seem covering won't be structural but it will be VERY visible and will go from just behind the door all the way around the rear of the cab to the other side's rear door frame. I've run a few searches and have found a lot of good threads, just nothing that fits EXACTLY. (Note: One of these years I hope to gradute to chopping the top but right now that's not in the cards.)

    Thanks!
    Darren M.

    Old enough to admit I'm ignorant. Could there be a worse scenario?
     
  2. Derek Mitchell
    Joined: Nov 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,817

    Derek Mitchell
    Member

    When in doubt, weld.

    It may not seem structural, but if it flexes, the filler will break and chip.
     
  3. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    I'm havin trouble rememberin' what a '69 Ford cab looks like from behind,
    but if the seam you're talkin about goes all the way around the back of
    the cab, then yes, it's going to flex. These vehicles were designed to
    flex, some what, other wise they would ride like a rock, knock your teeth
    out, and not flex back into shape, when sightly over loaded.
    Both mig welding and leading up those seams would be the best ways to
    go, but if your welding and/or leading skills arn't on their game yet, ya may
    be better off, for now, just filling them with plastic filler.

    Swankey Devils C.C.
     
  4. DocWatson
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 10,280

    DocWatson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Weld (not weald like I first spelt it!!), the smaller the amount of filler there is the longer the car will last.
    Bondo is the unskilled mans best friend.

    Doc
     

  5. ABone312
    Joined: Aug 28, 2003
    Posts: 445

    ABone312
    Member

    If you don't want it to pop out later, weld the seam then body work it.
     
  6. Bugman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 3,483

    Bugman
    Member

    Modern quality(ie. not Bondo brand) fillers are remarkably flexable. If you think you can weld it without warping anything, then go for it. Otherwise, filler is the way to go.
     
  7. Filler WILL crack. It's not for filling seams. Welding will cause you more problems.(warpage with no way to correct it) Lead it or leave it.
     
  8. Matt Kvamme
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 87

    Matt Kvamme
    Member

    I'm sure there are many opinions on how you should do this.. Everyone has there own methods... If it was me I'd weld it, but if you don't think you can weld it up without warping the shit out of it then don't.. You will end up with a mess and a lot more plastic filler than if you just filled it in the first place.. So if you don't weld it use duraglass or kitty hair. Another option is a two part panel bonding adhesive, I have used that stuff on seems in the past and it has worked great. Good Luck
     
  9. Tha Driver
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 903

    Tha Driver
    BANNED
    from S.E. USA

    Ok I don't recall exactly what the *seam* you're talking about looks like either. I *can* promise you one thing: if you bondo it without welding it WILL crack. If the seam is where two peices of metal curve inward, & you just want it smooth (& not flatened out), You can use a good grade of seam sealer. It's flexable & you won't have to weld it. Post a pic (closeup) & I'll give you more info. BTW I've been doing *custom* work for 35+ years...
    ~ Paul
    aka "Tha Driver"

    America - made in China! :-(
     

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