TECH: Clutch Cable Installation w/Pics

Just wanted to thank D-Russ for this thread. It helped me sort out the clutch issues with my Pontiac 347/BW T85 in my 21T Modified. I made up a bracket similar to the one in his pictures using 30mm x 6mm mild steel strap. My bracket also mounts the circle track shifters. I made up a trial cable using some old Citroen 2CV outers and an inner from a lawnmower. I used a 2CV clutch cable housing that can be seen on the firewall of the 27T cowl.

The cable set up worked great until I used it too many times and it ripped the soldered nipple off. No matter, it was only to get the dimensions right and I'm having a proper swaged cable made up by a local control cable specialist. I might also need to alter the angle of the cable holder on the gearbox slightly but other than that it's all working well.

 

I'm putting a Tremec TR-4250 trans in my '57 Chrysler. I'm using the Wilcap 392-302 adapter to use a Ford-spec bellhousing and cable operated clutch behind the 392. I modified a '57 Plymouth three-pedal assembly to use in the car with an aftermarket firewall adjustable Fox-body Mustang clutch cable. I'm hoping all the planning, measuring, and scheming I did in advance will pay off with a smooth and easy swap. What's funny is, the only thing that looks like it might be an issue are those massive Hemi valve covers. I think I have 1/2" of clearance or less at that point, hopefully I still have it with new mounts. I'll take some pics of it all this weekend.

 

Did you say clearance?

 

Packaging these cars is a big headache. I had to grind the rear outside corner off the driver's side Offy valve cover because it was just too close to the firewall mounted brake master cylinder.

 

I know it has been a while since your cable post. I am needing to adapt a Muncie 4 speed behind a 327 in a old school 1939 Ford. It has the zbar and 1940 petals. Printer out this thread - great info to adapt a cable clutch. Any ideas come to mind - please respond. Thanks again for the sharing of info !!

 

Here's how mine turned out on a TCI chassis with a S-10 T-5

 

Wow, that looks great! looks like you've improved a great deal on the idea! I wish I had used original Ford pedals – they look sooo much better. Thanks for adding pictures of your set up – I'm sure it will help someone in the future. Best of luck to you.

 

Swapped the cable stop for a swivelling stop that automatically sets itself at the correct angle to the clutch release arm. The guys at North West Control Cables have made me a heavy duty adjustable clutch cable so it will all come together tomorrow.

 

Tell me what pedals bracket and parts are shown here, did you fab it all up or buy some part and modify it?
It looks nice and compact and clean!!!
Looking for ideas!!!
FYI for people reading cable can be purchase in any length or configuration search online for push pull cables and the ends with the double nut to hook into the brackets are called bulkhead ends. Cable like these are cheap we buy them for all kinds of farm projects!!
Have used cccables.com with good luck

 

If you click on "My First Model A Build" in my signature it is my build thread with more pics and more info.
Thanks for the good words.

 

I had a friend shear and bend some 3/16" to build the pedal assembly. The only parts that I used that I did not fab were two '40 Ford brake pedals and a '40 Ford brake pedal return spring. I tack welded everything together and took it all to another friend and he tig welded it. I am also going to use '40 Ford rubber pedal bumpers to close the holes in the toe board. Hope this helps

 

Yes it does, and I read your two threads. Lots of good info!!! Thanks again

 

D-Russ Thank you for the clutch cable thread. It is a good system.

 

I found a truck shop that had equipment to shorten a cable..

 

How long is the cable from eye hole to eye hole of the heim joints and how long is the sheath from end to end and size of heim joints thanks Carl awesome set up im ordering a cable for my t roadster from control cables in California just need sizes

 

I'll do some measuring and get back to you.

 

I had threaded adjusters put on both ends of the cable and set it up with plenty of bare cable length with the entire cable length just slightly over long. This meant that I could get it close enough and then adjust to the ideal length by clipping off the nipple and then having a new one swaged on. This was done for free by the cable makers. It's easier to make a long cable shorter than lengthen a short one.

 

Sorry for the down time.
All my linked images in this thread originally hosted by PhotoSuckIt have been relinked to the HAMB servers.

 

Thank you for restoring the photos. I had this bookmarked and came back to check it out only to find the photos gutted out. This is an excellent tech article and an excellent way to rig up a clutch..

 

Sorry for dredging up an old thread, but I just stumbled on this thread while trying to figure out what to do with pedals and linkages for my Packard straight 8/T5 set- up in my roadster pick up.

I'm thinking a clutch cable is the way to go

Thanks all
Bobby

 

Anybody now the temp ratings of these push/pull cables? Just curious when routing them around header collectors and exhaust pipe on a Ford application.

Thanks

 

Meant to say “know”

 

Glad I found this. An elegant solution to a real problem. Thanks.

 

How did I not see this when I was fumbling about trying to 'design' my hydraulic system on my 40! Ive got a fair bit of $ in it now, so I'll see how it does, but I'm ordering a Brizio cable....just in case..

 

You should be able to find an industrial supply house relatively near you that could make them up custom to fit your needs. Where we used to live we had one (city population 300k+) where I would get them made for our hydraulic crane controls. Just have to figure out end configurations and length and away ya go.

 

I have used Cable Craft for the last 3 projects they were a life saver! There are others on the web.
Control Cable Assemblies: Cablecraft Pull-Only and Push-Pull Cables