So I need to replace my trashed rear upper balljoint on my ‘63 deville. After my long depressing internet search, I found they go for $140-180!! So I read somewhere a screw in balljoint from a mid 70’s dodge 1/2 ton will work if you make a plate with the 4 bolt holes to mount it. Anyone heard of this or have a easier/better solution? Thanks
Have you also been assured, or checked to see, that the Dodge ball joint stud has the correct taper and length to match the Cadillac ball joint specs? If that is the same you are halfway home. As for the term “screw in” balljoint....MOPAR used that design in various models and if the proposed replacement is of that design, the adapter plate would be more than just a “plate with four holes” to bolt in in. It would also have have a threaded insert welded into it. That insert is tubular or cylindrical in shape and it’s inner diameter has threads matching the ball joint body to allow it to “screw in”. This style of ball joint is widely used in dirt track racing and street rod fabricated independent front suspensions. Speedway might be a source for the size you would need. You may already know much or all of this already, so if I am going over already plowed ground, forgive me, i’m just trying cover all the bases that come to mind. I like “improvisation” to solve problems and, in general, the idea has merit. On the other hand, buying the Dodge ball joint, the threaded insert and making, or having someone make, a suitable plate and welding it to the insert, drilling holes, etc., all costs time and money. The price you quoted for the correct replacement part may not seem so expensive by the time you add it all up. Ray
I agree that the going price for some of the early 60's ball joints are crazy. I would not fabricate something to replace them. The time, cost to fab, and questionable quality of repair make the price seem not as bad. Ball joints usually are only replaced once in the lifetime of the car.
I'm confused, where exactly is a REAR Upper ball joint located? I have only seen front upper or front lower ball joints on rear wheel drive solid axle cars.
It is in the rear suspension. The rear axle has two locating arms on the outer ends of the housing and the upper link is, basically, similar to a front end 'A' arm....the wide end anchored to a crossmember above and a little forward of the axle, the A arm extending to over the center section and the ball joint connected to a fitting on the center section. The triangular shaped (A arm) serves as both a third link and as a track or Panhard bar in it's function. It was introduced on, I believe, the '57 Cadillac and also used by Pontiac/Chevy around '58/'60 era but as I recall soon fell out of favor on those vehicles. I was surprised to see the OP say his '63 Caddy has that 'feature' Ray
I know 64's still use the "3 link" setup. And as said already I would NOT fabricate that part, pay the price for the correct safe part.
Adapter for the press in to threaded are available. could easily make a plate to weld it to. https://pitstopusa.com/c-134413-sus...-accessories-ball-joint-adapter-bushings.html
Those adaptors are made to fit the mid size ball joints, the truck uses the large ball joint which is what he implies fits. A search on that auction site for a RP 10450 ball joint, there is a place that has them for 133.95 + 13.95 S&H. It appears that Rare Parts is the only company making them and I couldn't find any old Moog or TRW part numbers on them.
If it’s a valid and safe repair look into the price for all parts involved in doing the “ retro fit” ball joint Factor in your time, And lastly nothing is easy or a “ bolt in” truly , When you deviate from stock. $190 for a ball joint while pricey is not bank breaking Some front wheel drive econo box appliances have 800 plus lower control arms with the ball joint being non serviceable.
Thanks for the explanation Hnstray, I have only seen the 60's GM 4 link rear end set up and was not aware a 3 link as you described existed. Learn something new on the Hamb every day!
All very valid points and considerations. I figure I’ll replace it once and be done for the rest of the time I own the car. But of course I then think, well there has to be a cheaper way if I have to do it again. I have a mill and lathe so making a mounting plate is easy, but like you said, time. Buying a bolt it replacement seems too easy, I’m used to fighting every part I’m trying to get in. Haha Thanks for the replies.
Here’s a pick for those who haven’t dealt with one. Even CaddyDaddy has them for $132, and (they usually up charge like twice what others do). That’s short money really, compared to everything else. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Worked on many a Caddy of the era, never ran across one of those. That would be a bad spot to do any modifications unless someone has an easy way out (done it before..). Bite the bullet, buy the expen$ive part.
Got the old one out, rivots drilled out and a new one on the way from caddy daddy! $130 ain’t bad. When I first saw $190 from OPGI I about shit myself...
Shopping around on chassis parts almost always brings up a better price unless you just lucked onto the best price to start with. As many cars as I was under in the years I did chassis and brake work I don't remember seeing that setup.
I too have learnt something today....had never seen a pic nor heard of a "rear upper balljoint"..........looking at the pic it seems to be basically the same or similar as various GM mid/late 60's front upper balljoints..........if the taper was the same how close would these B/j's go to fitting?............but as others have said, $130-190.00 for a bolt in replacement doesn't seem too bad really..............andyd
In my home, Instead of a heart defibrillator, I leave a window on a computer open to CaddyDaddy’s online catalog. If my heart ever stops, I’ve instructed my wife to read me some prices for common parts for my old Caddy. The shock, in theory, should be able to start my heart beating again. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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