Another paint question...Patch panels all welded in,filler work done,epoxy primer followed by high build,and now finally all block sanded. I know sealer is suggested when there are some last minute repair spots using different color filler and glaze during block sanding creating some(un-uniform colors) that might show through the top coat. --- System is base coat /clear coat and the final top coat is( black) . /My question, can I get by not sealing it since the top boat is black?? - Model A Coupe - Gene in Mn
I put a good coat of base on, let it flash for 35/45 min. That's what I use instead of sealer, I used to use it all the time, didn't have any, did what's mentioned, don't use it anymore, an do hi end paint work(30+ yrs.), But... I'm sure I'll take the"hack" award, my .02 Edit: But I Also have a uniform for the most part 2K primer barrier, Little if any metal other than an edge or two minimal
black sealer will seal the surface, and save you paint base coats. i always do it on anything "important". ..............hard to slip it under after it is painted......
Any color can be semi transparent. After all your hard work to this point don't choke now. A coat of sealer will help ensure uniform color. Go a step further and use checked hiding labels to be certain of color hiding. These extra steps are easy and could boost the finish quality.
Ted, If your final block sanding leaves a absolute perfect flat finish, and you apply a sealer coat do you block that too? I get the feeling the sealer coat is the final factor in how the paint looks. You can wet sand paint and it is PERCECT, buff it and see orange real in the undercoat from different angles. ever get that? Bob
Sealer should not need to be sanded unless the redcoat window is exceeded. Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One coat of properly applied sealer should lay flat and thin....no orange peel. Orange peel visible through color indicates color not applied to hiding.
I do as Hollywood-East does put on a good coat of base down let it set up well, sand out a few nubs then paint. If I'm painting a dark car and I can tell by the formula of the color it's not going to cover well I'll put a coat of black base down first, I do this over well prepared primer with no plastic or bare metal showing.
Poverty Knows... Sealer was really important when we where shooting lacquer, Because of the "bite", catalyzed paint's are more forgiving... First pic pointing is something that will be scuffed an shot, second is something not primed yet, an No I would not shoot paint over that, But I'm Sure you know that...An last but not least the third I painted 18yrs ago, an just came back in my possession, sitting for 3 yrs. In a dirty garage, filthy, an needing a refresh, but will clean up well, an any luck...Lots of luck get done in two weeks an be at rennsport in Monterey.... PS: moderators, it's A 61, Real 356, Not a VW..
i think the sealer lays out smoother than the sanded finish. a good sealer, as said, is a thin coat that covers/hides/seals well.
A paint rep once told me the main reason to use sealer was to cover different substrates. IE half the car in primer and half in paint. Some reps were seal everything, some said it was not always needed.
In reference to the The37kid question, I'm re-sanding the sealer this morning prior to spraying color. I'm compensating for the conditions of the space I'm spraying in and the color of the sealer is best for the finish color. Tinting the surfacer is way more expensive.
Instead of buying primer sealer just thin out high build a little works better then sealer itself Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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