Hi, I am looking to hop up the 223 six in my '58 Custom 300 pretty soon. Part of the package is using an aluminum Y Block flywheel. I understand the flywheels are interchangeable from the Y to the "I". But here is what I am trying to figure out. The aluminum flywheel is drilled for an 11" clutch, like the trucks of the time had. I also understand that the police/taxi setups had 11" clutches. Today I picked up a throwout bearing that will work with my 11" pressure plate. But it WON'T work with my clutch fork without modification. Before I start down that path I wanted to see if anyone has any info, part numbers, etc. regarding the correct throwout bearing and clutch fork for a CAR with 223/Y Block with an 11" clutch. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time -Matt
I installed a 262 truck engine to replace the 223 in my 55 ford wagon. When I did the swap I used the larger truck clutch. I used the original 55 car clutch fork and throwout bearing.
You might better use the original steel flywheel and have it lightened. Aluminum flywheels are too light, usually considered racing only items.
I’m running the aluminum flywheel in a 340cid y block in my 32, and a 320cid in my 55 bird. You’re going to regret it behind a 6 in a car that heavy, and unless there’s no hill higher than 25 ft. in a quarter mile run you’re going to get real good at changing the clutch.
That's definitely crossed my mind. But I was thinking it would be worth a try. Car is about 3,350 lbs/3spd/3.56 gears. Will be running a Mallory YZ dual point, cam will be [email protected]. Aiming for 10:1 static compression. Not getting rid of any parts, so I can put it back to oe clutch/flywheel setup if I hate it.
Do yourself a favor, start with a lightened steel wheel like Rusty suggested. Or even the stock one. Even at 10.1, and you’ll have to go figure the dynamic ratio which is your off idle torque, it’s not going to be pretty or fun.
Flywheels do two things; they store energy and dampen vibration. I ran a aluminum one in the early '70s behind a 454" stroker FE Ford. Lack of stored energy wasn't an issue due to engine size, and the 'instant revs' available like a fuel-injected sprint car motor would scare off almost all stoplight challengers. But under full cry, I swear you could feel every firing pulse in spite of the motor being fully balanced. The car developed rattles quickly, I had to spend time every few months chasing them down. Not always successfully either; the car got worse as time went by. Your six won't have enough torque without the 'stored' energy from the flywheel, you'll have to get really good at running the clutch. And sixes vibrate more than V8s.... Keep in mind that the small-motor class drag racers usually increase the flywheel weight if anything to 'store' more energy for launches.
Lessee .... 10:1 squeeze, all the bottom end ground out of the cam, a 3.56 axle. You may have it running a week before it's apart again - assuming it'll run that long with a Mallory. The average '58 Ford crossmember will have 4 of the 6 bolts going into the rails cross threaded, stripped, or lag bolts. You'll be pretty familiar with the bottom of this one.
The 262 truck engine I installed in my 55 ranch wagon. Has a larger diameter clutch and a much heavier flywheel than the original 223 was. Its a overdrive car and has a 427 geared rear axle.
Ok, getting a consensus on 'no aluminum flywheel'. Maybe I should reconsider then...thanks for all the input. I appreciate it.
But, above comment aside, I am betting you are going to try it just the same...and see what happens. Right? Not that I think there is anything wrong with that....... Ray
Save the aluminum flywheel for a "Bug" type dragster build with a multi carbed six banger. Just a thought. -Dave
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